adze handle too loose

[CarvedTones]

Or maybe I am pushing the limits again. I was just trying to make this little dent in this rock maple:

And I am not sure you can tell in the blurry picture (sorry; grabbed one of my kids' cameras) but the head of my Stubai small sculpting adze is slipping off. It came off completely one time. The steel in the split at the top of the handle looks factory fresh; it has never budged. The handle is a really nice piece of tiger striped hickory; I would really like to get it to hold again rather than replacing it. I am afraid I could damage it beyond repair if I try to get the steel out of the split. Anyone dealt with something like this?

thanks!
Andy

 

[Glennbear]

I have had good results on loose tool handles in the past using this stuff::wsmile: http://www.ambroid.com/Chair-Loc.html

 

[CarvedTones]

Wow - that was quick. They say on the site that you can find it at HD "on the East Coast". Is that where you get it? I will have to try the local one. I love this tool and I am anxious to have it back in the arsenal. But it could do some major damage to the wrong things in its current state.

-Andy

 

[DaveO]

I would consider trying to get the steel wedge out of the end of the tenon and make a wider one out of some hardwood. Or remove the steel wedge and blunt it, effectively widening it to spread the tenon out farther locking the head in place.
In my experience working with a pick-ax (too often and tool much :sad1, they are designed to have a loose head that locks on a tapered tenon on the end of the handle. Often I would have to give it a good hard "tap" on the end of the handle to cause the head to wedge down farther on the tapered tenon. You adz is used in the same manor, head down with centrifugal force wedging it on the tenon...that might just do the trick :dontknow:
Dave

 

[Glennbear]

Wow - that was quick. They say on the site that you can find it at HD "on the East Coast". Is that where you get it? I will have to try the local one. I love this tool and I am anxious to have it back in the arsenal. But it could do some major damage to the wrong things in its current state.

-Andy

I have purchased it at BORG and also local hardware stores back in NJ.:wsmile:

 

[CarvedTones]

Dave,

I need to try to get a good picture in macro mode with a better camera to explian this best, but you can probably follow a description. There are no gaps at all. The steel wedge is so perfectly fitted it looks like inlay. That is why I am afraid I would damage it.

 

[Travis Porter]

Sorry about your adze, but what exactly are you building?

Quite impressive having and using an adze. Adze? That sounds like a word Bas would make up.

 

[CarvedTones]

Sorry about your adze, but what exactly are you building?

Quite impressive having and using an adze. Adze? That sounds like a word Bas would make up.

That is the beginnings of a jouhikko (a more recent post in carving shows it looking a lot more like one). I have also used the adze for some of the hollowing of a rebec and pochette fiddle. In the near future I am also planning a citole, gittern and carved body waisted vielle (that's probably enough to cost you an hour or so Googling and/or wiki surfing :rolf where it will also get some use. I do use power extensively also, but I like to do some hand work. After I put circular saw kerfs in a piece to mark depth, remove some wood and minimize splits, the adze and/or gouges and chisels arte just about as quick as anything else to get the bulk out.

I also do plan to occassionally atend Ren fairs as a craftsman and merchant, so I need the tools to set up shop like a medieval woodworker. I would probably just work on treenware at a fair.

BTW, I was impressed that Dave knew that adz is another accepted spelling, but I am not sure why he thinks I should use it in the same house (manor) as a pick ax. :rotflm:

 

[Mike Davis]

I'm am impressed to find a medieval musical instrument maker. I have a friend who makes bowed dulcimers and another who makes violins and all of that family. Even knew a harpsichord maker, but you take the prize!

I'd be proud to help you with that adze. It's just a long way to travel.

The chair repair/wood swelling product may do the trick, but a more proper repair would be to remove the wedge and install a slightly larger one. You really want to take a look at the mating surfaces inside the head and see what is happening there. It may not be fitted correctly and a little careful rasping may keep it from working loose again later.

Is your shop very dry? The low humidity may have shrunk the wood causing it to be loose.

I would mount the handle, wrapped in leather to prevent damage to the wood, in a vise and use two sharp nail punches or dull, cheap 1/4 inch chisels to pry the wedge out. You will have to do a small amount of damage to the top of the handle but it is inconsequential.

 

[CarvedTones]

Thanks for the kind words, but my talent is not quite in the prize winning category yet. I figure I have about a dozen years to semi-retirement and hope that by then I will have enough experience and exposure to stay busy and get reasonable prices for my work.

I have not found the chair swelling product yet. I did finally try to get the wedge out, but stopped when I started to get a little cracking and had only barely budged it from side to side. Below is not my tool, but a picture of a tool with the same style of wedge in it:

I love the warning on that tool - "Use onl on wood". It does look like it wood be highly effective at adjusting bad attitudes. :gar-La;
It's also perfect for the old standard piece of advice - "Don't force it; get a bigger hammer."

On the Stubai, that wedge was fitted in there incredibly well. The wood on eith side of the ends of the wedge met. It's like they routed a spot for it in the middle of the handle. Anyway, I did managae to pry it open slightly; enough to barely see some separation between the wedge and wood and it opened tiny slots on either end that I drove toothpick sized wedges of maple into and it is holding a little better. It still needs more work to do it right.

What I have is actually one of these:

I have the smaller one. I need to get a close up picture of imine. I have never seen such pretty tiger striping in hickory, so I am hesitant to replace it.

 

[Mike Davis]

I've never seen a roll pin through a head/handle like that. Should be secure.

I'm not sure I would use that method, seems like it may weaken the handle.

Another thing you may try is soaking in hot oil. The oil will penetrate the wood causing it to swell and will stay tight after it cools.

If I were doing Ren fairs I would get rid of that bright blue paint and try to acquire a nice patina on the metal.

 

[CarvedTones]

I just used that pic to show the steel wedge (and so I could sneak in some bad hammer humor). Mine is "normal".

Yes, I have thought about getting rid of the blue, and making a plain handle, but I may just keep my eye open for an old adze head (but they rarely go cheap). The Stubai is a nice tool; I am not sure I want to make it look old until it is.

 

[Bas]

Quite impressive having and using an adze. Adze? That sounds like a word Bas would make up.

Me? Make up stuff? Boy, you make a few weird comments and you're branded for life!

Actually, if you watch Roy Underhill's Woodwright Shop, you should be very familiar with the adze. It's one of his favorite tools, second only to the blivett. I believe he has a whole kipple of them in his shop.

 

[Travis Porter]

Not an easy undertaking being you are trying to save the handle. You need to get the steel wedge out IMO. Maybe drilling small stopped holes so you can get a pair of needle nose/fine tipped vise grips on it? Just a thought.

 

[jeff...]

Or maybe I am pushing the limits again. I was just trying to make this little dent in this rock maple:

And I am not sure you can tell in the blurry picture (sorry; grabbed one of my kids' cameras) but the head of my Stubai small sculpting adze is slipping off. It came off completely one time. The steel in the split at the top of the handle looks factory fresh; it has never budged. The handle is a really nice piece of tiger striped hickory; I would really like to get it to hold again rather than replacing it. I am afraid I could damage it beyond repair if I try to get the steel out of the split. Anyone dealt with something like this?

thanks!
Andy

Yep all the time - although that is some pretty cool looking hickory, I would not be afraid to dig out the wedge and add a little shim stock to either side and drive the wedge back in. Just be careful and you should be ok. If you do happen to break the handle, don't sweat it. DaveO will make a cool looking pen or 4 out of the handle for you --- Win / Win either way you look at it... ccasion1

 

[jeff...]

I would consider trying to get the steel wedge out of the end of the tenon and make a wider one out of some hardwood. Or remove the steel wedge and blunt it, effectively widening it to spread the tenon out farther locking the head in place.

Blunt it - just what are we talking about here