Schwarz Workbench and SYP

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Tarhead

Mark
Corporate Member
For all the folks in the CLT metro area reading this, I got my SYP lumber for my shed from Randy in Waxhaw (Woodbutcher here at NCWW). http://woodbutchernc.tripod.com/
Don't even think about the BORGs.

Plan on stacking and stickering and ratchet strapping the stack for a long while regardless of where you get it.
 

James Davis

New User
James Davis
Try looking at the 2X12s at H-D. They tend to make the wider stuff out of the better raw materials. With a 2X12 you can get three rips out of each piece or maybe have a little more material to work with. In the Durham area, Talbert's has a good supply of SYP and also Stock Building Materials has a good selection. But Think Wide for better material.

James
 

tjgreen

New User
Tim
Thanks all, great advice. I need to spend more time on the download library, went there to look at bench plans and got terribly distracted. I've got a number of 2x4s and 2x8s on hand already from various projects, will go through it and see what's usable. Sifted the pile at HD enough to know better, will hit a builder's supply for the rest.

One more question (for now): the PM plan uses round holes. The BobandDave's plan uses square holes, saying round holes go oval over time. Either way seems pretty easy, either a drill press or a dado. If I go square, can I use a round dog or holdfast in a square hole? Is it worth putting in two rows, one of each?

Jim - fwiw, I've had pretty good luck on framing lumber and trim with Builder's First Source, lot less culling than the BORG. Their big warehouse is in Hillsborough. The one in Wake Forest used to let me look over their stock, dunno if they would too.
 

wghatcher

New User
Greg
After reading through all the replies, I am leaning towards building the top out of hardwood. The best choices seem to be Hard Maple, Ash, or Beech.

Can anyone point me towards a good deal on Hardwoods in the Cary/Apex/Raleigh area?

I might still consider the base from SYP. It seems that more of the problems were with the top - obviously that is where the bulk of the wood is.

Greg
 
T

toolferone

I am leaning towards building the top out of hardwood. The best choices seem to be Hard Maple, Ash, or Beech.
Greg


Yes, you could use hard maple, but no real need to. Soft maple is just as hard, easier to work, costs, and easier to find.
 

tjgreen

New User
Tim
Yes, you could use hard maple, but no real need to. Soft maple is just as hard, easier to work, costs, and easier to find.

Tom, do you mean just as hard as hard maple, or just as hard as SYP? From reserch on my hardwood floor, I vaguely remember that soft maple was about as hard as SYP, but as I recall hard maple was quite a bit harder than either.
 

eyekode

New User
Salem
Greg,
I am leaning toward picking up the wood for the top from saw4u (Jack in Rolesville: http://raleigh.craigslist.org/mat/1802527169.html). I got a quote from him a while ago and his 8/4 kiln dried was 2.20 bd/ft. This is local maple so it is soft maple and probably is not clear (slightly ambrosia), but IMHO it should be fine for a workbench.

If you find better let me know, I am in the same boat :).
Salem
 
T

toolferone

Tom, do you mean just as hard as hard maple, or just as hard as SYP? From reserch on my hardwood floor, I vaguely remember that soft maple was about as hard as SYP, but as I recall hard maple was quite a bit harder than either.

So, I found a wood hardness scale and SYP is about 700, soft maple about 1000 and hard maple 1450. I have used soft maple on lots of items and it seems plenty hard for me. I can't dig my fingernail in like I can with SYP.

Well that's my .02 cents worth.
 

eyekode

New User
Salem
I have bought some lumber from Jack and it turned out fairly well.

But today I went ahead and bought lumber for my bench. There is a local guy in Apex with a sawmill who occasionally sells wood. I picked up ~115 bd/ft of 8/4 QSWO today. He only charges .75$ per bd/ft for the not too wide stuff. I have bought from him before and although it is not the greatest quality the lumber I think it will work for a bench. The wood I bought today is mostly clear and straight for 8 feet. There are also some small holes that may be powder post beetles so I will be treating the lumber before using it (planning on leaving it in some trash bags on these 100 degree days :)).

Expect a post soon containing my workbench plans!
Salem
 

Tarhead

Mark
Corporate Member
Watch those bugs! They can ruin your lumber stash if you're not careful.
If the wood isn't kiln dried you may want to consider it. Some of the experts should chime in here but I don't think you'll do much to the beetles with black garbage bags and may end up with more issues related to uneven drying.
 

eyekode

New User
Salem
Mark,
I read that getting the lumber up to ~140 for a couple hours will kill the larva. This is the intent of the black tarp/bags. I think I actually read this from Scott Smith on sawmill creek :).

For me I am not sure kiln dried lumber even makes sense for a bench. My "workshop" is my garage so air dried should be the equilibrium moisture content for the bench.

Anyway I appreciate the comment and any other information on how to be sure everything is dead is more than welcome :).

Salem
 

eyekode

New User
Salem
I have used this stuff before from the same guy. I made various shop stuff out of it before I knew anything about power post beetles. But I have never seen new damage (i.e. no new dusty holes ). Reading about them I believe the typically emerge in June and I had the lumber well before that.

Anyway my plan is to coat all of my wood with a borate pesticide. They say it is virtually non-toxic and even if this lumber doesn't have PPB who knows about the next batch as I tend to buy air dried lumber.

Paul is a nice guy and if you want to contact him his number is: 387-8309
He lives out near the end of Olive Chapel Rd.

Good luck!
Salem
 
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