BS narrow blade stabilizer

[Keye]

In the WS vol. 30/no. 176 there is an article on upgrades for the BS. One of the things they recommend is a Carter Stabilizer for narrow blades. I am going to start making BS boxes and wondered if anyone has an opinion, yer reckon, on how much, if any, this would be a benefit in making BS boxes. I am really shooting for high-end BS boxes.

During the Char. shop crawl Todd said the linked belt really helped his saw. Since I have a riser I think I will try one.

Anyone that builds BS boxes have a blade they could recommend?


OK, I give up. Would someone explain to me why the lower supports need to be removed?

 

[PeteQuad]

Hi Keye. I've only made the 2 you saw, so I don't really have much experience with them, but in the book that gave me my ideas, Lois Ventura, the author, said she has gone to using only 3/8" blades because of the smoother cut they give while still allowing a good amount of curve.

I used a 1/4" blade and will probably get a 3/8" at some point. The small curves require quite a bit of difficult sanding which can get tiresome . If they are too small to fit a drum or spindle sander it can be very difficult to do a good job by hand.

 

[DaveO]

If you have block type guides you can use Cool Blocks or blocks made of Lignum vitae (if you got some lying around) and bury the blade teeth and all in the blocks. They won't effect the set or sharpness.

That said I have done several BS boxes and have done fine with my standard Griz issue roller guides, a good ¼" blade and a well tensioned BS.

Dave

 

[WoodWrangler]

I have the Carter Stabilizer and actually made my first bandsaw box yesterday. I'll try to get a picture posted soon for you to see. The results were pretty dang good in my book ...

As for the Carter Stabilizer, I'd say it made my saw about 3x more useful. It's a great accessory ... I just only wish I too had put a new spring in my bandsaw to go along with it (that will come with time)

 

[BKind2Anmls]

I have the Carter bearing stabilizers and I love them. I can actually place them right against the blade for maximum stability.

 

[JackLeg]

IMHO, a 3/8" blade is the most versatile, all round blade for the money. Course I don't do a lot of fine, intricate inside work. Mostly just curvatures on swings and the like.

:wsmile:

 

[Keye]

I have the Carter Stabilizer and actually made my first bandsaw box yesterday. I'll try to get a picture posted soon for you to see. The results were pretty dang good in my book ...

As for the Carter Stabilizer, I'd say it made my saw about 3x more useful. It's a great accessory ... I just only wish I too had put a new spring in my bandsaw to go along with it (that will come with time)

Jeremy, looking forward to the picture. After seeing your shop and BS's, yes plural, why am I not surprised that you have the Carter stabilizer. I read somewhere that the new spring thing is overrated.

Pete, thanks for the input. One of the reasons I am looking for the best cut possible is to reduce the amount of sanding. The reason I use my Bosch jigsaw so much is I get a smoother cut with it than my BS.

 

[bluewing92]

I have used the Carter Stabilizer and it worked well on cuts 2" or less. Because there is no support at the bottom under the table if you follow their directions it gave me cuts with bows and slants in the thicker boxes. So I went back to the cool blocks (made my own from hard maple soaked in mineral oil). This give the blade good support on both the top and bottom. I also primarily use a 3/16 10TPI blade for making bandsaw boxes. If I need to make smaller/tighter curves when cutting out the drawers I go to a 1/8 14TPI blade.
I am by no means an expert and still have a lot to learn this is only my experience. I am sure others have had different experiences with the stabilizer.
Warning: Making bandsaw boxes can be addictive and fun. They make great gifts and can be done in a short period of time.
You can go to my album and look at some that I have made.
http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?cat=500&page=1&ppuser=1394

 

[Keye]

I have used the Carter Stabilizer and it worked well on cuts 2" or less. Because there is no support at the bottom under the table if you follow their directions it gave me cuts with bows and slants in the thicker boxes. So I went back to the cool blocks (made my own from hard maple soaked in mineral oil). This give the blade good support on both the top and bottom. I also primarily use a 3/16 10TPI blade for making bandsaw boxes. If I need to make smaller/tighter curves when cutting out the drawers I go to a 1/8 14TPI blade.
I am by no means an expert and still have a lot to learn this is only my experience. I am sure others have had different experiences with the stabilizer.
Warning: Making bandsaw boxes can be addictive and fun. They make great gifts and can be done in a short period of time.
You can go to my album and look at some that I have made.
http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?cat=500&page=1&ppuser=1394

Norm, I think you can go ahead and collect the prize for the most BS box pictures.

Has anyone else experienced the issues with the Carter that Norm norm mentions?

 

[PeteQuad]

Nice boxes Norm. I see you read the same book I did . Excellent job on the smoothing, I need to work on that. What finish do you use? I was just using Watco but yours seems a little glossy which looks good.

You're right about them being addictive. I'm trying to move on to other stuff but all the wood I see looks like bandsaw boxes to me now.

 

[bluewing92]

Thanks Pete. Yes that is the book I started with.

I also give my boxes several coats of Watco Danish Oil then wait 4-5 days to make sure it is dry and apply several coats of wipe on poly.

 

[tom hintz]

I have a review of the Carter blade stabilizers at the link below. I was amazed at how well they work. I don't fully understand HOW they work, but they do. The down side to the review I did on them is that I cut up way too much scrap playing with them because I couldn't believe how tight of a radius I could cut with them. The wife came out to the shop a noticed me playing thought I might have finally slipped over the edge.

http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/carterstabilizrrvu.html

 

[Ken Massingale]

I have used the Carter Stabilizer and it worked well on cuts 2" or less. Because there is no support at the bottom under the table if you follow their directions it gave me cuts with bows and slants in the thicker boxes. So I went back to the cool blocks (made my own from hard maple soaked in mineral oil). This give the blade good support on both the top and bottom. I also primarily use a 3/16 10TPI blade for making bandsaw boxes. If I need to make smaller/tighter curves when cutting out the drawers I go to a 1/8 14TPI blade.
I am by no means an expert and still have a lot to learn this is only my experience. I am sure others have had different experiences with the stabilizer.
Warning: Making bandsaw boxes can be addictive and fun. They make great gifts and can be done in a short period of time.
You can go to my album and look at some that I have made.
http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?cat=500&page=1&ppuser=1394

I agree, Norm.
The Carter Stabilizer is intended to allow bandsaws to make scroll type cuts. To me this means that we can do cuts on a BS that are typically done on a Scroll saw. Now, how many of us use a scroll saw to make scroll cuts in 4" + thick stock, which is about the minimum bandsaw box thickness.
I only use the Stabilizer with 1/8" blades, for the 3/16, 10 TPI that I use for bandsaw boxes, the roller guides go back on the Rikon 10-325. I tried the Stabilizer and couldn't get straight cuts. A call to Carter and a nice knowledgeable lady nicely told me that the Stabilizer is intended to mimic a scroll saw on a BS, not for resawing curves in thick stock.

Before getting the Rikon I had a HF BS and when using 1/8" blades I buried the blades in the block style guides, as Dave described.

 

[WoodWrangler]

I agree with the comments about the blade deflecting because there is no lower support. HOWEVER, go slow and it can work. Here's the bandsaw box I made last weekend (the first ever from me!)

 

[PeteQuad]

Beautiful job! Very creative shape, I like.

 

[Keye]

B U M P

 

[WoodWrangler]

OK, I give up. Would someone explain to me why the lower supports need to be removed?

I think because it is restrictive and wouldn't allow the blade to "bend". The Carter Stabilizer is about blade mobility/flexibility and not constraining it in the way standard side supports would. Therefore, you completely remove the upper supports to install the Stabilizer, and the lower supports are disengaged.

 

[MT native]

Does anyone know if I can fit the stabilizer on my 9" bandsaw (for carving 3" and under pieces) so I can keep the Roller Guides on the 14" Grizzly for larger work?

Jane

 

[sapwood]

Jane,
I had a somewhat similar question and called the folks at Carter. They were very nice and answered questions their resellers couldn't.

Carter Products Company, Inc.
2871 Northridge Drive, NW
Grand Rapids, MI 49544
USA
Toll Free: 888.622.7837
Phone: 616.647.3380
Fax: 616.647.3387
Monday to Friday 8am to 5pm EST




HTH,
Roger

 

[WoodWrangler]

Does anyone know if I can fit the stabilizer on my 9" bandsaw (for carving 3" and under pieces) so I can keep the Roller Guides on the 14" Grizzly for larger work?

Jane

They seem to have a lot of models of the blade stabilizer for many 14" saws, but not sure about smaller. I would give them a ring. They are a pretty small company, I believe, as the father and son (inventor) do the shows themselves.