Bandsaw Blades???

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Canuck

Wayne
Corporate Member
I am "very fresh" to the world of bandsaws.:BangHead: - Just got one cleaned up and running today.:eusa_danc

How does one determine the best type of "all-purpose blade" to use. I think I know that the wide (3/4") blade is typically used for resawing, but with the wide variety of width's available, what would be the best for general type of work - ie cutting curves in 4/4 stock etc.. I think that perhaps I need to do some reading as well. Went looking for The Bandsaw Book by Lonnie Bird; but my local Barnes & Noble didn't have it :crybaby2: in stock.

Any recommendations on blade sizing would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Wayne
 

DaveO

New User
DaveO
Wayne, a lot depends on the size bandsaw you have. Most 14" max out at a 1/2" blade, I can run a 3/4" on mine (must have a tough spring). I generally use a 3/16" for box work and general curve cutting. But you should choose the blade width based on the radius of curve you want to cut, Or how straight you want the blade to run.
Dave:)
 

D L Ames

New User
D L Ames
Canuck said:
Went looking for The Bandsaw Book by Lonnie Bird; but my local Barnes & Noble didn't have it :crybaby2: in stock.

Thanks,

Wayne

Wayne, I don't have this book but I have seen reviews mention that this book is geared more toward what to look for when purchasing a bandsaw as opposed to how to set-up(tune) and use the bandsaw. Again, this is from the reviews that I have seen. Hopefully someone who has this book or read it will be able to give you more detailed information about it.

D L
 

Howard Acheson

New User
Howard
Wayne, if you are new to bandsaws and bandsawing, continue to try to get Lonnie's book. It is excellent. I used it for a number of years when I taught machine use. Mark Duginske also has a good book. Both will give you lots of info about types and uses of bandsaws, how to set them up and align them and then how to use them. They cover blades and which to use for what cut. Unlike tablesaws, there is no one "all purpose" blade for a bandsaw. Depending on wood thickness, sharpness of the curve and other factors, different blades are used. I probably have about six different width and tooth configuration blades for my 14" saw.
 

sapwood

New User
Roger
Wayne,

While you await finding the Bird or Duginske books, try the local library. Though my local branch is small, they have many standard woodworking books (Duginske, Peters, Lee fr'instance). It's free and helps you pick the books you want to own. :-D

Roger
 

junquecol

Bruce
Senior User
:eusa_booh "The Little Blade That Could"- 1/4", Bimetal, 6 teeth per inch, hook pattern. This blade can do everything that you want. If you are ever thinking of adding riser to saw, LIMIT BLADE PURCHASES to absolute minimum. Saw currently takes 93" blades, but with riser block will need 105" blades. First replace spring with better one and then call Ittura Design and get a copy of their catologue. It is the bandsaw bible. You will have to wait a while for cat. as they only mail when have several going to get best rate on postage.
 

DavidF

New User
David
1/2" 6 TPI for me does most things. I own a 1/4" x 6 TPI for smaller circles and a 1/2" 3 TPI skip tooth for re-sawing up to the max of my BS 6"
 

Canuck

Wayne
Corporate Member
Thanks so much everyone for your input. Here is a picture of the bandsaw find I struck (with a whole lot luck) about a week ago!:eusa_danc

As far as this novice can see, all it needed was a couple of new blades, a wee cleanup and a little TLC!

Thanks Toolferone (Tom), Junquecol (Bruce) and BobN (Bob) for all of your input regarding the Delta 28-275. Now I just need a good project to give it a workout!:lol: (Who says there ain't a few good deals out there!!!)

Wayne
IMG_0124.jpg
 
T

toolferone

That deal was a major YOU SUCK!! Bruce told me what was wrong with it. Some guys have all the luck.
 

NCPete

New User
Pete Davio
is that the $125 CL bandsaw???? the poster said 'it won't run'! what was the issue? Was it just a switch?

I almost had SWMBO clear on that one!
 

Canuck

Wayne
Corporate Member
is that the $125 CL bandsaw???? the poster said 'it won't run'! what was the issue? Was it just a switch?

Yes Pete. This was the one. It was just a switch issue. I still am feeling a little guilty about landing such a good deal though!8-O Don't usually luck out with these kind of deals.

Wayne
 

woodguy1975

New User
John
Wayne, I'd go with an earlier suggestion and get a good hook bimetal blade. Either 1/4" or 3/8" will do. 1/4" has a tighter cutting diameter if you do any scroll work. I like Lenox Bimetal blades tensioned to the right pitch (audio).

Nice score.

John
 

novice99

New User
Mike
What a sneaky way to post a gloat... suck everyone in asking for help, then POW!!! BTW, you suck!!!

way jealous...
 

Alan in Little Washington

Alan Schaffter
Corporate Member
For blades, call Suffolk Machinery. Tell them what size/hp saw you have and what kinds of things you'll be doing. They will give you a recommended set of Timberwolf blades.
 

junquecol

Bruce
Senior User
Yeah. It was a switch problem. That little red button located on the back of the motor. I don't see how previous owner could have overloaded the motor on a basically unused bandsaw. "A fool and his tools are soon parted:". Bruce Wrenn- 2006
 

NCPete

New User
Pete Davio
junquecol said:
Yeah. It was a switch problem. That little red button located on the back of the motor. I don't see how previous owner could have overloaded the motor on a basically unused bandsaw. "A fool and his tools are soon parted:". Bruce Wrenn- 2006


HE DIDN'T RESET the BREAKER??????!!!!!!! Does he have any more tools he doesn't know how to use????
 

chris99z71

New User
Chris
Reminds me of my first car, an '84 LeBaron. Bought it for $400 as a "basket case". The previous owner couldn't get it running right. As soon as I put the plug wires onto the RIGHT PLUGS (!) it ran like a top...well, atleast as well as could be expected for what it was...
 
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