Coffee Table redux - WIP pics

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merrill77

Master Scrap Maker
Chris
I built a prototype for this table last fall - it turned out well enough to avoid the firewood pile but it took forever to finish it. I'm now making progress on this one, which is cherry and padauk. The joinery on this table is somewhat unusual and has been fun, but challenging. This is my third pass on getting the right fit on the stretchers (and not making any bone-headed mistakes).

Here the underside of the top showing how the four short stretchers join to the top. Those sliding dovetails are still tough for me to get the perfect fit (and I've done it 4 times now).

SlidingDovetails.jpg


The long stretchers then interlock to the short ones (can never remember the proper name for this joint):

StretchersInPlace.jpg


With that done, I was ready for the edge treatments. The ends have a slight curve to them, which I roughed out at the bandsaw:

CuttingEndProfile.jpg


The edges on the sides and ends have a rounded profile to them. I roughed out the sides on the table saw. The ends were more challenging. Since they are already curved, the table saw was out. I was worried about getting too much blow-out on the router table, and since the "wrong side" was up, I could not see a line to cut to on the bandsaw. I went with the bandsaw option, cutting by eye at about a 30 degree angle and was very conservative, leaving a plenty to clean up at the workbench.

BevelingEndProfile.jpg


Here I'm almost done cleaning up the end profile. Because of the rabbet for the glass at the end, the profile changes gradually from the outside corner, where it is more pronounced to the inside corner. I still haven't thought of any way to do that with power tools...not even a router. This was a job for handwork. My new low-angle jack plane was truly a joy to use for this. It did take me nearly an hour to profile all four ends, though.

PlaningTheEndProfile.jpg


By comparison, the long edge was easy. Still used the low-angle jack, but I switched blades for a traditional angle. Again, this plane is a joy to use. Try to ignore my embarassingly cheap tail vice :>

PlaningTheSideProfile.jpg


Except for a very slight round-over of the top edges, the two tops sections are done. Here they are fitted:

TopFitted1.jpg


and another from the end:

TopFitted2.jpg


Next step is to finish the stretchers. They need a nice curve on the ends and 4 of them need a slot on the inside to hold a panel that makes a closed box under the glass in the center of the table. Hopefully this time I'll cut the slot on the correct side of the stretchers! :BangHead:

Then I can move on to the legs. After using that Veritas plane on the top, I'm going to be loathing my el-cheapo spokeshave on the leg profiles. But perhaps with practice, I'll do better than I did on the prototype. The legs have continuously-increasing curve as you go down the leg. It seemed like I could only use the spokeshave effectively on a few inches of the leg at a time and then needed to re-adjust the blade setting for the next 2-inch section. I suppose I could use my OSS. Ugh.

This padauk is fun stuff to work with, but it is a lot softer than I expected. Heavy, though.

Chris
 

CDPeters

Master of None
Chris
Lookin' real good there Chris! I like the contrasts. I know what you mean about getting those sliding dovetails just so...

Do what I do when I'm slotting for a bottom - mark the approximate position of the slot with a pencil. DAMHIKT - those parts all look the same once you knock down the dry fit!

Nice work!
C.
 

merrill77

Master Scrap Maker
Chris
Lookin' real good there Chris! I like the contrasts. I know what you mean about getting those sliding dovetails just so...

Do what I do when I'm slotting for a bottom - mark the approximate position of the slot with a pencil. DAMHIKT - those parts all look the same once you knock down the dry fit!

Nice work!
C.

Thanks!

And YES on marking the parts. If you look closely, you can make out some of the many chalk marks - each part is numbered. Some in chalk, some in pencil (in places that will not be visible). Some more than once :>
 

CDPeters

Master of None
Chris
Oh yeah - and I think it's called an edgewise cross halving joint...

Having a hard time visualizing how you will fit the center bottom panel into the dado slots and get those joints together.

C.
 

merrill77

Master Scrap Maker
Chris
Oh yeah - and I think it's called an edgewise cross halving joint...

Having a hard time visualizing how you will fit the center bottom panel into the dado slots and get those joints together.

Heh heh. That WAS tricky! It can't be done the way I show in the pictures (by first sliding the stretchers into their dovetailed slots in the tops) - but that is the best way to fit the joints.

  1. assemble the two long stretchers to one of the short ones
  2. pull them apart and slide in the bottom panel (this is tough if the joints fit really well)
  3. close it up and add the remaining short stretchers
  4. slide the stretchers into the sliding dovetail slots in the tops
The dado holding the bottom needs to be 1/2" deep on the first short stretcher (instead of 1/4" deep on the others) to allow it to slide in and be out of the way for second short stretcher to slide into place. Then the panel slides back into the second short stretcher. It needed to be glued/wedged in place so it can't slide back. It's hard to explain - almost as hard as it was for me to figure out how the original designer made it work! It's perfectly obvious once you see it done, though. A video is worth a thousand words, here. If we had videos working on NCWW, I'd whip one up :>
 

CDPeters

Master of None
Chris
No need on the video - your description was perfect. As soon as you said the dado in one short stretcher is double depth, I knew exactly how you will pull it off. I would do some 1/8" dowel pins up from the bottom on both ends (for symmetry) to keep the panel from shifting. That preserves the no-hardware nature of the project.

Leave some space for movement :swoon:!

NICE!
C.
 

merrill77

Master Scrap Maker
Chris
Where did you find the plans for that height adjustable sawhorse? I think that I saw something similar in FWW?

I'd be honored if it was! You've made my day :gar-Bi
It is my own design - there are a few more pics and details on my site. I've had a few people contact me for plans, which I unfortunately don't have. They are overly complicated to build - I've got a much simpler design in my head that would have the same features and be easier to build. But since I have these and they work great, I have not found the motivation to build version 2.0.
 

merrill77

Master Scrap Maker
Chris
No need on the video - your description was perfect. As soon as you said the dado in one short stretcher is double depth, I knew exactly how you will pull it off. I would do some 1/8" dowel pins up from the bottom on both ends (for symmetry) to keep the panel from shifting. That preserves the no-hardware nature of the project.

Leave some space for movement :swoon:!

That is a good idea. I glued in wedges on the prototype, but dowel pins would be a bit neater.

The bottom is plywood, so I'm ignoring seasonal movement issues.
 

merrill77

Master Scrap Maker
Chris
With my pinewood derby duties fulfilled, I got some time to work on my coffee table this weekend. I fitted the legs to the rails and roughed out the shape of the legs. The legs use a pegged bridle joint over the rails (I haven't done the pegs yet). If the bridle joints are tight enough, I'm hoping to not have to glue them. The result would be a table without either glue or metal fasteners. Dunno why I'm trying to accomplish that, other than as a conversation piece (or bragging rights?). The odds are they've eventually loosen up and I'll have to glue them anyway.

Next step is pattern-routing the final shape of the legs.

LegJoineryComplete.jpg
 
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