And then the magic smoke oozed out of the table saw ...


Senior User
With that budget an older US made cabinet saw is easily doable with money left over for upgrades. I jumped from a contractors saw to the Unisaw and haven’t thought twice. With the contractor saw I did rip 8/4 oak and cherry have a far easier time with the cabinet saw (mass and higher hp).

I added a shark guard to my ‘73 Unisaw that addresses some of the safety issues.



Corporate Member
It might take more time than you have to get the saw you want so maybe I can offer some help. I have a 10” Bosch job site saw you can borrow for an extended period or I could mill up what you need - I have 4/4 poplar in the shop.
I also have the Bosh 4100 job site table saw. It has worked fine for many projects. I don't have room for a cabinet saw.

Rick Mainhart

Thanks everyone for your offers of assistance, suggestions, and comments.

I pulled the blade off the saw this morning and despite the operators manual stating there was nothing to service on this motor, I found a screw to allow oiling the arbor end bearing. After much fuss, I managed to find the right socket (hex screw with a slot that is difficult to access with the motor in place), oiled the front bearing, and reassembled.

After some testing, and a lot of searching (including with my bore scope camera, I did not find evidence of any easily accessible rear bearing oil port.

I started and stopped the saw about a dozen times, and as the oil worked its way through the bearing, things started operating in a more normal manner (insert dramatic music score here). Blade spun up much faster and kept spinning longer after power was removed.

Put the blade back on, readjusted for the dados I was cutting and was just about ready to cut the last one when I got interrupted. I went back and cut the last dado. I guess I had gotten so used to the blade stopping as if it had a magnetic brake installed (it doesn't), that I reached under to feel how hot the motor had gotten.

Nicked my right index finger. Did I mention that that was a new rip saw blade? Well, long story short, a quick trip to the doc in a box (they had no openings for today) and then to the ER to get my finger looked at. The PA's impression was "minor laceration", but cleaned and glued all the flaps back in place. An adhesive bandage for the next few days should help keep all the inside stuff inside.

So, my project is on hold for a few days while finger heals up. A new saw is still in the works, but without any great urgency ... allowing me ample time to review all of my options (and some of the options include a minor modification to the shop layout to allow a slightly larger table and working area).

I certainly didn't plan on spending all afternoon out of the shop, but it could have been far worse.



Henry W

Senior User
um wow, you got away with one there Rick.
I'm very glad that's all it was - a painful reminder - or a minor laceration. Of course it could have been much worse, but you already know that.
Thanks for the reminder to all of us


The SawStop contractor saw can also be had for $1700 but that is with the 30 inch fence. I looked at that fence when I bought my PCS but decided the extra for the 36 inch was worth it. It's not the extra 6 inches I wanted (mainly), the 36 is a much sturdier beefier fence. That ups the price of the contractor saw to $1900.

Both are with the 120V 1.75hp motor which my PCS has. I had issues with the thermal overload on the saw tripping when I tried to use full kerf blades (as I have with previous 120V saws). Once I switched to thin kerf blades, I have had no issues. Including with full depth rips.

I got stupid with a dado blade on and managed to get a few stitches earlier this year. But I still have the entire finger thanks to the brake. I've used a table saw for close to 50 years and that was my first incident. Glad I had the PCS.
I keep seeing these posts. You get hurt, but not bad. Hint, they demo with hot-dogs, not fingers! I keep thinking about a PCS and sell my trusty Ridgid. My biggest scares have been from lack of a proper riving knife and not using the right splitter plate. I really should. I figure it is a matter of time and I have been lucky for a lot of years. ( and careful)

Direct drive saws do not have the depth of cut a belt saw can. Not usually a problem. They are usually much lighter and for me. safety comes by the pound. The bigger and heavier, the more confidence the saw gives me I am in control. I am scared to death of bench top saws and not thrilled with a job-site size.

Our Sponsors