annoyed with turning knobs

[BKHam]

i need to turn two matching shaker style knobs in walnut. i did some test knobs in scraps and settled on sizes and have dividers set up to produce a few. i'm still having trouble getting them exactly the same. as much as i want to make this myself i am tired.

does anyone have a process for repeating turnings? i need a new approach or i may be ordering something from the internet.

also, I want to use the knob shaft in a jacob's chuck in my head stock to do final sanding but that limits by shaft size to 3/8 which seems small. i've seen Roy turn a taper on the shaft and stick directly in the headstock but i dont have a taper reamer. any other suggestions for holding the work in the lathe so it can be finish sanded?

thanks in advance.

bh

 

[KenOfCary]

Make both knobs out of a single piece of wood and part them in the middle. The middle being the eventual tenon. This will make it easier to eyeball the symmetry. But expect a little bit of difference between the two. That's what makes them look handmade and not store bought from a CNC machine shop.

 

[Jim Wallace]

To sand the knobs without a chuck just put a block on a faceplate, then drill a hole the size of the tenon you want (I like 5/8 tenons, but 1/2 is probably fine) using your jacob's chuck in the tail stock. Your tenon should be a tight enough fit to allow you to sand the knob. What you'r going for is just a nice even finish across the front so it doesn't look different where it was attached. This also helps you make sure your tenons are a tight fit.

 

[Mike Davis]

If you can't get it worked out I'd be happy to help you.

 

[BKHam]

good advice guys. as soon as Jim wrote the note about putting a block on the faceplate it was a duh moment. i followed Ken's advice to some extent. i put the knob ends together. either way, your advice got me thru. i'm sure i'll be back in about a year when i get forced to turn something else!

check it out. top is breadboarded walnut with matching knobs. cabinet is some b-grade maple. all traditional mortise and tenon.

 

[Jim Wallace]

Very pretty. I just noticed that you're in Wake Forest. I'm just about 8 miles west of town you can pm if you'd like to come out some time.

 

[KenOfCary]

Very nicely done. Glad I was of some help getting there, but you did it yourself.

 

[BKHam]

Very pretty. I just noticed that you're in Wake Forest. I'm just about 8 miles west of town you can pm if you'd like to come out some time.

hey Jim. i'd love to come check out your shop. i haven't really connected with any other woodworkers since we moved to WF.

 

[BKHam]

Very nicely done. Glad I was of some help getting there, but you did it yourself.

sometimes you just need to hear someone else's idea

 

[Mike Mills]

They turned out very nice.:thumbs_up

If you do need to do more you can make a woodworm screw. Mount some scrap 3/4 to your faceplate, drill the center on the lathe for maybe a #12 sheet metal screw. Run the screw in from the back of the faceplate and screw your work piece on. You can then finish the front of the entire knob.
For duplicates I would draw it out on some stiff paper and cut it out. Throw your art away, you want the waste part (the negative); use it as a template as you turn.