Going through a lot of jigsaw blades

[CarvedTones]

I got the awesome Bosch jigsaw for Christmas and I have been very pleased with it as far as what it will cut, which is pretty much anything/everything I have tried to cut including some really thick pieces. I have cut up to about 9" by coming from both sides. But I am breaking a lot of blades. I have tried changing the orbital settings and backing off on the speed and I still break them fairly often. Mostly I have been using the Bosch brand. Any advise? Are there some better blades? I would pay more up front for ones that will last longer. The broken blades are generally really hot to the touch.

 

[cskipper]

The only time we have had problems with the Bosch blades is when we are forcing the saw, either by trying to cut faster when cutting straight or when making a turn/angled cut.

 

[CarvedTones]

"Forcing" is a tough thing to gauge. It's true that I have never been accused of babying my tools, but I haven't had this sort of trouble before. I wore out blades on my little Skil. OTOH, it would bog down if I pushed too hard. The Bosch doesn't do that. It seems simple to back off and cut slow, but what is the point of getting the power if you can't use it? Are there HSS jigsaw blades?

EDIT - In the interest of full disclosure, I must confess I also go through scrollsaw blades at what seems a high rate, but I scroll thick hardwoods a lot.

 

[zapdafish]

I was sort of having the same problem when cutting curves and such. I wasn't breaking blades but was getting burn marks on one side. After i started using relief cuts the problem lessened a great deal. Basically straight cuts from the edge of the piece to the outline I am following so as I cut, pieces start to fall off so there is nothing pressing against the blade. The tighter the curve, the more relief cuts I use. I think its a technique bandsaw users use too as the cut curvey stuff.

 

[CarvedTones]

Are there HSS jigsaw blades?

Answering my own question, it looks like Bosch makes HSS for cutting metal with the largest and most aggressive blade being about 3.5" with 10 TPI. The aggressive wood blades are all high carbon steel (HCS in their designation). I just found they 7" 6TPI bad boys listed (in HCS). I am sorely tempted, but worry about their lifespan.

 

[Trent Mason]

Andy,

To the best of my knowledge, jigsaw blades and sawzall blades are pretty similar. They're cheap, replaceable, and they break a lot. All you can really do is try not to force them as much, but inevitably, they are going to break. Relief cuts may help, that would be one thing to try. It definitely would lessen the stress on the blades for having to make curves, etc, however, making relief cuts takes a decent amount of time in itself.

 

[Tarhead]

Andy,
Have you tried Decaf?:wsmile:
Seriously...are you heating up the blades? Blue marks where they meet the guides? If so you may need to make an adjustment. Not at home now but I think there is a way to do this.

 

[CarvedTones]

Andy,
Have you tried Decaf?:wsmile:
Seriously...are you heating up the blades? Blue marks where they meet the guides? If so you may need to make an adjustment. Not at home now but I think there is a way to do this.

Decaf? That stuff won't wake you up unless you pour it in your shoes. :elvis:

Yes, the blades get hot and have blue marks.

I am pushing the envelope with what you can do with a jigsaw; I often use it like a miniature Lucas mill to cut spindle blanks out of log splits. But it can handle that sort of work (at least the motor can).

 

[Mt. Gomer]

I'd suggest slowing down feed rate and/or blade speed. Might take you a few extra seconds per cut but it should help keep the blades from overheating.

 

[Mike Davis]

Why don't you load up the trailer with logs and visit someone with a big band saw, cut up your blanks and take it easy on the Bosch? :dontknow: :icon_scra :widea: ccasion1

 

[Canuck]

Andy.

I have totally switched to using Bosch Extra Clean wood cutting blades in my Bosch barrel grip.

You actually do get a very clean cut (no splintering) and haven't managed to break a single blade yet!:icon_thum:icon_thum:icon_thum

Our own Tom Hintz did a review of the blades here.............

http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/bt308brvu.html

I would recommend you give them a shot.

(For really thick rough cuts, I usually pull out my Ridgid saws-all and tear into it. I use about a 7 inch limb trimming blade in it for this type of rough cut.)

Wayne

 

[CarvedTones]

Wayne,

I have broken a few of those. They do leave a very nice surface on ply and 4/4, but at 8/4 and beyond I get maybe 5 linear feet out of one.

Mike,

I agonzied a bit over this decision:
http://ncwoodworker.net/forums/f31/heavy-duty-jig-saws-26929/
as I don't have room in the shop or budget for a big BS right now. I do take wood out for a visit sometimes and probably will continue to from time to time, but what has been working best for me is to split short logs and seal them and only cut a few spindle blanks at a time to round and shelve. I don't have any really specific numbers to back this up, but I seem to get far more loss from checks and cracks in stock I have sliced up but not turned down than I do in the log splits or rounded blanks.

 

[FredP]

I never use a jig saw for thick stock. the reason is the jigsaw only has about a 3/4" stroke. when you cut thicker stock the sawdust doesnt exit the cut. this builds 7up heat and breaks blades. that is why a bandsaw cuts so much better. the gullets need to be clear to get a clean cut without getting hot. Oh and um...... slow down some. let the blade have time to do it's job.:icon_thum

 

[Trent Mason]

Andy, not sure why I didn't think of this earlier, but you're more than welcome to use my BS if you want. My blade stinks, but if you make some relief cuts, it'll be a lot easier than using a jig saw. :thumbs_up:thumbs_up

 

[CaptnA]

Andy,
I've used Lenox blades for hacksaws and recip saws for years and know of no better brand. I've cut up a lot of cars using two saws side by side with different blades to compare and as long as Lenox makes them, I'll keep buying them.
My recip saw with a Lenox blade makes short work of a railroad tie. Lenox also make jigsaw blades and they should be worth a try.

 

[CarvedTones]

Andy, not sure why I didn't think of this earlier, but you're more than welcome to use my bandsaw if you want. My blade stinks, but if you make some relief cuts, it'll be a lot easier than using a jig saw. :thumbs_up:thumbs_up

Trent,

I may take you up on that yet again. It's actually more straight cuts, but that horrible groaning noise the saw made when I tried to cut that 1" (or was it 1'? I always get those confused :wrolleyes thick chunk of poplar gave me pause about borrowing time to cut fresh logs. But maybe I should swing by. I have some skinnier (I promise) poplar and the mystery wood from down the street from you. I have a bunch of sweetgum sealed and unsplit that I nned to get motivated about splitting soon. You would probably be more excited about cutting that - lots of nice bowl blanks in there and many of them would not follow me home (nor will some blanks out of other stuff, of course).

 

[merrill77]

I may take you up on that yet again. It's actually more straight cuts, but that horrible groaning noise the saw made when I tried to cut that 1" (or was it 1'? I always get those confused :wrolleyes thick chunk of poplar gave me pause about borrowing time to cut fresh logs.

Andy, if you make it up to the north side of Raleigh, you're welcome to give it a go on my bandsaw, as well. I've only got a 10" capacity (vertical), but I've currently got a 1" carbide resaw blade on it - it does pretty well on the thick stuff.

Chris

 

[James Davis]

What Fred said...you need to get the saw dust out of the cut in order for the blade to have somewhere for the next batch of sawdust to go. If it builds up in the kerf, then it generates heat and heat is bad for your blade. Try cutting with a handsaw and make short strokes and see the difference when you move the blade enough for the teeth to travel all the way through the work piece. Same thing with your jig saw. The blade needs to clear the dust.

James

 

[CarvedTones]

I wrote Bosch and here was their reply:

We'd recommend that T344DF. This is a Bi-Metal blade for hardwood. It provides fast cuts in hard wood, it's break resistant and durable. Will cut 1/4"-4" thickness.

http://www.amazon.com/BOSCH-T344DF-Bi-Metal-Bosch-Jigsaw/dp/B000VC5V1U

Guess I need to drop Father's Day hints; they are a little pricier than the plain carbon steel...

 

[JackLeg]

I never use a jig saw for thick stock. the reason is the jigsaw only has about a 3/4" stroke. when you cut thicker stock the sawdust doesnt exit the cut. this builds 7up heat and breaks blades. that is why a bandsaw cuts so much better. the gullets need to be clear to get a clean cut without getting hot. Oh and um...... slow down some. let the blade have time to do it's job.:icon_thum

AMEN, Fredp! :icon_thumWhen I read 8/4 and above, I thought that might be contributing to the problem. Also, Bosch makes several types of wood cutting blades, as does Lennox. Be sure you are matched to the task! Good luck!