How do I fix this @#&*% mistake

[DaveO]

I have been making a table based on this design out of QSWO.

This is how far I have got.

My mistake was made when I cut out the drawer opening and got a little overzealous on it's height. I don't think that I left enough on the bottom of the apron to cut out the decorative detail on the original. Beneath the drawer opening is only 1". Remaking the aprons isn't an option, I don't want to get any more wood. Here are the options I think I have:

1. Live with it an call it an original DaveO piece vs. a Greene & Greene styled table, probably leave out the matching detail on the stretchers also.

2. Cut the detail out and leave only a 1/2" under the drawer opening.

3. As D L suggested, but I am having trouble picturing, adding the detail in a contrasting wood not trying to hide the fact that it was added. Like glue on pieces of Walnut cut in the shape of the original detail.

4. Glue the detail on out of QSWO and hope for a good grain match.

I appreciate any advice y'all can offer. I've been tossing this around in my head all week unable to come with a resolution, waiting for my weekend in the shop to do something.
Dave

 

[walnutjerry]

Dave--------I think I would opt to glue the pieces on out of white oak. If you do not have any more I will send you some.

Jerry

 

[DaveO]

Thanks, I have enough to make some glue on pieces, just not enough for new aprons all the way around.
My biggest concern with that solution is that (you really can't see it in the pic) the front apron has very intense ray fleck figure. I am afraid that any glued on piece will look like a glued on piece, because I don't think I'll be able to match the grain and flow of the fleck.
That is the reason why D L suggested using some other wood, basically if you can't hide it well enough, emphasize it. Like the V groove on T & G or ship-lapped case backs. But I can't picture how to work with D L's suggestion and keep in the G&G style of simple and functional.
Dave

 

[Canuck]

DaveO,

(Now remember I am just a newbie!) I think that option 4 would work ok. As far as grain match is concerned, the "add-on" really won't have to to be that wide, would it? About another 1 1/2" or so? Most of it will be cut away to form the detail, right? Worth a try. If it looks bad - not much stock wasted!

I think your design would look fine too!

Wayne

 

[D L Ames]

3. As D L suggested, but I am having trouble picturing, adding the detail in a contrasting wood not trying to hide the fact that it was added. Like glue on pieces of Walnut cut in the shape of the original detail.

I appreciate any advice y'all can offer. I've been tossing this around in my head all week unable to come with a resolution, waiting for my weekend in the shop to do something.
Dave

Actually what I suggested was to use a piece of QSWO stock slightly thicker than your front apron and let it stand proud of the front face of the apron. If your front apron is 3/4" then use a piece of 7/8" stock and let it stand proud by 1/8".

I think if I was to use a piece of contrasting wood I would use a thin piece 1/4" with the edge rounded over or chamfered to form a bead, then add an additional piece of 3/4" QSWO below that with your profile cut in it.

Did that clear the mud at all?

D L

 

[Gillie]

:

1. Live with it an call it an original DaveO piece vs. a Greene & Greene styled table, probably leave out the matching detail on the stretchers also.

2. Cut the detail out and leave only a 1/2" under the drawer opening.

3. As D L suggested, but I am having trouble picturing, adding the detail in a contrasting wood not trying to hide the fact that it was added. Like glue on pieces of Walnut cut in the shape of the original detail.

4. Glue the detail on out of QSWO and hope for a good grain match.

I appreciate any advice y'all can offer. I've been tossing this around in my head all week unable to come with a resolution, waiting for my weekend in the shop to do something.
Dave

I'd like what is behind door number 4, Bob

If you're careful on your selection of the added on piece, nobody will ever know (except a bunch of NC woodworkers and nobody would believe them any way).

 

[Monty]

Yep, glue on a piece. If you get a good match, cool. If you can't, then set it proud a little like DL suggested, or cut a shallow saw kerf rabbet in the edge before you glue it on -- that'll make a little shadow line.

 

[clowman]

Are you going to do any of the inlay work as in the original? If so, I'd add on the pieces made of the same type of inlay wood. If not, then I'd let it stand proud.

 

[DaveO]

I think that I will try the glue on method with some QSWO stock. At only at 1/2-3/4" tall, the grain match shouldn't be too noticeable.
D L, sorry I didn't exactly understand what you were try to explain to me. It was late and all I had in my head was Garret Hack's inlay work and contrasting woods.

Thanks to everyone for the advice, I'll try to have some progress pics to post by Sunday :eusa_pray

Dave

 

[McRabbet]

I would suggest adding the QSWO to make the lowered apron and then celebrate shape of the stretchers along the glue line and below the drawer with an 1/8" round nose router bit to create a reveal/shadow line. I think it would be very effective.

BTW, did you taper the legs? Looks like the finished version has tapered legs and yours does not...

Rob

 

[MarvinWatkins]

Hey Dave,

My two cents...

If adding on some QSWO doesn't get the match you want, you might consider something like DL had mentioned. However, I have one further twist to it.

I just attended a TWA workshop with Garret Hack. One of the details he likes to include in a lot of his work is an ebony cockbead, especially around drawer fronts.

What if you added a cockbead-like feature (...not in ebony...) followed by the details beneath and finished the bead or the bead and detail the same as you contrasting wooden pins? The beads could go the full width or simply far enough in on each side to incorporate the detail.

It would provide the detail and another similar feature to those already in the piece. (Unfortunately, I do not know if this flies in the face of the Greene & Greene style.)

Like I said, just my two cents...

 

[jeff...]

My opinion, forget the decorative detail on the apron, it looks good as it is and besides no one will know of your mistake but you and ofcourse us (only because you told us).

But then again if you "must" do the decorative detail, consider option 4 and make sure you stick a couple dowels in.

 

[DaveO]

I would suggest adding the QSWO to make the lowered apron and then celebrate shape of the stretchers along the glue line and below the drawer with an 1/8" round nose router bit to create a reveal/shadow line. I think it would be very effective.

BTW, did you taper the legs? Looks like the finished version has tapered legs and yours does not...

Rob

Are you suggesting adding a cockbead like strip that will go between the now straight bottom of the apron and the glued on curved detail?

I haven't tapered the legs, I am not sure the original has tapered legs. G&G didn't taper their legs as a norm. But I do agree they do look to be slightly tapered in the picture of the original I am trying to duplicate.
That will be another question for another thread..to taper or not to taper, that will be the question :lol: :lol:

Dave

 

[D L Ames]

Dave, not sure if this will help but here is a pic in an attempt to help explain it better.

D L

 

[Grgramps]

Dave, Your table has aprons that appear the same width, both front and side. If you add wood to the bottom of the apron it will be wider unless you go around to all of the aprons to make them the same.

Have you considered adding a piece to the bottom of the drawer opening, thus making the opening the size that you should have made it? A glue line at that location might be hidden by the drawer face and the resulting drawer face could be the same size as the original.

I suppose there wouldn't be much support for the piece you add after making the cutout in the lower edge of the apron, so that might call for a pocket hole screw at each end of the insert,

Hope this helps.
Roy

 

[D L Ames]

Dave, I was just looking at the original G&G pic and noticed that the detail on the front stretcher is found on the back and side stretchers as well. Do you think the side and back aprons are supposed to have the same detail like the one you are trying to create on the front apron?

D L

 

[McRabbet]

Are you suggesting adding a cockbead like strip that will go between the now straight bottom of the apron and the glued on curved detail?
Dave

No, I was suggesting a groove that would parallel the top surface of the stretcher below the apron. Another way of looking at it would be that it would be like a trace the shape of the stretcher onto the apron.

Rob

 

[DaveO]

Dave, I was just looking at the original G&G pic and noticed that the detail on the front stretcher is found on the back and side stretchers as well. Do you think the side and back aprons are supposed to have the same detail like the one you are trying to create on the front apron?

D L

Yes what ever I do will be done on the front, back and both sides.
Dave

 

[DaveO]

No, I was suggesting a groove that would parallel the top surface of the stretcher below the apron. Another way of looking at it would be that it would be like a trace the shape of the stretcher onto the apron.

Rob

I think that I understand you now. I like the idea.
Dave

 

[Monty]

DL, looks like you got your CAD figured out! ;-)