Is this Bearing still in good shape?

Status
Not open for further replies.

MrAudio815

New User
Matthew
Merry Christmas NCWW's,


I pulled this bearin off the straight blade cutter head on my jointer and wanted to know if it still looks good enough to use on the Shelix cutterhead?

Don't wan't to get it on and it not be good.

Chipped black stuff right side middle


Closer view of other side



Thanks for the help~! :notworthy:
 

Gofor

Mark
Corporate Member
I agree with Earl. Get a new one if its not too big a pain to find and keep this one for an emergency spare.

JMTCW

Go
 

MrAudio815

New User
Matthew
Bearings are cheap enough to go ahead and replace if you have any doubts



:BangHead: Dang I was hoping you guys would say that it looks good and use it, I most certainly want to get this Jointer up and running.

I know I can put the chipped black part towards the back of the pillow block which is sealed off, that way at least no dust can get down inside it...??? :eusa_thin

What do you think? I so want to use this machine tonight~!
 

Mark Gottesman

New User
Mark
I don't think there is any certain way you can tell from the outside. The chipped shield may or may not be problem. However, if you think, for any reason, that this bearing is damaged. Say, you pulled it off by the outer hub, or something that might have crunched the grease shield, flatted a bearing, scored a race. Then just go ahead and order a new bearing from Accurate Bearing and sleep easy knowing you have a good bearing in there. In fact, put in a new pair, probably under $20.00 delivered. It is a low cost route to a good nights sleep. Believe me, you never/ever want a jointer to get kranky at speed.

That's my $0.02.
 

MrAudio815

New User
Matthew
I don't think there is any certain way you can tell from the outside. The chipped shield may or may not be problem. However, if you think, for any reason, that this bearing is damaged. Say, you pulled it off by the outer hub, or something that might have crunched the grease shield, flatted a bearing, scored a race. Then just go ahead and order a new bearing from Accurate Bearing and sleep easy knowing you have a good bearing in there. In fact, put in a new pair, probably under $20.00 delivered. It is a low cost route to a good nights sleep. Believe me, you never/ever want a jointer to get kranky at speed.

That's my $0.02.


That last statement sounds good enough to me. I put the part number in for the bearing at Accurate Bearing, and it can't find it? Any help please?

It's 6004-2RZ made by SHEN? And here is the Grizzly manual page 52.

Thanks for the help.... PS when I turn the bearing in my hand I don't feel any grabbing, catching, or play, it feels smooth and tight.
 

MrAudio815

New User
Matthew
Ah is this the bearing I need? To replace the Grizzly G0490 6004-2RZ bearing?

The 6004-ZZ or the 6004-LL ??? They both have the same dimensions.
 

Mark Gottesman

New User
Mark
Here is a bearing thread with bearing buying info and contact info for Accurate Bearing.

http://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=68545


I am not sure what the ZZ vs the LL difference is. I suspect it refers to the type of seal on the side, but Lynne or someone else at Accurate can get you sorted out.

Make sure you put everything back together and recheck it several times before powering up.
Following link points to a thread where the blades seem to have gotten loose, but it is moot.
http://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=85400&hilit=jointer+accident

Yes, bearings often feel great, but since I don't have any way to ascertain bearing condition, it just seems wiser to err on the side of caution. Once they are replaced and things are running fine it will be a long time till replacement is needed. I work on old machinery so I just look on the new bearings as part of the job. If nothing else, I am sure the grease has decomposed.
 

aplpickr

New User
Bill
Think about the physics of the spinning cutter head. That black piece is what keeps the lube within the balls where it belongs. Any deflection/vibration in one end due to failure causes deflection in the other end, which leads to that bearing's failure also. Change both bearings. What is your time worth, cost of ruined wood, catatrophic failure which could lead to the cutter hitting the jointers housing? I have seen sudden failure of this class of bearings where the balls get loose, fly across the room, and clearances change by a 1/4 inch! This is not the time for false economy. Just the physical strain of removing and re-installing this bearing could lead to its failure. Be sure in installing that you press ONLY on the part of the bearing under the strain. Don't press on the outer race when pushing the bearing onto the cutter shaft. Use appropiate sized deep-well sockets to push the bearings on. Pipe nipples work also. The interference of steel to steel works (bearing race to shaft), the same interference transferred thru the balls cause microscopic scoring which later leads to failure and NOISE. When you removed the bearing from the cutter head: Did you nick the black piece with a screw driver? What unseen damage did you do? During forty years of industrial maintence, we always trashed any used bearing that had been pressed onto a shaft! What is the RPM of the head? Do you need to purchase a better rated grade of bearing? A couple of extra dollars /bearing can bring much additional bearing life. :)
 

MrAudio815

New User
Matthew
Think about the physics of the spinning cutter head. That black piece is what keeps the lube within the balls where it belongs. Any deflection/vibration in one end due to failure causes deflection in the other end, which leads to that bearing's failure also. Change both bearings. What is your time worth, cost of ruined wood, catatrophic failure which could lead to the cutter hitting the jointers housing? I have seen sudden failure of this class of bearings where the balls get loose, fly across the room, and clearances change by a 1/4 inch! This is not the time for false economy. Just the physical strain of removing and re-installing this bearing could lead to its failure. Be sure in installing that you press ONLY on the part of the bearing under the strain. Don't press on the outer race when pushing the bearing onto the cutter shaft. Use appropiate sized deep-well sockets to push the bearings on. Pipe nipples work also. The interference of steel to steel works (bearing race to shaft), the same interference transferred thru the balls cause microscopic scoring which later leads to failure and NOISE. When you removed the bearing from the cutter head: Did you nick the black piece with a screw driver? What unseen damage did you do? During forty years of industrial maintence, we always trashed any used bearing that had been pressed onto a shaft! What is the RPM of the head? Do you need to purchase a better rated grade of bearing? A couple of extra dollars /bearing can bring much additional bearing life. :)


Wow thanks for all the info.

I will buy two more bearings, but how do I know if they are better than the grizzly brand bearings? Or are any bearings bought elsewhere better than Grizzly's bearings?

by the way I already got the old bearing on, turned it on, then off immediately. checked everything to make sure blades were still tight, not to close to the beds, then turned it on again body away from jointer.

It purr's like a kitten, sounds like it was running fine, good. The cutterhead moves freely/easily when it's turned off and I spin it by hand.

I did however put the bearing in the pillow block then onto the shaft of the cutterhead with a mallet, I didn't use a socket as you suggested and think after I read your post that I may have scored it using a mallet like that????? And guessing it may not last very long. So it looks like I will be getting some more bearings and reapeating this process again.

Matthew
 

aplpickr

New User
Bill
This suggestion is only to be done, IF IT CAN BE DONE SAFELY. Use a long screwdriver as a stethoscope. Put the tip on the bearning housing, put the handle on your ear flap, and push the flap closed by pressing against bearing. spin by hand or under power (IF SAFE). You can hear screaches, bumps, grinds, scrapes, scratches, roaring, pops, etc. You can even tell if grease is needed. If anything other than a smooth whirl is heard, then failure is coming. This will show up the micro-scoring caused by improper installation. The hardness of the races and balls is super. Consequently there is NO allowance for being beat on by a hammer. Go to a bearing house. They will have several grades of bearings Chinese, Polish, and quality American or German. The part # will be the same. Say $8, $10, and $12. Mallets and presses are OK. Just push on the inner race to install on the shaft. Push on the outer race to install in the mount or end-bell of a motor.
 
Last edited:

bob vaughan

Bob Vaughan
Senior User
Or are any bearings bought elsewhere better than Grizzly's bearings?

Griz buys bearings from other people. The 6004 (6000) series of bearings are known as "Extra Light" series. You'll be better off buying the best light duty bearing you can rather than a cheap light duty bearing.

Nachi is a middle of the road quality that I use generally. NTN makes good ones. Talk to Lynne Scott at Accurate. She can give you some guidance as to what's likely to be a better bearing.

Know that all bearing makers can have a screamer sneak through their inspection process, although its rare. It can happen.

The 6004 bearing is found in a multitude of smaller woodworking machines.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Premier Sponsor

Our Sponsors

LATEST FOR SALE LISTINGS

Top