If anyone steals this, I'm in trouble.
First, the problem. To reap the benefits of cedar, the finish cannot block the transfer of cedar stuff through the finish. There is alot more going on than just cedar oil. Actually, shellac will seal the *&^% out of cedar; it just isn't as durable as others. Any finish that is funtionably durable will seal in the good stuff. Any finish at all will slow it down, and possibly be damaged by the cedar. If you want the effect of raw cedar, no finish will work. Cedar is special because it outgasses.
My trick....
5 parts pure carnuba (not "contains carnuba") It is intimidating.
1 part purified beeswax (not "same")
enough naptha to make a thick paste. Say 1/4 part.
It takes an enormous amount of mixing (try adding the naptha to the carnuba first) but basicly; we are making a special paste wax. Adding a little japan dryer will help speed the cedar outgassing, but it will not shorten the drying time or add to durability; and it will make this wax very toxic for chewing critters such as small kids and pets. So don't do it, just wanted to give options.
Pre damp (not soak) the cedar with naptha prior to adding the first coat of wax. After the naptha goes away, heat it in. Stuff that that liquifies in heat will flow towards the heat, so heat the backside to soak in the wax. A heat gun works great, if you have the safety touch. Think saturating foamed metal with solder.
These problems are:
Naptha vapor pressure is high enough to sustain combustion (flash fire), so ventilate and wait before heating.
Cedar warps with heat, so do both sides and wait for temperature to settle. Tune with heat. The wax will cause an equilization. Wax both sides if necessary
Too much naptha will remove the outer layer of the cedar stuff.
This is unbelievably labor intensive and dangerous, but it does work. The cedar stuff will flow at a reduced rate that will last (to my guess) an order of magnitude (say 10 times) longer.
I have scarf drawers and tie racks to claim. So much for so little....:clock:
