Biscuits , Frames and Panels *MORE PROGRESS (and pictures)*

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Bas

Recovering tool addict
Bas
Corporate Member
I started a new project, this will be a cabinet to put my bird cage on (one of the legs broke off, and it's been resting on a piece of PT 2x4 for 6 months now....). The cabinet will have a big shelf for the kitty litterbox.

I liked the episode on the Woodsmith Shop on making frames and panels, so I decided to give that a try. Plus, I had to do something with that great plywood I got from Robert. Since I'm going to paint it, I decided to use poplar for the frames.

Dryfitting a panel:


One thing I learned is that it is OK for the plywood to be somewhat loose. The stub tenons need to be tight, but not the plywood. Once you add glue, it swells a little, and won't budge even if you whack it with the Big Orange Deadblow.

Here is the rear panel:


All the panels done:


This is what it is supposed to look like in the end (it will have a top of course):


I plan to join the sides with biscuits, no brads in this one:


The picture is a little fuzzy, but the joint is perfect. I found a video on the Youtubes (on the Internets) on cutting biscuit joints, the woodworker used a piece of sandpaper underneath the biscuit joiner when making the surface slots, to raise it slightly. That ensures the edge of the mating piece will stand just a hair proud, which can be easily sanded flush:


I tried to use biscuits to attach a piece of poplar trim to the plywood top. That didn't work out so well. Turns out there is a slight bow in the plywood (shocking!), so the biscuit slots don't line up. Arg! I think I'll just glue some biscuits in to fill most of the holes, cut them flush, and just use glue and clamps. One case where biscuits actually make alignment harder....

Anyway, I discovered I really like frame and panels, even if they're plain and flat. The biscuit jointer works like a champ, I think I'll also use it to attach the bottom. Attaching the top with biscuits might be too difficult, since it will have an overhang (alignment has to be spot on). I may just use screws instead.
 
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Canuck

Wayne
Corporate Member
Re: Biscuits , Frames and Panels

Great progress there, Bas!!!!!:wsmile::wsmile:

One thing I've seen Nahm do was use a slot cutter in the router and cut a continuous slot in the edge of carcase, then cut biscuit slots in the faceframe. That way you can use the biscuits in the faceframe and fit it to the continuous slot in carcase. (I hope I explained this right!:wsad:)
That stand is going to make the cage look real good!!!!:eusa_danc

Wayne
 

ScottM

Scott
Staff member
Corporate Member
Re: Biscuits , Frames and Panels

Bas, looks great. You have been busy. Now I know where that noise came from at 2:00 AM the other night. :gar-Bi
 

DavidF

New User
David
Re: Biscuits , Frames and Panels

Did you cut the tenons on the TS? Did you use a TS tenoning jig?
 

Kicbak

New User
Wes
Re: Biscuits , Frames and Panels

Looks great! If you're like me you start to feel back about making all those cool joints and then cover them with paint :gar-La;.

I really like the panel construction as well. Make a nice strong but very lightweight piece. What I have done just to help lining up the sides was to do a rabbet on the front and back panels so the sides fit in easily.

On the right side you can see the rabbet on the front of the stand.

DSCN0035.jpg




Here I dry fit it. Makes it really easy to get the joints correct since I sometimes screw up the biscuits...
DSCN0028.jpg




Also another little trick I did was to make the rabbet 1/4" deep so it matched the depth of my slot cutter for making the panels. That way all the grooves, dados, rabbets and the panels are at the same depth and match up very nicely and it made the measurements easy.

Wes
 

FredP

Fred
Corporate Member
Re: Biscuits , Frames and Panels

if the bird broke a leg off you should be building a splint not a box!:rotflm:
 

Bas

Recovering tool addict
Bas
Corporate Member
Re: Biscuits , Frames and Panels

Yes, I cut the tenons on the table saw. It's a very simple method, used the miter gauge with a backing board for stability, then just nibbled the material away (using the fence to control the size of the tenon). No fancy tenoning jig, although I've been eyeing the Grizzly one for a while...
 

Bas

Recovering tool addict
Bas
Corporate Member
Re: Biscuits , Frames and Panels

It's a pretty big cage, it's sized for a parrot but it just houses two cockatiels. I wanted to make sure it had enough mass so it wouldn't wobble when sliding out the shelf w/ the litterbox, so bigger is better!
 

Bas

Recovering tool addict
Bas
Corporate Member
Re: Biscuits , Frames and Panels

Looks good! Yes, a rabbet would work just as well, so many techniques to learn... I don't feel bad about covering things up with paint, I'm very pragmatic in that aspect. Plus, paint means you can use a little filler to hide your mistakes :)

I've been thinking about getting one of those lock miter router bits...that looks really strong, and I think the shape would help with alignment as well. Plus, new tool! :tool:
 

FredP

Fred
Corporate Member
Re: Biscuits , Frames and Panels

Looks good! Yes, a rabbet would work just as well, so many techniques to learn... I don't feel bad about covering things up with paint, I'm very pragmatic in that aspect. Plus, paint means you can use a little filler to hide your mistakes :)

I've been thinking about getting one of those lock miter router bits...that looks really strong, and I think the shape would help with alignment as well. Plus, new tool! :tool:

you will like the lock miter bit!:icon_thum setup can be tediouse but the results are good with some practice! the wenge boxes in my gallery were done with one and concidering the choise of materials they turned out good. one of them was done useing lock miters on all six sides. that can be tricky!:gar-La;
 

Keye

Keye
Corporate Member
Re: Biscuits , Frames and Panels

Think I just read somewhere that some lock miter bits come with a jig to make setup easier. Might want to look into it. If I am wrong it is because I am old. That's my excuse and I am sticking with it:eusa_danc:eusa_danc.
 

Kicbak

New User
Wes
Re: Biscuits , Frames and Panels

I almost bought a lock miter a few weeks ago when infinity was running the 1 item %25 off deal. Ended up getting the kitchen cabinet bit set with the stile, rail, panel, edge glue and drawer lock bit. I really wished it came with the locking miter too but that will have to come later after you tell us how good it works.

Wes
 

Bas

Recovering tool addict
Bas
Corporate Member
Re: Biscuits , Frames and Panels

Roger, if I would update my profile you would see that I am 62 also:rotflm:.

Sorry Bas, did not mean to steal your thread:gar-La;.
Any post that involves Roger and laughing is a worthy use of "my" thread. Besides, I'm out of stuff to say on this thing, at least until I get some more shop time. And that will be a while.....
 

FredP

Fred
Corporate Member
Re: Biscuits , Frames and Panels

Think I just read somewhere that some lock miter bits come with a jig to make setup easier. Might want to look into it. If I am wrong it is because I am old. That's my excuse and I am sticking with it:eusa_danc:eusa_danc.

they dont come with them but are available at exta cost.:gar-La; I chose to do my own setup then make my own setup blocks for use in the future.:icon_thum I'm too cheep [spelled thrifty] to spend the money on a piece of plastic!:no:
 

nelsone

New User
Ed
Re: Biscuits , Frames and Panels

...I'm out of stuff to say...

What's the world coming to???:eek:
I hope you have invested in some little birdy gas masks since they will be living over the outhouse!!:rolf:

Good looking project!
 

Bas

Recovering tool addict
Bas
Corporate Member
Biscuits , Frames and Panels - Part 2

Managed to get a few more hours of shop time last weekend, amazing how much fun "tedious" tasks like cutting 80 biscuit slots can be compared to work!

Anyway, I've become reasonably proficient at using my latest [strike]toy[/strike] tool.

Some people advocate plunging in, release the trigger, and then retract the blade. Others advise plunging in, retracting, and then releasing the trigger. I haven't seen any difference yet. The main thing is keeping the work piece dead flat on the table, with clamps if necessary.

By the time I'm done, I'll probably have 100 biscuits in this thing! Here I'm adding some poplar trim to the plywood, this will be the top. More biscuits. I'll put a simple profile on the edge, probably a bullnose.

The biscuits are sooo much easier to use than cauls and clamps, the trim is perfectly aligned and glue-ups are a lot less stressful.

A couple of dryfit shots. I have all the panels assembled and the biscuit slots are cut, so technically I'm ready for assembly. The alignment is spot on, with the edges about 1/64" proud.


I'm debating whether I should paint the panels first (using masking tape to cover the glue areas), or assemble and then paint. The first option makes sanding and painting a breeze, but assembly more complicated. The second option is less stressful (no worries about the clamps damaging the paint), and I can putty any gaps or mistakes. I'll probably do the latter.

One of the things I haven't figured out yet is how to attach the top. I want to use biscuits, but the top will overhang the cabinet by ~1", so there is no easy edge for reference . I'm thinking I should put the carcass upside down on the top, center it, then place a straightedge against one carcass side, and clamp it. I can then use that edge as a fence for the biscuit joiner. Then dryfit/ center again, put a straightedge against the next side, and repeat. The other option is to glue some blocks into the corners, and use screws from the bottom to fasten the top. Or, simple but crude, screw from the top and fill the holes.

Most likely, I'll try biscuits, find out I've misaligned the slots, get into a rage, slop glue on and brad it into oblivion :)

BTW, has any one used the Earlex spray system for latex paint? I feel a case of WGD coming on.... :rolf:
 
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