Glass Thickness Question

[Littlejon]

OK, so I got an idea for a shadow box for displaying my oldest son's Cub Scout badges, etc. I know what I want to make and what to make it of, but I have never used glass in a project before and don't know what size router bit to use or if a tablesaw blade width would give me enough "play". What I am planning is glass about the same thickness as picture frame glass, which I always assumed as about 1/8" thick. This box will require the glass be put in at assembly, with the back being removeable but not the glass.

Any tips on this? I was thinking about a saw blade width might do the trick, but wasn't sure.

Thanks in advance.

 

[NCPete]

There is an article in the most recent issue of American Woodworker (?) about glass thickness and use. 1/8 might do the trick, and I think you could get away with either running a full kerf blade through the cut twice, moving the fence 1/16 after the first cut, or using the outside cutter of a dado set...

 

[DavidF]

If the light box is going to be horizontal as opposed to wall mount then maybe thicker glass or acrylic maybe better because you know somebody will lean on it........

 

[Nativespec]

I recently bought a 1/8" Freud slot cutter for this reason.

 

[Littlejon]

It will hang on the wall. Basically, it is just like any shadow box, but will hold his Cub Scout stuff. I was planning on getting the glass cut and asking for some scraps. Glass place is around the corner from me and they are good guys.

I didn't think about the cloth or rope in the kerf, though. That is a good idea. I want it to be a good fit and this is a first for me, so I figured there would be some trial and error!

Thanks for the tips!

 

[DavidF]

I would consider putting the glass in a rebate with a retaining instead of a groove incase the glass ever gets broken, it will be a pane (sic) to replace it.

 

[Littlejon]

Hmmm. I hadn't thought of that! Would make a lot of sense, especially with two rambunctious boys in the house!:-D

Thanks!

 

[DaveO]

Personally I would use Plexiglas or Lexan. Especially if it going to installed in a method that would make it difficult to replace. Glass will break, and need replacing. I have bought Lexan at the BORG and cut it myself with a razor knife by scoring and snapping it. I like having the option of being able to cut and shape it myself, as my projects often have unexpected changes in dimensions.
MTCW,
Dave

 

[DavidF]

Hmmm. I hadn't thought of that! Would make a lot of sense, especially with two rambunctious boys in the house!:-D

Thanks!

In that case go with the lexan - it looks and behaves the same as glass over resonably small areas, but still put it in a rebate.

 

[cpowell]

OK, so I got an idea for a shadow box for displaying my oldest son's Cub Scout badges, etc. I know what I want to make and what to make it of, but I have never used glass in a project before and don't know what size router bit to use or if a tablesaw blade width would give me enough "play". What I am planning is glass about the same thickness as picture frame glass, which I always assumed as about 1/8" thick. This box will require the glass be put in at assembly, with the back being removeable but not the glass.

Any tips on this? I was thinking about a saw blade width might do the trick, but wasn't sure.

Thanks in advance.

Jon, I have used a rabbet to set the glass in and made a custom molding on the back side to attach to the frame. I used a spot of silicon caulk (VERY small dot) every 15 inches to keep it from rattling. I used tempered glass to minimize risk of injury in the event of unintended breakage. Order the glass after the frame is assembled. I ordered mine 1/16th undersized length and width and it was perfect.

The molding fastened with short brads - and not very many. In the event of glass breaking it will be possible to replace without too much trouble.

Here's links to pics from an earlier post.

back side http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2972&d=1177465048

front side http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2973&d=1177465048

I agree Lexan will work just fine if you don't have a risk of scratches. I'd still construct it to allow for easy future replacement.

Chuck

 

[Kyle]

also considered tempered glass..

 

[Littlejon]

Thanks guys! I appreciate all the advice. I will be working on this over the summer, so I may try it out on some scrap first to see how it will all fit. I like the Lexan idea. I may opt for that just for piece of mind.

Good looking frames you have there, BTW!