Fiinish for Cherry table

[weelis]

Am finishing a table made of Cherry and am requesting some finishing suggestions. Top is 11 inches by 46 inches. I have used just shellac in the past but am looking for other options. What works for you on Cherry? Thanx.I know it is very subjective,

 

[smallboat]

Thanks for starting this thread it perfect timing.
Last week in the snow I started a new kitchen table - likewise cherry.

I've tested straight super blonde shellac vs same over BLO
So far I like the BLO version better, but I'm interested to hear what others suggest.
I have enough cut offs to continue testing a few options.

 

[Canuck]

I have used Waterlox on a couple small cherry shaker tables and the finish has stood up very well. Didn't mask the beauty of the aging cherry either. (A little expensive but very easy to apply as well.

Wayne

 

[Bill Clemmons]

I've done quite a few Cherry projects, and my favorite finish is a wiping oil/varnish. I mix equal parts of BLO/Varnish/Mineral Spirits.

 

[Hmerkle]

What varnish do you use Bill?
(does it matter?)

 

[smallboat]

not to hijack this thread, but I was about to ask the same question re finishes.
and so I'm adding another.

This is my first attempt at furniture / anything with flat surfaces.
I know I should finish both the top and bottom of the table top - but do I have to replicate the same finish schedule or just make sure to seal the bottom surface.
For instance, if I seal with shellac and then do another finish over (hypothetical) do I need to do both on the bottom as well or simply seal with shellac?
Seams like sealing is enough but...?

 

[jlimey]

I like the General Finishes Seal-a-cell followed by 4 coats of Arm-r-seal, with the last one buffed off shortly after application. For applications that don't get a lot of wear, shellac looks great on cherry.

 

[BillPappas]

If you want a nice Aged Cherry finish I have used the one on pg 72-73 of American Woodworker magazine March 2009 a few times with good results. You can read it here... http://issuu.com/newtrackmedia/docs/aw_002_fm_2009

Regards,

Bill

 

[Bill Clemmons]

What varnish do you use Bill?
(does it matter?)

It really doesn't matter, Hank. You could even use Poly if you wanted to. As for sheen, I prefer satin or semi-gloss, but gloss will work too. If I want it dulled down I just rub out w/ 320 grit.

 

[cyclopentadiene]

I finished a table and chairs last fall made of cherry. I have finished 3 coats of Waterlox applied by hand. I have been waiting for few days of optimal time to spray a few coats of Waterlox urethane. I spoke with the Waterlox customer service on the phone. They were very helpful in selecting the finish. The urethane is supposed to be extremely hard and resilient so it will not be damaged by hot dishes etc. in addition, as with other Waterlox products it is easy to repair.

i have done a few small practice pieces and refinished a dressing table for my Wife's closet using paint. These were my first attempts at spraying. I hint I am now ready once the weather breaks.

 

[thsb]

I like waterlox because it gives a nice finish and it is easy to apply.

For the other question, i probably put fewer coats on the underside of things but honestly don't know if that could create problems or not. it seems like if it is sealed that would be enough but someone else on here would know better.

 

[kooshball]

I finished a table and chairs last fall made of cherry. I have finished 3 coats of Waterlox applied by hand. I have been waiting for few days of optimal time to spray a few coats of Waterlox urethane. I spoke with the Waterlox customer service on the phone. They were very helpful in selecting the finish. The urethane is supposed to be extremely hard and resilient so it will not be damaged by hot dishes etc. in addition, as with other Waterlox products it is easy to repair.

i have done a few small practice pieces and refinished a dressing table for my Wife's closet using paint. These were my first attempts at spraying. I hint I am now ready once the weather breaks.

i recently used their urethane to finish a red cedar slab table. Not sure what gloss you bought but I went with 'gloss' and it is the highest gloss level I have ever seen from a wood finish. I rubbed it out to knock it down and so far so good. I abuse the table with coffe mugs, etc no problems yet.

 

[zdorsch]

Add me to the list of waterlox proponents!

I first tried out waterlox on a pine dining table 5/6 years ago and it has withstood a family of five. After that I used it on a cherry dining table that has aged beautifully. I recently used waterlox for a bathroom vanity top (I plan to recoat with waterlox as necessary).

Zach

 

[Jeff]

+1 to Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish. It's easy to apply, maintain, and repair if necessary.

I know I should finish both the top and bottom of the table top - but do I have to replicate the same finish schedule or just make sure to seal the bottom surface.

I think that just sealing the bottom is sufficient but it doesn't have to be a rigorous schedule. It seems prudent and it's easy to do.

...however, Bob Flexner has an unorthodox take on the idea and explains why it's not necessary. It seems to have been promoted historically for lots of wrong reasons.

http://www.woodshopnews.com/columns-blogs/finishing/45-finishing-both-sides-is-warped-thinking

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/finish_both_sides_not_necessary

 

[jlwest]

I have used good old urethane (Minwax) for several cherry pieces and have no problems.

 

[Cato]

Perfect timing for this post, as I just got some cherry and have never used it before. Always walnut or mahogany, and to be quite honest been a little leery of the blotching prone woods, but decided I wanted to give it a go with some cherry. I do like waterlox, and using shellac flakes so, I'll have to experiment. The wiping varnish mix I might try as well, though I think that waterlox is likely a wiping varnish.

 

[JohnW]

Done lots of cherry and have a favorite look.
Sand to 220
Apply BLO liberally then wipe it as dry as you can get it.
Let BLO dry for at least 24 hours.
Apply 1 coat of garnet shellac. 1 - 1.5 lbs cut. More of a sealer coat.
Let dry at least 2 hour.
Apply a clear coat of your choice. I like satin or semi. The clear water based finishes have gotten better and I also use rock hard table top varnish (oil based) I typically use the Mohawk brand.
Build up the clear coats as much as you want. For a table top I would go with at least 6 coats. Smaller tops I rub out with progressively finer sand paper and finish with pumice and rotten-stone.
Remember that cherry will darken a lot over time. With 1-2 years it gets dark and richer looking.

 

[JGregJ]

I wasn't sure what BLO was and with googling found it was "Boiled Linseed Oil".
Stumbled across which looks like a good post by Howard Acheson
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?15837-Tung-Oil-BLO-Danish-Oil-is-there-a-difference

He explained clearly the differences between the various commercial products like Waterlox, various Danish oils, and tung finishes.