Purpose:
Rip splines/moldings to consistent thicknesses on table saw.
If you make the jig to an even width, you'll be able to use your fence cursor for ease of setup.
Begin by ripping a 48" piece of MDF to 1/16" oversize. i.e. 4 1/16", 5 1/16" etc. Bigger hands will benefit from a wider piece, and you can always rip it narrower from the RH edge later.
This will give you the material for the:
1. Auxiliary fence
2. Pusher shoe
3. Front edge Stop
Rout a miter groove down the center of this 48" piece. Don't have to be exact. I typically route a 3/4" wide X 3/8" deep groove.
Next crosscut off an 8"-10" piece that will be the pusher shoe. Flip this back over onto itself and you'll see that the groove is perfectly lined up. Later you will screw and/or glue a runner in this groove. This helps keep the aux fence up against the tablesaw fence when in use and out of the blade.
On the blade side of the pusher shoe attach a mounting block of 3/4" X 2" high X 10" long hardwood, flush against the LH edge. This block keeps the pusher foot screws high and away from the blade.
Note the leading edge is radius-ed to prevent the anti-kickback pawls from interfering with pulling the shoe back after the cut. As is the pusher foot.
http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showphoto.php?photo=28474
Now rip the 2 parts to exact width. You'll need to raise the blade to trim the mounting block to make sure all parts are flush. It's critical that the pusher foot mount squarely .
Now you can install the handle, runner, and pusher foot. I use 1/8" tempered hardboard when cutting splines and 1/2" plywood when cutting off molding strips.
Crosscut the excess from the aux fence (no need to be longer that the tablesaw fence) for use as a stop to prevent the fence from sliding forward with the pusher shoe. I glued a magnet, recessed on the inside to help prevent aux fence movement.
http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showphoto.php?photo=4834
Apply finish & wax for for smooth operation.
I always use the saw guard when ripping and have to keep the thicker pusher feet, like the mounting block well waxed to slip off the anti-backup pawls.
Rip splines/moldings to consistent thicknesses on table saw.
If you make the jig to an even width, you'll be able to use your fence cursor for ease of setup.
Begin by ripping a 48" piece of MDF to 1/16" oversize. i.e. 4 1/16", 5 1/16" etc. Bigger hands will benefit from a wider piece, and you can always rip it narrower from the RH edge later.
This will give you the material for the:
1. Auxiliary fence
2. Pusher shoe
3. Front edge Stop
Rout a miter groove down the center of this 48" piece. Don't have to be exact. I typically route a 3/4" wide X 3/8" deep groove.
Next crosscut off an 8"-10" piece that will be the pusher shoe. Flip this back over onto itself and you'll see that the groove is perfectly lined up. Later you will screw and/or glue a runner in this groove. This helps keep the aux fence up against the tablesaw fence when in use and out of the blade.
On the blade side of the pusher shoe attach a mounting block of 3/4" X 2" high X 10" long hardwood, flush against the LH edge. This block keeps the pusher foot screws high and away from the blade.
Note the leading edge is radius-ed to prevent the anti-kickback pawls from interfering with pulling the shoe back after the cut. As is the pusher foot.
http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showphoto.php?photo=28474
Now rip the 2 parts to exact width. You'll need to raise the blade to trim the mounting block to make sure all parts are flush. It's critical that the pusher foot mount squarely .
Now you can install the handle, runner, and pusher foot. I use 1/8" tempered hardboard when cutting splines and 1/2" plywood when cutting off molding strips.
Crosscut the excess from the aux fence (no need to be longer that the tablesaw fence) for use as a stop to prevent the fence from sliding forward with the pusher shoe. I glued a magnet, recessed on the inside to help prevent aux fence movement.
http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showphoto.php?photo=4834
Apply finish & wax for for smooth operation.
I always use the saw guard when ripping and have to keep the thicker pusher feet, like the mounting block well waxed to slip off the anti-backup pawls.
