Advice on Spraying Shellac

[rbdoby]

I have some pieces I've built out of white pine. My plan is to seal them with orange or garnet shellac to add some color and top coat with WB poly. There are 16 pieces so forget the brush and break out the HYLP.

I've never sprayed shellac. Some sources say 1.5 lb. cut is the max. Others say a 2 lb. cut is ideal.

Any advice on spraying shellac and what cut works the best would be appreciated.

Rick Doby

 

[DavidF]

I have some pieces I've built out of white pine. My plan is to seal them with orange or garnet shellac to add some color and top coat with WB poly. There are 16 pieces so forget the brush and break out the HYLP.

I've never sprayed shellac. Some sources say 1.5 lb. cut is the max. Others say a 2 lb. cut is ideal.

Any advice on spraying shellac and what cut works the best would be appreciated.

Rick Doby

I use Target Coatings WB shellac with HVLP and it goes on effortlessly and gives a great finish. Goes very well with their WB Lacquer as well.

http://www.targetcoatings.com/shop/catalog/Oxford_UltraSeal_WB_Shellac_Sealer-10-1.html

 

[Howard Acheson]

First, let me make the point that if you are using standard shellac, you must use one that has been dewaxed if you plan to overcoat it with either an oil based poly or ANY waterborne finish. The natural wax in shellac will greatly decrease the adherence of these finishes.

As to spraying, the best advise is to spray at whatever cut you want. Shellac is very thin and sprays fairly well. Spray thin coats. After laying on, sand it level and then apply your clear coats. If you are not familiar with spraying shellac, I strongly suggest you practice on some scrap or cardboard to learn how shellac handles.

Let me also ask the question about why you feel you need to overcoat the shellac with another finish? Shellac is an excellent finish just as it is. It is tough and hard and will stand up as well as a clear waterborne finish. The same types of things that harm shellac, also harm waterborne finishes.

 

[DavidF]

I have some spare Target Shellac if you want to practise. It's a little old so would need testing before you use it on the real thing, but you could get a feel for it without buying some

 

[rbdoby]

I have some spare Target Shellac if you want to practise. It's a little old so would need testing before you use it on the real thing, but you could get a feel for it without buying some

David,

Thanks for the offer but I've all ready bought some Hock shellac flakes for this experiment. In the future I will try the Target Shellac. Sounds safer than spraying alcohol. Thanks for the info.

Rick Doby

 

[rbdoby]

Let me also ask the question about why you feel you need to overcoat the shellac with another finish? Shellac is an excellent finish just as it is. It is tough and hard and will stand up as well as a clear waterborne finish. The same types of things that harm shellac, also harm waterborne finishes.

Howard,

I guess my thinking is that I have only used shellac as a sanding sealer plus I have a bunch if WB poly on hand.

Using only shellac would save a sprayer cleanup and several coats of shellac give me a darker color on the very light white pine I'm working with.

Look like it time to do some tests on some scrap.

Rick Doby

 

[WoodWrangler]

I've been spraying (via HVLP) Bulls Eye Shellac and then topping it with the Target Coatings water-based USL (laquer). I didn't know about the "waxed" issue identified (but now I do, duh!). I can say that so far I haven't had any issue with the waxed shellac being coated with the USL

... but it does make sense and makes me sick to my stomach thinking it could have a problem. How would I know if it's having an issue? Any test I can do?

 

[JohnW]

Jeremy, If you're using Bull Eye Seal Coat...it's refined or dewaxed so you should be fine. Not sure about Bulls Eye "Traditiional" but I think it's also dewaxed. Should say so on the can.

 

[WoodWrangler]

Unfortunately, for me, I think I used the Traditional Bulls Eye product. The can doesn't say "dewaxed" specifically ... which makes me concerned.

 

[rbdoby]

Unfortunately, for me, I think I used the Traditional Bulls Eye product. The can doesn't say "dewaxed" specifically ... which makes me concerned.

Jeremy,

Check this out, it might help. Very cool site.

http://antiquesbuiltdaily.com/tips.htm


Go to the Sanding/Finishing section and look for the video on shellac.

Rick Doby

 

[Howard Acheson]

http://www.zinnser.com/product_detail.asp?ProductID=72>> Not sure about Bulls Eye "Traditiional" but I think it's also dewaxed.

Nope, the only Zinnser shellac that is dewaxed is their product called Seal Coat and their spray can shellac.

Their standard "Bulls Eye" shellac is not dewaxed.

Go to the Zinsser web site (www.zinsser.com) click on "Products" then "Clear Finishes" and you will see the Seal Coat and the other non-dewaxed shellacs.

 

[Bas]

I am a complete amateur when it comes to shellac and spraying finishes, so keep that in mind.

I've used the Zinnser shellac, both the yellow and clear kind. Both are pre-mixed and waxed. I diluted it 50% (e.g. 2 parts shellac to 1 part alcohol), and sprayed it with an Earlex HVLP (1.5mm needle). It is exceedingly forgiving. Just start spraying. I like to "layer" it, e.g. when spraying a drawer put on a light layer from all four sides, then repeat 3-4 times. You want the actual coat to be fairly "wet", but don't spray it so thick it puddles. I'm sure my technique sucks, I don't always keep my arm in robot formation etc. but it's come out great so far. It is much, much easier to work with than polyurethane (oil or WB).

I've found that shellac provides pretty good protection. I wouldn't use it on a table top, but for most things it's great.

 

[PeteQuad]

The only reason I would coat on top of Shellac is if I really needed a lot of water protection, like a table top (or an umbrella stand, which I'm building now ).

In general, when using shellac in conjunction with other finishes you should always buy the dewaxed type. Shellac can also add a lot of color if you buy it in orange or garnet, although I have gotten into the habit of getting my color from oil and topcoating with blonde shellac.

Shellac does not have a terribly long shelf life, but if you buy it in flake form it will last almost indefinitely. It's also cheaper that way. It's pretty easy to dissolve in denatured alcohol and that way you can get the cut you want. You can put it on via brush, rubbing, spraying... really a nice all around finish and relatively safe in terms of toxicity.

Shellac is also very easy to repair which can be a big plus.

 

[Tarhead]

Don't forget that we get a discount at:
http://www.shellacfinishes.biz/

I've been happy with the Shellac flakes I've bought. Price is right too.
See this post for a discount code if you're Discount qualfied:
http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/f68/discount-code-www-shellacfinishes-biz-7143/

 

[pslamp32]

I've been spraying (via HVLP) Bulls Eye Shellac and then topping it with the Target Coatings water-based USL (laquer). I didn't know about the "waxed" issue identified (but now I do, duh!). I can say that so far I haven't had any issue with the waxed shellac being coated with the USL

... but it does make sense and makes me sick to my stomach thinking it could have a problem. How would I know if it's having an issue? Any test I can do?

Trust me, you'd know. I know firsthand. It will be very obvious in the finish. I had to completely strip my last project because of just this issue. Now I always use Seal-Cote. Actually I see no reason to ever use waxed shellac.