220 Motor wire up question

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boxxmaker

New User
Ken
I got my 1 1/2 hp 220 single faze motor in,but when I went to hook it up I found out it only has two black wires coming out of it.Its been a few yrs since I hooked up a 220 motor,but it seems that they all had three different colored wires ?????????So anyone know how to get this done????
 

Woodman2k

Greg Bender
Corporate Member
Two hot wires and a ground.You should have a green chassis ground inside the the box and that will do it.
Greg
 

Ozzie-x

New User
Randy
Yep, 2 "phase" wires is all you need on single "faze" 240 volt system, black and red. Except for 120 volt motors, no motor ever requires a neutral, unless you're using some kind of funky controller that requires a neutral for the control circuit. Your circuit should have 3 conductors, 2 phase conductors and a ground. Before connecting the motor, if it's a multi-voltage motor, make sure sure it's cross connected properly for 240 volt inside the motor terminal box, should be a wiring diagram on the motor nameplate or inside the motor terminal box. Be sure and ground it properly, the ground is the most important connection. Connect the ground screw if provided or to any convenient screw or lug on the motor frame or terminal box. If it runs backwards, simply swap the two "hot" wires. Hope this helps.
 
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boxxmaker

New User
Ken
I took off the end cover and there is no other wires on this motor,just two black one coming out from inside and they are in a sealed gunk,yup hard gunk you see in motors.Here is what is on the plate.
1 1/2 hp pH 1 KVA code G
V220 HZ 50 FR 56
FLA 8.4 1425
Max Amp 40 Time rateing cont SF1.0
INS 8
XPFC A97
Class 1 Group D
I really appreciate you help folks
I just don't want to do a trial by error thing and ruin the motor
 

boxxmaker

New User
Ken
UPDATE,just got the answer from woodsaw,who I bought it from and also an electrician and was told that is the way the explosion proof motors are made,just two wires and you can just run a ground from the motor if you want,but not necessary.
 

Glennbear

Moderator
Glenn
IMHO if at all possible I would make sure the motor casing, mounting bracket or whatever metal is around should be grounded back to the panel that is feeding the circuit. The logic behind my thinking is thus: If perchance something goes awry and one of the two legs feeding the motor has an insulation failure and the motor, frame etc. becomes energized the 110V feeding that leg is going to be looking for a way back to ground and you do not want your body to become that conductor. :no: A ground conductor would prevent that. :wsmile:
 
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