Leigh Jig Storage Case w/*Pics*

[Alan in Little Washington]

At Insomniac's suggestion I am posting this. He thought some of you (DavidO?) might get a kick out of it.

In the following project completed a few years ago, I tried to combine into a single piece- a storage box and a work base for my Leigh D4 dovetail jig. I tried to build it so the jig would not need to be removed from and actually stay bolted to the storage case- and something that would be quick and easy to use. The case is the work base and raises the jig to a comfortable height above he bench to use the the router and jig.

The box is made from birch ply. The bottom of the case extends past the sides of the box so the assembly can be clamped to a workbench. It works well. I need to get some better latches. The pics are pretty much self explanatory. I used cardboard templates to play around with and verify the geometry and operation of the box before cutting any ply.

The biggest drawback- unfortunately, due to the size of the jig, resultant box size, and the fact that I used 3/4" ply- this thing is heavy!!!! Oh, well, it was a challenging design project.

I have too many other things to do before I put this case on a diet. When I and if I do remake the case, I will likely add a bit/parts drawer to the front of the rotating base beween the rectangular openings.

Closed storage case:

The front unlatches and drops down to expose the jig (which is mounted upside-down):

The jig and part of the case top rotate (pivot pin is next to the carrying handle):

And rotate:

The jig ends up on top:

The front of the case, once closed and latched, supports the front of the jig base (case top)

 

[McRabbet]

Nifty, Alan. What are the rectangular opening for? Clamp clearance or access to the nuts on the bolts anchoring the jig? Agree that the space between those openings would make a neat place for a parts drawer as long as stuff didn't fall out when inverted.

Rob.

 

[Monty]

I can't believe how many original ideas you have come up with! Keep on posting! :icon_thum

 

[sapwood]

Ever clever Alan :icon_thum

And I sure that Insom, DavidF, and yourself could trick out the storage case with a motor :lol:

Engineering excellence certainly adds value to woodworking.

Sapwood

 

[Alan in Little Washington]

Nifty, Alan. What are the rectangular opening for? Clamp clearance or access to the nuts on the bolts anchoring the jig? Agree that the space between those openings would make a neat place for a parts drawer as long as stuff didn't fall out when inverted.

Rob.

If I remember, just access to the bolts.

 

[McRabbet]

If I remember, just access to the bolts.

In the next version, why not use T-nuts for the jig hold-down bolts and then your parts drawer could be nearly full width....:eusa_thin
Rob

 

[Alan in Little Washington]

In the next version, why not use T-nuts for the jig hold-down bolts and then your parts drawer could be nearly full width....:eusa_thin
Rob

Can't get to the bolt heads- in capture grooves in bottom of the jig.

 

[DaveO]

Now that just plain ingenious :eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap

Dave

 

[D L Ames]

Wow, another cool and innovative design Alan. You definitely come up with some interesting concepts. How long did it take you to design your shop? With the pix you have posted of the hoist, DC trap doors, etc, it looks like you put a lot of thought into it before you started construction.

D L

 

[Travis Porter]

Quite nifty. I have the same if not an older version of the same jig. I stick it under a bench and it is a PITA that way. So, if you did it again, would you use 1/2 inch baltic birch for the sides and bottom to cut down on weight? I would suspect you would still use the 3/4 for the mounting assembly for the jig?

 

[Alan in Little Washington]

Travis- I would likely try frame and panel on the next version with solid wood for the frames and other areas that need strength, but use thin 1/4 ply for the panels.

Wow, another cool and innovative design Alan. You definitely come up with some interesting concepts. How long did it take you to design your shop? With the pix you have posted of the hoist, DC trap doors, etc, it looks like you put a lot of thought into it before you started construction.

D L

I did spend a lot of time thinking of things, only to change my mind or redo things. I think I will never be happy with the major tool layout, need more space- don't we always? We moved in the house in Nov '04 and the totally unfinished shop space was just a dumping ground, actually storage for the big tools and triwall boxes of every thing else. Between new house "honeydo's" and other distractions, like no heat or AC it took me awhile to get going. Last spring and summer I framed in the stairwell, a small office, sink area, and commode area, wired multiple 110V/20A, 220V/20A (and two 220V/30A) outlets. I had a 100A subpanel preinstalled when the house was built. I and installed and wired the compressor (in garage) and compressed air line around shop, installed the DC piping (also made a new cyclone), mounted and wired the DC blower and cyclone, remounted the hoist, and insullated everything. This fall I rocked, mudded, and painted the walls. Earlier this spring I installed oak stair treads and risers, and painted the floor. Lately I've been getting my tools set up and been building benches, improvements, etc. most posted here. I work in fits and starts to avoid burnout and the wrath of LOML.

 

[Travis Porter]

Been there done all of that, with the exception of the mud work. I started doing the mud work when I built my shop, and I have learned that I am really bad at it. Had a friend come over who used to be a professional sheetrock finisher and he made me quit. According to him (which I agree with) I am bad at hanging sheet rock as well. He had to tape around all but two electrical boxes that I had installed. I put in 48 receptacles so he used quite a bit of profanity at me.

I go in the same mode as you a lot. Fits and spurts when I can get away with it.

It all looks quite impressive and you are doing some very neat stuff.