How to price work - again

[cskipper]

Now that I have started scrolling baskets and puzzles, and actually selling some pieces, I need to decide on a method for pricing them. As we've said before, the pricing problem with scroll work is the labor. I take too many hours sanding (pre-finish and during the finishing process) because I really don't want to feel rough or sharp edges. Another problem is finishing the baskets - there are so many curves/edges that I either need to dunk them (can you do this with any type of finish?) or spray it. I am scrolling in the spare bedroom so I cannot spray a finish when it's cold outside.

I want to set up a web page so the pricing issue needs to consider advertising, shipping.... Somewhere I read that at the end of a sale you have to feel good enough about the sale to sleep at night. Sometimes I think this would make my price too high to have anything sell.

Here are my questions:

1. What "formula" do you use to price your work?

2. How do you sand puzzles(without pictures) and baskets/bowls?

3. How do you finish your baskets/bowls?

 

[PChristy]

Cathy, first Happy New Year. Pricing is one of the hardest things I face with the things that I do - The last piece I sold the lady jumped right on it and it surprised me that she would give me that much for it - I had alot of man hours in it - with the framing material and going to get all of it(gas,time,etc) I still felt like I did not price it high enough. Another lady there seen the piece and wanted me to do a fishing scene for her husband. My wife told her what the price would be and she turned it down said it was to high - so I figure that no matter what you price your work at it will not be the right price for everyone - I therefore price my work at what I am comfortable with charging and leave it at that - might be why I still have a few things hanging on my wall - Good luck on the pricing - if you can figure a good method please share

 

[Sealeveler]

Check your post at Scroll Saw ww & crafts.
Tony

 

[cskipper]

Check your post at Scroll Saw ww & crafts.
Tony

I looked for that thread this morning. If it had been a snake it would have bitten me - lol! Thanks for directing me to that info.

 

[sawman101]

Happy New Year Cathy. I'm not very good at pricing myself, but simply try to arrive at a price that makes me feel satisfied about my labor and the materials used. Many of the pieces you are making and offering are, after all, art; certain pieces will probably appreciate in value after we are dead.:wconfused:
I finish many pieces by flooding with Danish Oil. You can dip it or brush it, let it dry for 30 minutes, then flood it again. Allow the 2nd coat try dry for about 20 mins. then wipe off the excess, then allow the piece to dry. Usually, after 72 hours of drying time, you can spray polyurethane over the oil finish. This has worked well for me. If I want a faster finish, I spray the piece with Bulls Eye Shellac then after an hours drying time, I spray polyurethane, or lacquer over the shellac. Spraying inside your home you wouldn't want to use lacquer; its highly volatile so therefore, there is a very strong odor.

I haven't really gotten into puzzles, but I use a mop sander on many of the pieces of fretwork. You might try assembling the puzzle with the good side down, placing wide blue painters tape over the whole surface, then turning it over and sanding it with a hand sander. The tape will hold it all together while you sand. The Sand Flea has been highly recommended to me for the type of work we do. Wish I could afford one.

May 2011 be the year you become filthy rich from selling your work;:wwink: may you enjoy good health and happiness. Happy sawdusting.:saw:

 

[cskipper]

Happy New Year Cathy. I'm not very good at pricing myself, but simply try to arrive at a price that makes me feel satisfied about my labor and the materials used. Many of the pieces you are making and offering are, after all, art; certain pieces will probably appreciate in value after we are dead.:wconfused:
I finish many pieces by flooding with Danish Oil. You can dip it or brush it, let it dry for 30 minutes, then flood it again. Allow the 2nd coat try dry for about 20 mins. then wipe off the excess, then allow the piece to dry. Usually, after 72 hours of drying time, you can spray polyurethane over the oil finish. This has worked well for me. If I want a faster finish, I spray the piece with Bulls Eye Shellac then after an hours drying time, I spray polyurethane, or lacquer over the shellac. Spraying inside your home you wouldn't want to use lacquer; its highly volatile so therefore, there is a very strong odor.

I haven't really gotten into puzzles, but I use a mop sander on many of the pieces of fretwork. You might try assembling the puzzle with the good side down, placing wide blue painters tape over the whole surface, then turning it over and sanding it with a hand sander. The tape will hold it all together while you sand. The Sand Flea has been highly recommended to me for the type of work we do. Wish I could afford one.

May 2011 be the year you become filthy rich from selling your work;:wwink: may you enjoy good health and happiness. Happy sawdusting.:saw:

I used Danish oil for a long time, but it takes soooo long for the odor to go away. I hadn't thought about sealing it with spray poly.... I wish you the very best in the coming year! I don't need to be filthy rich, just enough to not have to get a real job.