I have dozens of 9-12 foot OAK boards straight from the sawmill. I currently have them stacked with stickers (also OAK) in my unheated garage.
Since I don't have access to a kiln, how should I dry these boards, and how long should it take? I did coat each end with latex paint as advised in WoordWorking magazine.
Thanks!
Jeff in Holly Springs
Jeff, this is the perfect time of the year for air drying oak. It's best to stack them outside where the wind can access the stacks, but inside is acceptable too as long as you can get some airflow through the stacks.
Be sure to use dry stickers (dry oak is fine, but if you use green oak you will get sticker stain between the stickers and your boards, and it can affect 1/8" or more of the wood), and it's usually a good idea to space the stack up 12" - 16" above the floor to prevent condensation from developing underneath the stack.
Tarhead's (and Woodguy's) advice is very sound.
RE end sealer, if you use a product designed for that purpose - such as Anchorseal or Bailey's End Seal - you will not have to trim anything off of the ends of your boards before you joint/plane them. If you use latex paint or any other substance, chances are that you will need to trim the ends of your boards before joint/planing, thus losing some wood.
At this time of the year, 4/4 oak should be down to 14% MC by July or August, 8/4 will require well into next year before being that low.
During the spring keep an eye out for any tell-tale small sawdust piles that may show up on or underneath your boards - these are an indicator of powder post beetles (common in oak) and their presence will mean that you'll need to sterilize your lumber either in a kiln or via chemical means before using it for indoor furniture.
