Insulating garage doors

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Kirk

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Kirk
My garage is unbearably hot! There is an air conditioned room above it, and it is insulated on all exterior walls except the doors themselves. So I'm fairly certain the problem is the lack of insulation on the doors.

What suggestions do you have for insulating the garage doors?

Searching through the archives, I can see that this question has come up before, but I'm interested in hearing how last year's solutions are holding up now.

Thanks!

kirk
 

scsmith42

New User
Scott Smith
Kirk, my new shop has a couple of sectional roll-up doors that have an R value of 17, and are designed for a 100mph wind loading. They are very high quality doors.

Both doors (a 10' wide x 12' tall, and a 12' wide x 14' tall), in a carriage house style were around 4K installed (no openers though).

I can send you the installation companys contact info, if you're interested.

Scott
 

max_in_graham

New User
Max
Kirk,

This is a real common issue for guys building home recording studios... albeit the question is usually in regards to sound proofing, but thermal issues are also necessary to deal with.

I'm sure a lot of folks use the typical blue styrofoam and try to snug fit the stuff in the panels. The only problem is that because the styrofoam is non-porous, and a low R value (R-3 to R5/sheet) it has a real tendency to sweat on the metal door... eventually rusting it.

One of the typical insulating materials I see used a lot for metal garage doors, is mineral wool. It's typically used to insulate in super hot conditions... like around furnaces and steam pipes. So, it can easily handle a sun baked garage door.

By using mineral wool, or it's somewhat more expensive cousin, Owen-Corning 703 (rigid fiberglass panels), you'll get an added benefit of increased sound isolation. This will go both ways... sound getting out and sound getting in. It won't be sound proof, but there will be a significant reduction in that metal door sound.

You can get mineral wool and OC-703 several different thicknesses; 1", 2" 3" etc., and the size is usually 2'x4'.

It's not light though. Both products weigh in at about 3lbs/cu ft. So, you may want to calculate the weight you'll be adding to the door, and verify that it can be re-tensioned to still work. (It's not always a problem, but better to be safe than sad and mad, right?)

Cut it to a snug fit in the panels.

Some folks wrap burlap or other cheap breathable material around the face and edges of the mineral wool. Since your door will be opening as a functional door, you want to do this to trap the mineral wool fibers, and keep them from flying around.

If nothing else, I'd wrap the ends with material to keep the fibers from flying around. Then put something like a 1/4" luan over the top of that, and screw the luan to the edges of the door panels. You'll wanna' leave a bit of a gap between the panels, and/or cut the luan on something like a 30-45 angle so it doesn't bind when you open the door.

Mineral wool is made from slag in the metal smelting process, so it's actually pretty heavy in the itch factor. As much of the stuff I used here, I really recommend long sleeves, gloves, a dust mask and safety goggles.

It easily cuts with a box knife and because it's semi-rigid, it'll slide right in the door panels and sit there.

The best part of using mineral wool is the cost. This stuff is dirt cheap. I got mine from http://www.spi-co.com/

I got my stock from Reid in the Greensboro office... Great guy to work with.

Raleigh, NC
1513 Sunrise Avenue
Raleigh, North Carolina 27608
919-828-7102
919-828-1633 FAX
raleigh@spi-co.com

Charlotte, NC
Woodland III
3300-A Woodpark Blvd.
Charlotte, North Carolina 28206
704-598-9899
704-921-2950 FAX
charlotte@spi-co.com

Midland, NC -- Presnell Insulation
4297 Hwy. 24/27 East
P.O. Box 169
Midland, North Carolina 28107
704-888-4937
704-888-1312 FAX
800-438-5126
midland@spi-co.com

Wilmington, NC
216 Old Dairy Road
P.O. Box 10538 (28404-0538 )
Wilmington, North Carolina 28405
910-799-8444
910-799-8509 FAX
wilmington@spi-co.com

Greensboro, NC
207-A Creek Ridge Road
Greensboro, North Carolina 27406
336-691-0008
336-691-0010 FAX
greensboro@spi-co.com
 

Tarhead

Mark
Corporate Member

Joe Scharle

New User
Joe
You could build a curtain wall and let the batts drape against the doors. But I'd look into upgrading to better doors in the long run.
 

sediener

New User
Steve
Over a year ago I insulated my double wide overhead door. With the dearth of suppliers out here in rural VA I ended up using a sandwich of 3/4" foam board and 3/4" iso panels faced with foil. The foil boards face the inside of the metal door and the pink foam faces the shop. This method seems to be working. :wsmile:

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showphoto.php?photo=19166&ppuser=1941


Did the same here except with 3/4 blue foam and 1/2" foil styro... works great, even with a South facing door the garage is significantly more comfortable year round. The window A/C unit helps too. Even after killing the A/C when I was done this afternoon, it stayed resonable (<80) for the rest of the day.

- Steve
 

thrytis

New User
Eric
I insulated my door with a 1/2" layer of EPS insulation and a 1" of Thermax, wedged in the channels of the door. The Thermax is rated for exposure, which i was told by a county inspector was required despite it just being a garage door (though another person in the county said he was told just being foil faced was acceptable). I used no adhesive, but i did use foil tape on the edges (to seal gaps, not hold it in place). The insulation has stayed securely in place and the garage stays cool enough to work in without air conditioning. I calculated that i added roughly 25 lbs of weight to the door. I did get springs replaced to rebalance the door, which was the most expensive part of the project.

I can't help on finding Thermax though. I used some left over pieces my brother had, who got them directly from a Dow representative he works with.

 
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