Thin Parts Ripping Jig

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Joe Scharle

New User
Joe
Purpose:
Rip splines/moldings to consistent thicknesses on table saw.

If you make the jig to an even width, you'll be able to use your fence cursor for ease of setup.




Begin by ripping a 48" piece of MDF to 1/16" oversize. i.e. 4 1/16", 5 1/16" etc. Bigger hands will benefit from a wider piece, and you can always rip it narrower from the RH edge later.
This will give you the material for the:
1. Auxiliary fence
2. Pusher shoe
3. Front edge Stop

Rout a miter groove down the center of this 48" piece. Don't have to be exact. I typically route a 3/4" wide X 3/8" deep groove.

Next crosscut off an 8"-10" piece that will be the pusher shoe. Flip this back over onto itself and you'll see that the groove is perfectly lined up. Later you will screw and/or glue a runner in this groove. This helps keep the aux fence up against the TS fence when in use and out of the blade.



On the blade side of the pusher shoe attach a mounting block of 3/4" X 2" high X 10" long hardwood, flush against the LH edge. This block keeps the pusher foot screws high and away from the blade.
Note the leading edge is radius-ed to prevent the anti-kickback pawls from interfering with pulling the shoe back after the cut. As is the pusher foot.



Now rip the 2 parts to exact width. You'll need to raise the blade to trim the mounting block to make sure all parts are flush. It's critical that the pusher foot mount squarely .



Now you can install the handle, runner, and pusher foot. I use 1/8" tempered hardboard when cutting splines and 1/2" plywood when cutting off molding strips.



Crosscut the excess from the aux fence (no need to be longer that the TS fence) for use as a stop to prevent the fence from sliding forward with the pusher shoe. I glued a magnet, recessed on the inside to help prevent aux fence movement.

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showphoto.php?photo=28469


Apply finish & wax for for smooth operation.

I always use the saw guard when ripping and have to keep the thicker pusher feet, like the mounting block well waxed to slip off the anti-backup pawls.
 

Bas

Recovering tool addict
Bas
Corporate Member
Joe, I'd move the second-to-last image (picture of hardboard) one paragraph up. That way, both paragraphs relate to the picture, making it easier to understand.

Also, I found that the MDF fence and shoe required about 60 coats of wax before it was smooth. Sealing it with something like poly first would be quicker.
 

Canuck

Wayne
Corporate Member
Well Done Joe!!!!:eusa_danc:eusa_danc

Very clear and easy to follow!

Thanks

Wayne
 
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