Finishing a pen with CA Glue

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clowman

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Clay Lowman
I first saw the CA method from Woodguy, and I practiced with many many pens. It looked so easy, but it does take a fair amount of practice to get some consistant results. Here is a step by step set of instructions.

Admittedly, this is not the fruits of my labor, I shameless stole it from someone that posted it on the Penturners website. Not wanting to take the credit for someone else's work, here is the orginal thread where he posted his method Cad has offered me an alternative to sanding the wood before the finish is applied, I am going to try that next. I'll insert his suggestions in this list of steps.



-1800 RPM-
Sand with 240, 320, 400 Grit papers.
Wipe down with denatured alcohol (DNA)

Apply a thin sealer coat of Thin CA with 400 grit paper.

New sheet of 400 grit smooth out.
Wipe down with DNA.

MM through 12000 (DNA as needed between coats to remove sanding debris. Usually between each three of the MM.)

Two coats of Myland's cellulose sanding sealer.
MM last four grits through 12000 again.

DNA



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Cad's suggestions are this....
Replace the entire above sections with this step.....


-1800 RPM-
Sand with 240, 320, 400 Grit papers.
Wipe down with denatured alcohol (DNA)

Then slow the rpms down to 800. Use a firm wheel, 6" should be big enough. Spin the wheel on your drill, and apply some rouge to it. Then apply the spinning wheel to your blank turning on the lathe. Apply only enough pressure to see your wood change color. You will be able to dispense with all those extra steps of polishing, and move on straight to applying the finish coats of poly or whatever you use as a final. You will thank me after you try this. I figured it out on my own after hours of internet research.

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-Slow lathe to 500 Rpm. ( or Slowest setting).-

Apply two coats thin CA with Costco Paper Shop towel.
Air dry only betweencoats (NO ACCELERATOR).

Apply Two Coats of Thick CA, as smoothly as possible.
Air dry betweencoats. (If you do need to use a light application of
ACC, I wait at least 1 minute after each CA application, and only
use the Aerosol from a distance. I don't have any issues with cloudiness
or bubbles this way. The pump ACC does not work for me)

-Speed lathe back up to 1800 RPM.-

Sand with 320 Grit(Sometimes 240 grit if I went crazy) to remove any ridges, swirls etc.

Sand with 400 grit.

DNA

MM through 12000.

DNA

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Clay's note
I stop here, because I don't have a buffing wheel, or white diamond, or TSW, or Hut Plastic Polish. (Good reason huh)
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Buffing wheel with White Diamond only.

Hut Plastic Polish applied with paper shop towel.

TSW.

It seems like a ton of work, but really takes about 20 minutes from start to finish. Each grit of paper and MM is a very quick, light sand letting the papers do the work. There is not a ton of time on each grit, though I do make sure I have removed the sanding lines etc. I have worked on this method for quite a while, and it really works the best as far as results for me.
 

DaveO

New User
DaveO
I have seen your results and they are very impressive. Smooth, crystal clear and so far very durable (the Hut Crystal Coat friction polish wore off my first pen in a week). It's a finish that you have to touch to appreciate.
Thanks for the tutorial, I'll have to give it a try.
Dave:)
 

D L Ames

New User
D L Ames
Wow, that is a bunch of steps but I can tell from looking at your pens that it is worth it. Thanks for posting that Clay.

D L
 

Handturnedbowls

New User
James Holland
Man, I didnt know you were passing on my comments in a post here Clay, I would have saved you the trouble and did it on this thread.

Sorry, I have been extremely busy. Several things I need to do all at the same time.

Post my other email reply from today (2-23) as well, as it is very relavant at this point.

I have been developing and tweaking finishing of my turned work as long as I have been doing it seriously, over a year now. The largest time consumer for me was finishing the bowl.

The more that can be done on the lathe, while it is still in its original mounting, the better. The reason is that with bowls, no matter what steps you take remounting to its original spin is very difficult. Even if you use a dovetailed counterbore on the foot of the bowl. Because wood moves relative to atmospheric conditions. You can't see it many times, until you chuck the bowl or wood back in the lathe. Then it becomes obvious.

My comments about the sanding derive from my actual experience. I strove to reduce the time needed to achieve a perfect surface. Once down to 400 grit paper, if you got there properly, a buffing wheel and rouge will remove any scratches left from the 400 paper.

I'll wait for you to post the finish notes from my email this morning before I add anything else.

Sorry i havent had time to read all the threads here guys.

cad
 
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