Brass Screw Removal

[JRD]

I'm looking for ideas, tips, hints, etc. on removing broken brass screws from a wooden box that I'm making.

One, has broken off just above the wood surface, two are flush with the surface of the wood. My first thought, other than a few choice words, was just drill them out, but I want to insure there's not a better way.

Ideas?

Thanks, Jim

 

[Douglas Robinson]

Jim:

BTDT. I would use a screw extactor. It screws into the end of the broken screw. One tip I was given is to use steel screws first to thread the holes and then remove those and use the brass screws since they tend to break. Also some lubricant on the threads of the brass screws will make them go in easier.

Doug

 

[jlwest]

You could use a plug cutter to remove the srews then plug the hole.

Jeff

 

[JRD]

Doug,

These are very small screws. I doubt you could turn an extractor into them.

Jim

 

[Joe Scharle]

You could use a plug cutter over all the holes for an intentional design feature.

 

[RayH]

Hey Joe,

Did you usta work for Microsoft?
"It's not a deficiency, it's a feature":gar-La;

 

[PurpleThumb]

Doug,

These are very small screws. I doubt you could turn an extractor into them.

Jim

Craftsman makes an extracter set that has different sizes and works great

 

[Partman]

You need to look at this http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=983

Danny

 

[DaveO]

You need to look at this http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=983

Danny

+1
Then plug the hole so you can pre-drill and chase it with a steel screw for the next round.
Dave

 

[Gofor]

Grind a square file tang to a sharp point, drill a small hole in the screw, tap in the tang and twist out.

Go

 

[froglips]

My painful experience with broken brass screws led me to the "drill out" as much of the shank as possible.

Look at maybe a 3/32 or smaller drill bits.

Once the brass is mostly drilled out, I did what I could to back out or break up whats left. Awl, small nail, pick, even some tiny files.

I'm assuming you don't want to make a bigger hole. If you can tolerate bigger holes, I'd agree with the posted link too.

One more tip, with the extractors. Use as little torque as possible. A constant pressure, but not superman twist. It may help back out the screw.

While on a role, waxing the screw before insertion can help with unplanned backouts.

Good luck!

Jim

 

[jeff...]

my vote is for the plug cutter / plug / microsoft feature idea

 

[scsmith42]

Screw extractors can be difficult to use (ie easy to break) on extremely small screws. One other problem is in drilling the screw in the center - you will probably need to file/grind the end flat.

One option to consider is to purchase some "left hand twist" drill bits from a machinist supply house, and drill out your screws (with your drill in 'reverse'). This puts counterclockwise force on the broken screw as you're drilling it, and oftentimes it will back out as you drill.

Scott

 

[TracyP]

Screw extractors can be difficult to use (ie easy to break) on extremely small screws. One other problem is in drilling the screw in the center - you will probably need to file/grind the end flat.

One option to consider is to purchase some "left hand twist" drill bits from a machinist supply house, and drill out your screws (with your drill in 'reverse'). This puts counterclockwise force on the broken screw as you're drilling it, and oftentimes it will back out as you drill.

Scott

I echo the left left handed drill bits as I have used them many times in automotive applications and they work relatively well.

 

[froglips]

Irony is a bitter pill....

I was tapping some threades and the tap broke off inside the hole in the casting.

Minor detail in getting it out, the tap is harder than any bits or extractors I have........

I need a bigger hammer!

Jim

 

[PurpleThumb]

Screw extractors can be difficult to use (ie easy to break) on extremely small screws. One other problem is in drilling the screw in the center - you will probably need to file/grind the end flat.

One option to consider is to purchase some "left hand twist" drill bits from a machinist supply house, and drill out your screws (with your drill in 'reverse'). This puts counterclockwise force on the broken screw as you're drilling it, and oftentimes it will back out as you drill.

Scott

That's essentially what the Craftsman set does, The extractor backs the screw out using the pocket it created in the body of the screw.