Finishing White Oak...

[ptt49er]

As you all are probably aware, I am working on a crib for our first child. (check it out here):eusa_danc! He is due in 10 weeks.8-O I am almost done with the joinery for the crib and about to start sanding, running up to 220 grit. BUT this is where my knowledge runs out. I don't know what to do next in order to finish it. There are a few restraints on this project though.

~It's gotta be idiot proof, I'm running out of time and don't want to have to redo anything

~Just a clear finish, leaving the wood natural

~Must be wipe on, as my finishing supplies consist of an old white t-shirt and a jug of mineral spirits

~TOUGH and safe for baby!

Thanks in advance guys and gals, hopefully one day I'll have the knowledge you guys do so I can help newbies like myself.

 

[DaveO]

Phillip, based on your criteria you best bet is going to be Polyurethane, buy the sheen you like and some mineral spirits and thin it down about 60/40 to make a wiping varnish. Polyacrylic could be another choice if it could be wiped on, I am not familiar with applying it in that method.
Shellac could be another option but it is a little more difficult to apply.
To alleviate any concerns, all finishes are non-toxic when fully cured, so anything is going to be safe for your child. But not everything is going to be idiot proof, given a sufficient idiot.
Poly is going to be the easiest but will add a little amber color to the Oak, which I think will add some warmth to a rather gray-ish wood.
MTCW,
Dave

 

[McRabbet]

Phillip,

I've done a number of projects using White Oak -- I'm working one one right now -- and I use General Finishes "Seal-A-Cell" as the sealer (1-2 coats) and clear Stain finish "Arm-R-Seal" as the top finish (2-3 coats). It is a wipe-on product that is made of tung oil and polyurethane. It produces nice results and is easy to apply. Available at Klingspor's Woodworking Shop with your 10% discount.

 

[ptt49er]

Phillip,

I've done a number of projects using White Oak -- I'm working one one right now -- and I use General Finishes "Seal-A-Cell" as the sealer (1-2 coats) and clear Stain finish "Arm-R-Seal" as the top finish (2-3 coats). It is a wipe-on product that is made of tung oil and polyurethane. It produces nice results and is easy to apply. Available at Klingspor's Woodworking Shop with your 10% discount.

Are there any pictures of projects you've finished with this product. Thanks for you advice!!

 

[WoodWrangler]

Hey Phillip,

I think these guys have already given you the best advice ... so I won't chime in there. :slap:

As you know, I made my daughter a crib last year. I chose to buy a low-cost HVLP system from Home Depot by Wagner for $100 and spray a clear finish on. It turned out great and was VERY easy to use and provided for a beautiful finish. You may wish to try this route ... :icon_thum

 

[McRabbet]

Are there any pictures of projects you've finished with this product. Thanks for you advice!!

How's this one? This is a Wine Cellar I did for a client last Fall and this picture in featured on the July page of the 2007 NCWoodworkers.net Calendar (available from Cafe Press)
Here's a closeup shot of the finish on White Oak Plywood (area with the medallion) and the edge banding of solid White Oak to the left side. Slightly out of focus, but you get a good idea of the clarity and color of the Arm-R-Seal. For more pictures of this project, go to http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?cat=871. The counter top and tasting table are done in African Mahogany with 5 coats of Behlen's Rockhard Tabletop Varnish.

Hope this helps.

 

[ptt49er]

Rob, that finish looks awesome!

I ran out after DaveO's post and grabbed some poly. I believe I like the "warmth" that the poly gives the oak. Should I still seal the oak with poly as well? Is there any sanding needed between coats?

Thanks again guys!
~Phillip

 

[DaveO]

Your first coat of any film finish will "seal" the wood. If you are planning on thining and wiping on the Poly, I would recommend putting on several coats then sanding it smooth with 220/320 grit paper or some 000 steel wool, or a Scotchbrite pad. What king of gloss level are you looking for. Depending on that, you might want to rub-out the final finish coat with steel wool and wax or MS to acheive the desired sheen.
Wipe on finishes won't build as fast as a brush on full strength finish, they will dry faster and self-level easier, but you'll have to apply more coats to get the build and thickness to rub -it- out at end than you would with unthinned finish.
MTCW ymmv,

Dave

 

[McRabbet]

Rob, that finish looks awesome!

I ran out after DaveO's post and grabbed some poly. I believe I like the "warmth" that the poly gives the oak. Should I still seal the oak with poly as well? Is there any sanding needed between coats?

Thanks again guys!
~Phillip

You should seal the wood first -- assuming you're working with an oil-based poly, I'd suggest a 50:50 cut with mineral spirits as a sealer coat; lightly sand with 220 grit (also between finish coats) and then apply 2-3 finish coats. If you have exposed end grain (e.g., tops of posts), then sand those to 320 grit before you seal -- you will get less penetration of sealer that with the long grain sanded at 220 and the end grain won't appear darker as a result.

BTW, see my post in your Crib Thread.

 

[Gofor]

I used a mixture of 1/3 Minwax Satin polyurethane (what I had on hand), 1/3 Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) and 1/3 Mineral Spirits (MS). I applied it with a brush, let it stand for about 10 minutes, and then wiped it off with a piece of folded T-shirt. The top on this workbench is white oak, the bottom yellow pine. No stains or pretreatments.
If you want the satin finish, you need to stir the poly well before mixing and then a quick stir about every 5 minutes while using as the flatteners settle out quickly.
Downside of using the BLO is a longer drying time between coats. I put on 2 coats a day about 6 hours apart. This bench only has 4 coats on it. I also have found since (after the pictures) that Johnsons paste wax matches perfectly for touching up scratches. The gloss builds as you increase the number of coats.



Go

 

[ptt49er]

I used a mixture of 1/3 Minwax Satin polyurethane (what I had on hand), 1/3 Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) and 1/3 Mineral Spirits (MS). I applied it with a brush, let it stand for about 10 minutes, and then wiped it off with a piece of folded T-shirt. The top on this workbench is white oak, the bottom yellow pine. No stains or pretreatments.

What's the advantage of mixing in the BLO? I like the way that finish looks, just wondering what the BLO does for it. I'm leaning heavly towards the satin finish, as I am sure this crib will take a good bit of abuse and the satin, hopefully, wont show as much of it as the gloss would.

Thanks again!!

 

[Gofor]

Adding the BLO gives a softer finish (as in hardness, altho it gives "softer" appearance also IMHO) than straight poly or varnish, and also lengthens the drying time. It also may add a little to the amber hue, as it is a bit darker than the minwax poly by itself.
I decided on the mixture based on a post by Howard Acheson describing the differences of a"tung oil finish", "Danish oil" finish and a wipe-on varnish finish. What I used is called an Oil/Varnish mix (which is similar to many of the "Danish oil" blends bought in the store). I wanted the softness of the oil finish for the bench as it will be subjected to impact, but also the added protection that the poly contributed. Using a 1:1 varnish/mineral spirit mix (wipe-on varnish) would have resulted in the harder, but more brittle finish.
After using it, I really like the natural feel of the finish, as well as the looks of it. I was also happy with the longer working time (longer to dry, but also more time to work with it). I was able to go back around after initially wiping off the excess and rewipe corner areas, etc where I missed a couple of runs/sags without it dragging like it would have on a partially cured wipe-on varnish.
On something complex like a cradle or crib, I would think the longer work time would be advantageous. However, I am not the one to advise on hardness of finishes for a child's furniture, because I think the crib I chewed on as a babe had lead-based paint on it!!
In summary: Its a compromise finish. More protective and faster drying than straight oil; Softer and more working time than straight varnish/poly; and easy to apply as a wipe-on.

Hope this verbose narrative answered your question:lol:

Go

PS: You can find Howard's post by clicking on member list, "H", Howard Acheson, and "list posts by Howard Acheson". Scroll down to the one named "Tung Oil Finishes". I am unsure on how to link another post/thread.

 

[DaveO]

PS: You can find Howard's post by clicking on member list, "H", Howard Acheson, and "list posts by Howard Acheson". Scroll down to the one named "Tung Oil Finishes". I am unsure on how to link another post/thread.

Here is the thread that Go is referring to http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/showthread.php?t=7749. The excellent information given by Howard is about 6-8 replies down the thread.
Dave

 

[NCPete]

Thanks for the link Dave... So now I know that Tung oil does not involve licking the piece... wish I had known that sooner,:BangHead: it's hard to get little slivers out of one's tongue:lol:

 

[Gofor]

Lick WITH the grain. Also, its best done after some good pit-cooked Bar-B-Que (none of that ketchup sauce) with a healthy helping of hush-puppies, altho for the vegytarians, you can do it after salad as long as you use an oil/vinegar dressing. That ranch stuff just don't work.:rolf::rolf:

Go

 

[NCPete]

thanks Mark! I will try that next time.... oil&vinegar dressing... hmmm, should create an interesting look.