I know I said I would write up how I do my CA finish a couple of weeks ago, but I have been really sick with the flu for the past 2 weeks and I am just now starting to feel better. So better late than never here we go.
I start by turning my blank as smooth as possible then I start sanding usually with 320 grit, then 400, 600 I sand cross grain with the lathe running then stop the lathe and sand with the grain. I usually sand just as long if not longer going with the grain as this seems to remove the sanding lines the best.
After I am finished sanding I wipe down the blank with DNA (denatured alcohol) or LT (lacquer thinner) depending on how oily the type of wood is. Once the DNA or LT has dried, I set my lathe speed to around 800 and apply 2 thin coats of Mylands Sanding Sealer I use the Shellac based version.Once the sanding sealer is dry I lightly sand it using 0000 steel wool then lightly buff with a clean rag.
Next I apply a coat of thin Ca and let it dry with the lathe running. Once Dry I lightly sand with 600 or 800 grit paper depending on how smooth I got the CA. Make sure you sand out the blank crass grain and with the grain removing all swirl marks. Wipe with DNA and lightly buff with a clean cotton rag when DNA is dry.
Now apply a coat of thick CA glue, Again I like to leave my lathe running while the CA dries. Once the CA is dry I sand with 600 or 800 again depending on how smooth the CA finish is. Don't forget to sand both directions, when all swirl marks are gone wipe with DNA let it dry and lightly buff with a clean cotton rag.
Apply 1 more coat of thick CA let it dry completely. I now set my lathe speed to 1800 rpm. Now I go through all the grits of MM (micro mesh) I prefer to wet sand with the MM I do not use DNA between grits just a damp rag to remove the sanding residue. Once I finish sanding with MM I wipe off the blank with a clean rag. Make sure you check the blank closely in between each grit of MM to look for any missed swirl marks as it is much easier to fix at that time then after you have gone through all the grits.
For the last step I use Huts Plastic Polish, I also sometimes use Renaissance Wax just depends on my mood. I apply the huts on high speed and use light pressure.
I hope this is helpful to everyone and if you have any questions please feel free to ask.
A good Point was brought to my attention about DNA there is a water content in DNA unless you are luck and can buy pure DNA. When using DNA it might be best to wait about an hour after putting it on raw wood to let the water have a chance to evaporate. I like to use lacquer thinner myself.
Also Wet sanding takes alot of getting use to you night want to try this method dry sanding instead until you get used to it.
I start by turning my blank as smooth as possible then I start sanding usually with 320 grit, then 400, 600 I sand cross grain with the lathe running then stop the lathe and sand with the grain. I usually sand just as long if not longer going with the grain as this seems to remove the sanding lines the best.
After I am finished sanding I wipe down the blank with DNA (denatured alcohol) or LT (lacquer thinner) depending on how oily the type of wood is. Once the DNA or LT has dried, I set my lathe speed to around 800 and apply 2 thin coats of Mylands Sanding Sealer I use the Shellac based version.Once the sanding sealer is dry I lightly sand it using 0000 steel wool then lightly buff with a clean rag.
Next I apply a coat of thin Ca and let it dry with the lathe running. Once Dry I lightly sand with 600 or 800 grit paper depending on how smooth I got the CA. Make sure you sand out the blank crass grain and with the grain removing all swirl marks. Wipe with DNA and lightly buff with a clean cotton rag when DNA is dry.
Now apply a coat of thick CA glue, Again I like to leave my lathe running while the CA dries. Once the CA is dry I sand with 600 or 800 again depending on how smooth the CA finish is. Don't forget to sand both directions, when all swirl marks are gone wipe with DNA let it dry and lightly buff with a clean cotton rag.
Apply 1 more coat of thick CA let it dry completely. I now set my lathe speed to 1800 rpm. Now I go through all the grits of MM (micro mesh) I prefer to wet sand with the MM I do not use DNA between grits just a damp rag to remove the sanding residue. Once I finish sanding with MM I wipe off the blank with a clean rag. Make sure you check the blank closely in between each grit of MM to look for any missed swirl marks as it is much easier to fix at that time then after you have gone through all the grits.
For the last step I use Huts Plastic Polish, I also sometimes use Renaissance Wax just depends on my mood. I apply the huts on high speed and use light pressure.
I hope this is helpful to everyone and if you have any questions please feel free to ask.
A good Point was brought to my attention about DNA there is a water content in DNA unless you are luck and can buy pure DNA. When using DNA it might be best to wait about an hour after putting it on raw wood to let the water have a chance to evaporate. I like to use lacquer thinner myself.
Also Wet sanding takes alot of getting use to you night want to try this method dry sanding instead until you get used to it.
