Finishing question

[TominZebulon]

I have a couple coats of finish on a cutting board I made for someone for Christmas and have a question about sanding between coats. I read somewhere to sand between coats with 400 or greater sandpaper. I have both wet or dry (silicon carbide) and 3M P400 Sandblaster Gold. Does it matter which one I use? And to add to that, the wet or dry is actually 600. So would that make a difference? Thanks in advance for any advice!

 

[Monty]

The way I see it, you just want to knock down the rough spots and rough up the surface just a little so the next layer of finish can "grab". Probably doesn't matter much what you use as long as it's at least 400. I just use grey (the "between coats") Scotch-Brite pads.

 

[TominZebulon]

OK. Thanks Monty! When it comes to finishing, I do not know much. I think I may be a prime candidate for one of WG's finishing classes. I am going to keep my eyes out for it and try to get to one in the near future!

 

[Splinter]

What kind of finish are you using? I just use Mineral Oil on mine if it is really going to be used for food prep.

 

[TominZebulon]

Yeah, its just mineral oil. I picked up some General Finishes Salad Bowl Oil at the Raleigh Klingspor's. It went on real nice, but I have a couple runs on the edges and a couple spots I wanted to smooth out. I think I will try the sandpaper first, then rub it out with steel wool or an abrasive pad.

 

[TominZebulon]

Ok, next question. Do I leave the "dust" on it and just apply the next coat over it or do I need to use a tack cloth or something to get it all off there?

 

[NCPete]

I use a tack cloth between coats, but then I learned finishing doing automotive finishes.... I don't like dust in my finish

 

[DaveO]

Yeah, its just mineral oil. I picked up some General Finishes Salad Bowl Oil at the Raleigh Klingspor's. It went on real nice, but I have a couple runs on the edges and a couple spots I wanted to smooth out. I think I will try the sandpaper first, then rub it out with steel wool or an abrasive pad.

If it is just Mineral Oil, you shouldn't have any drips that can't be just wiped off. Mineral Oil doesn't build a film, it just soaks in. General Finishes Salad Bowl finish is a oil based varnish, and that could give you the runs (in the finish only, at least after it is fully cured :lol: :lol: ).
I would rub it out with some 220, 320 or 400 grit paper to level any drips and then apply a thined coat of the finish, wiped on, wiped off.
Dave

 

[TominZebulon]

Thanks Dave! I guess I just learned something. I just assumed it was mineral oil. I guess I really need to learn this stuff! Did I make a mistake putting this stuff on the cutting board or should I have just used mineral oil? I have so much to learn about finishing. I need to invest in one or two of those good books that everyone has mentioned. The problem I have is I cannot remember from one project to the next which finish will work best.

 

[DaveO]

Tom, the only problem I can see with a film finish on a cutting board, is that it will be cut through. The GF Salad Bowl finish is great for bowls and other treenware, that will only hold food and not be subjected to the abuse of knife edges. GF also makes a Cutting Board finish which is nothing but expensive mineral oil, DAMHIKT :eusa_doh: MO and some wax is the best finish IMO for a cutting board that will be used for cutting, but I am sure that yours are too pretty to be used :-D
Dave

 

[NZAPP1]

I with Dave on this, General Finishes Salad Bowl finish is great on turned bowls that will not be cut into. I would use the mineral oil and wax as Dave suggested on cutting boards

 

[Howard Acheson]

An excellent treatment for cutting boards and butcher blocks is a mixture of mineral oil and either paraffin or beeswax. This is what is used on many commercial wood surfaces. It will last longer and be more protective than just mineral oil. Mineral oil can be found in most supermarkets in the pharmacy section or in a true pharmacy. Paraffin is found in the canning section of the store or in a hardware store.

Heat the oil in a double boiler and shave in some wax. The exact proportions are not critical--a 5-6 parts of oil to one part of wax will work fine. Stir the mixture until all the wax is liquified. Apply the mixture heavily and let it set 10-12 hours or overnight. Next day do it again and continue until the wood will no long absorb the finish. Let it set for 10-12 hours and then lightly scrape off any excess. Then buff it with a rag.

Reapply whenever the wood begins to look dry.

Never put a wood board in the dishwasher and don't soak it in dishwater for long periods.