Questions about building a Workbench top

[Guy in Paradise]

Hi all,

I am a teacher and traveling to my Virginia mountain vacation home this weekend to stay for the summer, and I got it in my head to build a woodworking bench. After two months of research, I think I am settling on a bench that is a combination of Christopher Schwarz's Roubo workbench (Woodworking magazine Autumn 2005 and Popular Woodworking June 2007) and Cliff's bench (at www.user.dccnet.com/cedwards/bench/bench.htm). I already purchased the vises and the major tools for the job, but most of my tools remain here in Cuba, even though I can still throw one in the suit case if need be.

The major decisions I am still trying to resolve is whether to build the top or buy one? Second, if I make the top, what to make it out of? And third, what size should it be?

Many of the top builders glue and plane the top in sections and then biscuit the sections together. One builder dowels each board so that the boards will remain aligned during glue-up. The school shop teacher says to just nail the boards in the middle to ensure reasonable alignment, to not get a warped fan look. Some slabs I see even have metal rods going through the width. It seems that warping during glue-up is a concern. So, wanting a flat top when I get done, I am a little concerned about whether I should attempt to build a top or buy one. I do have a good router and have considered routing the top with a track and sled arrangement that others have done. I figure my top will be about 40 to 45 board feet, so materials could be any from $100 to $400 before gluing. Perfect bench (www.perfectplank.com) sells almost what I want in maple, 2 7/8" thick x 25" x 8' for $334. So what should I do, make or buy?

If I do build the top, I was first lured to Christopher Schwarz's article, where he makes his bench out of Southern yellow pine. Fair idea, until the hardness and density of yellow pine is compared to other woods. The hardness of yellow pine is about half that of birch, oak, beech, maple, and almost a third of harder woods like hickory. Yellow pine's density is classified as a light wood. I like Christopher Schwarz's articles, but I am not sure about this choice of wood for my bench, a bench that I would like to think will last a long time and be passed along in the family. I live near Independence, VA. Any information on what I should/could make the bench out of?

Lastly, I am still deciding on the size of the bench top. Again I like Schwarz's rationale for a 24" deep top, perhaps leaning towards a couple of inches more. I have a shop space of 12' x 24', and am tending towards making the top about 75" long, and after the vises are installed would make it about 7' long. I would like to the top to be at least 2.25" with 3 to 4" being better. Schwarz makes his 4" thick and that seems to work well with the pinch vise he has, which I also want to include. So folks, what do you think, what size should provide the best benchtop?

Thank-you in advance for all input,
Guy

 

[McRabbet]

Guy,

I saw this thread shortly after you posted it and I'm very surprised that nobody has responded yet -- I just finished applying a coat of Arm-R-Seal on six cabinets I'm building and I just am getting back to give you my two cents. First, I like the style of bench that is in Cliff's website link -- the Bob Key design is solid and I like his "knock-down' feature. But I strongly recommend against using the softwood that he used -- it just won;t hold up and I'm sure he regrets it now. I'd recommend either Hard or Soft Maple for the top and the same or Ash for the legs and stretchers. Hard Maple is preferred and it should be 8/4 stock. A 60" long bench is the minimum and you might consider 72" - 80", plus the tail vise.

I also recommend that you review the most popular thread on this forum, Monty's Workbench Project, which provides lots of construction details on his beauty. While you can buy a top, you won't have the flexibility to put in square bench dog holes where you want them. Hope this helps.

 

[Gofor]

Having built one not too long ago (picures in gallery), I would say the first question you should ask yourself is for what you plan to use the bench. Hand tools or power tools? Cabinets, chairs, or end tables? General purpose or woodworking?

I have found that the need dictates the vises, and the vises determine the design. Size is predicated on space, cost of materials, and ultimate size of intended work. I built mine primarily for hand tool woodworking. I "stole" the basic design from Monty with a few alterations. His is a very good dual use (hand and power tool) bench. I also used my bench project as a way to improve my design and woodworking skills. The knowledge and skills I gained in making it far surpassed the worth of the bench itself. If the time investment in making it yourself will be worth it to you in skills and knowledge gained, make it yourself. If your objective is a tool to help you in your work, buy what will work with the hardware you have. If you make it from scratch yourself, you might find it the most challenging (and possibly time consuming) project you have yet done.

JMTCW

Go

 

[NCPete]

Guy, I will be building a bench similar to Monty's here soon, and may be ordering a top for it, too.... like to see what is said here. cedwards link is broken...

 

[Tarhead]

www.user.dccnet.com/cedwards/bench/bench.htm

 

[PeteM]

Rob -
"-- the Bob Key design is solid and I like his "knock-down' feature. But I strongly recommend against using the softwood that he used -- it just won;t hold up and I'm sure he regrets it now. "

I gotta disagree with you on this one. I (and many, many other folks in the past) have a 3" thick benchtop of SYP and I don't regret it a bit. It is solid, heavy, and will last much longer than I will. I don't worry about dings, stains, glue drips, etc. If it gets really bad I can take a plane to it and with a little elbow grease it looks like new again. It all depends on how you are going to use the bench and personal preference.

Just my 2 cents
pete

 

[Guy in Paradise]

Cliff's Bench Project link

Here is the link again, the one previously included the ) which shouldn't have been in the address.

http://www.user.dccnet.com/cedwards/bench/bench.htm

I am surprised more folks haven't offered up some advice on my questions. I thought that posting to my local woodworkers would provide good knowledge in how to build the bench and what wood to select.

Guy

 

[MikeH]

I'm in the process of designing my bench so I'm not a whole lot of help. I have a pattern makers bench top that I bought from Tarhead and will soon be building the base from the black walnut and maple that I have. I would suggest building it out of the hard Maple or Ash. I would have to say the adventure of building it myself is exciting. I don't plan on using any metal fasteners other than possibly steel rods for the top to slide down on the base.

Monty and Woodguy would be the two people I would talk to concerning workbenches.

 

[jeff...]

I'm in the process of designing my bench so I'm not a whole lot of help. I have a pattern makers bench top that I bought from Tarhead and will soon be building the base from the black walnut and maple that I have. I would suggest building it out of the hard Maple or Ash. I would have to say the adventure of building it myself is exciting. I don't plan on using any metal fasteners other than possibly steel rods for the top to slide down on the base.

Monty and Woodguy would be the two people I would talk to concerning workbenches.

Would Hickory make a good benchtop - it's hard as a brick...

 

[MikeH]

Would Hickory make a good benchtop - it's hard as a brick...

I would think so. It would certainly be durable!

 

[Guy in Paradise]

I think hickory would be a fine wood

...and I am hoping that is available in my wood shopping area. If you know of any place that would have it nearby, please let me know. My shopping area is around Troutdale, VA, from Independence, to Galax, to Wytheville. I am also going to Johnson City, TN, on Thursday.

Thank-you for any information you can provide,
Guy

 

[Tarhead]

Guy,
We have a few members from the Mt. Airy area and I'm sure they will chime in. Wall Lumber is a safe bet and kind of close by (north of Greensboro). Also keep checking the "Materials" for sale category on www.craigslist.org (you will need to scan the different locations in Tri cities, Blacksburg, Roanoke, Danville, Greensboro, etc) as HW lumber shows up frequently.

 

[mshel]

Re: Cliff's Bench Project link

Here is the link again, the one previously included the ) which shouldn't have been in the address.

http://www.user.dccnet.com/cedwards/bench/bench.htm

I am surprised more folks haven't offered up some advice on my questions. I thought that posting to my local woodworkers would provide good knowledge in how to build the bench and what wood to select.

Guy

Guy,

I made my entire bench out of SYP which I resawed from beams which came out of a warehouse. I have had it in use for about a year now and yes, I have dinged it and dented it but it still serves me well. If it gets to the point where it is too shabby looking, I will plane the top flat again and start over. I made mine 2 3/4" thick which is a gracious plenty. I also made the bottom section out of pine and believe me it is more than adaquate. I wanted a good user bench and also wanted something I could afford quickly. The wood was free so the cost was not an issue. If you are considering SYP, I would not look at Borg stuff, it is just too wet to work properly. This is just my two cents.

Here are some pics










Mike

 

[Gofor]

Hi all,...
Lastly, I am still deciding on the size of the bench top. Again I like Schwarz's rationale for a 24" deep top, perhaps leaning towards a couple of inches more. I have a shop space of 12' x 24', and am tending towards making the top about 75" long, and after the vises are installed would make it about 7' long. I would like to the top to be at least 2.25" with 3 to 4" being better. Schwarz makes his 4" thick and that seems to work well with the pinch vise he has, which I also want to include. So folks, what do you think, what size should provide the best benchtop?

Thank-you in advance for all input,
Guy

You want the width small enough that you can reach across the top to get tools out of the till on the other side (if you put the tool tray alongside it). Depending on the length of your arms and the heighth of the table, 25" may be a bit wide. Mine is 22" which works well for me.
If you are planing to use hold-fasts, that section will need to be at least 2" thick, and more so if possible. This can be done by adding thickness in the area of the hold-fast hole. If using holdfasts and bench dogs, the harder woods will hold up better around the holes than pine over repeated usage.
It is best to have the dogs and holdfasts in hand before cutting the holes, unless you are going to make your own square bench dogs.
As for table height, I have seen recommendations that the table should be at the same level as your knuckles with your arms hanging relaxed by your side. I am only 5'8" but I have long arms for my height (31" sleeve). I found that having the top a couple inches higher is more comfortable to me (I do a lot of hand-planing). If the table is too short, your back will suffer. However, it is easier to raise up a short table than to lower one that is too tall. Many make the table the same height as their table saw to use as an outfeed table when needed. In my case, that would be too high (tablesaw is 36" tall and my bench is 33"). If you have a bench or table you use now to do the work you intend to do, adjust your new bench as necessary to make the work as comfortable as possible.
I used white oak for the top (SYP for the base). If you are going to hand plane it flat, white oak and hickory are tough to work with, especially when the grain changes. A closer-grained wood like hard maple may be easier to flatten. If you do use oak or hickory, make sure the grain is running the same direction on all the top boards to allow easier planing in the future. Try to use the face of the boards that do not have a grain direction change.

Just a few more thoughts

Go

 

[stoneskippers]

Here is the link to a downloadable set of plans with detail instruction and picture ( which I needed ) for the workbench I built. Hope it helps



http://pages.friendlycity.net/~krucker/Bench/index.htm

 

[Guy in Paradise]

Some Workbench decisions made

Well I have made one quick bench. I found a local sawmill that had straight, rough cut hemlock 2x4s and a couple of 1x6s, about 96 board feet for $57. Followed the plan at http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/worktabl/tablefig.htm Made the base out the unplaned wood. Worked out great. Planing what is left to make the top, which will be 2 inches thick. I will publish a picture when it is completed.

Also found a a contractor selling some oak beams left over from a job. 4x8s and 5x12s, planed on all four sides and been drying out for six months. Should work out well for the quality bench that is my next project. Still going to use the heavy duty base idea and probably make the top 3.5 to 4 inches.

Still appreciate all ideas and suggestions,
Guy

 

[Guy in Paradise]

Flattening the top

I forgot to mention that a local wookworking furniture shop agreed to take the top and run it through their 36 inch sander and smooth it all out for $20. Should work out well, even if the top has some alignment imperfections after gluing up the final slab.

Guy