Table Saw Splitter..

[SgtSnafu]

Hey Everyone,

Anyone had any experience with the Micro Jig Splitter Steel Pro System?
http://www.microjig.com/products/mj-splitter-steel-pro/design-concept.shtml

What are your thoughts? What are good alternatives?

Thanks in advance for your time...

 

[dave]

Hey! I don't have any experience yet, but I did purchase this system based on some online reviews and several positive comments from users here. I've just not had a chance to install it.

Check out this thread: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/f31/mj-splitter-safe-31051/?highlight=microjig


Dave

 

[SgtSnafu]

Hey Dave,

Thanks for the quick response, and the link. Did you get the Thin or Standard version? I have thin kerf blades and standard kerf blades, and do not really want to purchase both versions, but may end up doing just that...

Thanks again

 

[HMH]

I've got the full-kerf, (1/8") version, and love it. Initial set-up takes a bit, but it's pretty straight forward and much safer than the alternative.

If you regularly use both thin & full-kerf blades, you'll need both sets of splitter, (mounted in their own ZCI). Using the full-kerf splitter with a thin-kerf blade will bind the stock at the splitter (1/8">1/16"), and using a thin-kerf splitter w/ a full-kerf blade comes close to not using a splitter at all, since the stock could kick back into the blade before it hit the splitter, (1/16"<1/8")

Hope this helps.

 

[dave]

I bought both as I have a ZCI for my thin kerf blades. Like Heath said, I think you'll probably want both.

Dave

 

[junquecol]

I'm from the other school. I make my own ZCI's and built a jig to cut both blade slot, splitter slot, or RIVING KNIFE slot in one setting. I can add a splitter in whatever width I need. Because alignment is based upon actual blade in use, there is no fit up problems. Once and done.

 

[JackLeg]

I'm from the other school. I make my own ZCI's and built a jig to cut both blade slot, splitter slot, or RIVING KNIFE slot in one setting. I can add a splitter in whatever width I need. Because alignment is based upon actual blade in use, there is no fit up problems. Once and done.

Bruce: Is that thing available yet or is this the one you sold the rights to? :icon_scra I'd love to see it, AND use it!! :icon_thum
:wsmile:

 

[SgtSnafu]

Hey Bruce,
Actually I too would love to see your jig and method.

I did run across this... http://www.leestyron.com/sharksplitter.php. After reading this some, I decided I could actually do a similar thing, but in aluminum. Anyone have thoughts on that?

 

[junquecol]

I haven't sold the rights yet, but I can't post pictures here. I will try to remember to bring to the picnic though. Actual jig is so simple, I'm surprised that someone didn't think of it years ago. Besides making slot for splitter that is EXACTLY in line with and same width as the blade, it can do the extended slot for a riving knife.

 

[Tarhead]

I did run across this... http://www.leestyron.com/sharksplitter.php. After reading this some, I decided I could actually do a similar thing, but in aluminum. Anyone have thoughts on that?

I have Lee Styron's Shorty splitter attached with a quick release ratchet handle on my Unisaw and like it a lot. It's probably been off and on 100 times and works flawlessly. One of the best things I've spent $20 on in my shop. It prevented a kickback while ripping a 6" X 6' piece of 3/4 plywood this afternoon. The edge against the rip fence was not straight and the piece jambed against the splitter.

You're counting on a splitter to take a lot of force. Alumininum + Force = Easy Bend?

 

[SgtSnafu]

You're counting on a splitter to take a lot of force. Aluminum + Force = Easy Bend?

I believe your right, I will go with steel. I was originally thinking aluminum for the ease of being able to make it, but steel will not be that much tougher to make it out of, plus would be much safer!

Thank you everyone for your input and comments here !!