I need to make some table saw inserts and will eventually get around to making a router table. I'm cheap and don't like to pay too much for things. $30 for a phenolic table saw insert is pricey for me so I started looking at phenolic sheets instead. Unfortunately they seem to size the sheets so that you can only get 2 inserts out of it for again, $30. I just saw a guy on youtube make a really inexpensive router table and he used a plastic cutting board for the router plate. "Genius" I thought! Those are way cheaper then phenolic! They seem to be made of high density polyethylene. Would these make good inserts and eventually a router plate? A quick search on Amazon shows a 15"x20", 1/2" thick cutting board is about $16, and is made in several colors. That would yield 5 inserts!!! Just over $3 a piece! I know I could use wood and may go that route, but really like the idea of a hard plastic type insert for my non climate controlled garage shop.
Alternative to Phenolic for table saw inserts and router plate?
- Thread starter mdawson2
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Mike it seems like there are a few different requirements for the applications you are suggesting:
- TS throat plates - any smooth reasonably stiff (i.e not floppy) material in an appropriate thickness is fine here: mdf, plywood, any numbers of plastics etc. It helps if the material does not shrink/swell with changes in humidity, but even that is not so critical. These should be considered disposable as over time they just get chewed up
- router table - insert requirements are similar to TS throat plates in my view (although I don't use them and am restricted in bit diameter on my router table). Router plates for table use have much higher stiffness requirement when the router is suspended from it. Also these are generally larger and therefore any flexibility is accentuated. Router table plates need to chosen carefully so that they can support the router without flex. In my view the average cutting board is way too flexible for a RT plate.
Henry
- TS throat plates - any smooth reasonably stiff (i.e not floppy) material in an appropriate thickness is fine here: mdf, plywood, any numbers of plastics etc. It helps if the material does not shrink/swell with changes in humidity, but even that is not so critical. These should be considered disposable as over time they just get chewed up
- router table - insert requirements are similar to TS throat plates in my view (although I don't use them and am restricted in bit diameter on my router table). Router plates for table use have much higher stiffness requirement when the router is suspended from it. Also these are generally larger and therefore any flexibility is accentuated. Router table plates need to chosen carefully so that they can support the router without flex. In my view the average cutting board is way too flexible for a RT plate.
Henry
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I've made serviceable TS inserts from salvaged computer tables. The assemble it your self type. They work fine. Check the dollar store for cutting boards. They show up there sometimes.
Keep an eye out for counter shops that work with corian. It is another material good for TS inserts and jigs.
Not what to say on Router insert. There is a plastics supply and fabrication shop here in Winston. I've gotten some drops of Lexan that have been helpful. Maybe something similar is in your area.
Keep an eye out for counter shops that work with corian. It is another material good for TS inserts and jigs.
Not what to say on Router insert. There is a plastics supply and fabrication shop here in Winston. I've gotten some drops of Lexan that have been helpful. Maybe something similar is in your area.
I make my TS inserts from 1/4 inch birch ply with 5/16 x 1/2 maple blocks glued to the edges where needed.
My router table insert is 1/2 inch HDP, Lexan would work as would Corian or MDF. I made my RT insert only the minimum size needed to clear the router which adds greatly to the stiffness of the material. If you want a much larger opening you would need a stiffer material.
As with many other shop needs there is "the best" and there are many alternatives which are "good enough"...
My router table insert is 1/2 inch HDP, Lexan would work as would Corian or MDF. I made my RT insert only the minimum size needed to clear the router which adds greatly to the stiffness of the material. If you want a much larger opening you would need a stiffer material.
As with many other shop needs there is "the best" and there are many alternatives which are "good enough"...
I made my TS inserts out of Corian. 10 or so yrs ago we put in Corian countertops and I kept the sink cutout. Made great inserts. I made one for all my applications, thin kerf, dado, etc. and still use them today. They are great. Easy to work with and slick enough. Seems you could call a countertop installer and get the cut outs they don't want.
I buy HDPE cutting boards when I find them at the right price (cheap). Then I make my inserts from them. Corian works good too, if you can find a Corian countertop installer who will sell you the sink cut-out scraps cheap. I've also made them from Baltic Birch, phenolic, and Lexan with good results.
Charley
Charley
I completely agree that hardwood or BB plywood inserts are fine. I make them in batches every couple of years. If the coefficient of friction unfinished is slightly higher than phenolic -- who measures that?! -- then a couple of coats of polyurethane with sanding and a final hit with 0000 steel wool will surely do the trick.
Up until this year all my TS inserts were 100% MDF. I used 3/4" and planed it down to the correct thickness.
I just made a batch of six using 1/2" MDF with a piece of hard board glued to the top. Did this because that was the material I had left over from a recent project. Turns out, for my saw, this combination was just about the perfect thickness. I used a few pieces of tape at the four corners to bring it up flush with the table. Couple coats of poly and they are excellent inserts.
For the router I use a store bought insert. They handle the weight and I can adjust the opening required for the bit diameter I'm using. I think most of the store bought designes are a little safer than what I would build.
I just made a batch of six using 1/2" MDF with a piece of hard board glued to the top. Did this because that was the material I had left over from a recent project. Turns out, for my saw, this combination was just about the perfect thickness. I used a few pieces of tape at the four corners to bring it up flush with the table. Couple coats of poly and they are excellent inserts.
For the router I use a store bought insert. They handle the weight and I can adjust the opening required for the bit diameter I'm using. I think most of the store bought designes are a little safer than what I would build.
Tablesaw inserts are so easy and quick to make using 1/2" MDF. I spray paint mine RED and usually make 6 at a time about every 6-8 years!
Ultra High Molecular Weight (UHMW) table saw inserts and router table inserts are available at a reasonable price. They include built-in allen head leveling screws as well.
http://www.ptreeusa.com/zero_clearance.htm
http://www.ptreeusa.com/zero_clearance.htm
Years ago I bought a large scrap of 1/4" white plexiglass from a glass dealer. Don't remember what I paid, but it couldn't have been much. I made several ZCIs for the table saw I had at the time. I drilled and tapped for Allen set screws to level them. I also made others out of 3/4" hardwood ply for use with my dado set. Those I undercut with the router until they dropped into place at the right level. Haven't done any for my Jet as yet.
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