Axe users?

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froglips

New User
Jim Campbell
I've been playing more with a few poor axes. The kind you'd get at KMart in a camping kit :)

Are folks using hewing hatchets? Broad axes? Felling axes?

I ask, as I'm unsure where to go with this.

Since I don't work in green wood, I'm not sure I'd gain much by investing in a good axe (Gransfor comes to mind).

I've seen St. Roy use a hewing hatchet like a surgeon. It looks like a great way to quickly size.

Any thoughts?

Jim
 

bpeck

New User
Brian
I use a two-bit (read double bladed, not cheap:gar-Bi) ax for firewood, felling, etc. I have a small hewing hatchet but haven't used it much for other than kindling. Maybe I need to get it out and give it a go.
 

nelsone

New User
Ed
Funny you ask! I was looking at Peter Follansbee's 17th Century Carved Box and was thinking it would be a good excuse to get a broad hatchet and a froe. Don't have them yet, but I'm a lookin!
 

Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
I have a few small hand axes, some felling axes a small worn out hewing ax and a real hatchet. There is a difference!

Wetterlings is as good as Granfors if you can hand select and you are willing to invest a bit of time with a belt sander. I have the proper equipment and knowhow if you want to set one up to use for carving. I have seen Granfors lately that are not up to their famous quality standards. You really must hand pick or be ready to send back until you get a good one.

A small hewing ax is good if you work one side only, sometimes I switch hands so I use a standard ax.

A hewing ax is easier to control on a flat surface, the edge is shaped like a chisel.

They are pretty darned expensive new and usually worn out when found in the wild.

We can maybe fine turn what you have and work on technique some to help you decide if you want to spend a couple hundred bucks on a better ax.
 

froglips

New User
Jim Campbell
I see we frequent the same internet haunts :)

This is one of his posts posts I keep looking at....

Jim

Funny you ask! I was looking at Peter Follansbee's 17th Century Carved Box and was thinking it would be a good excuse to get a broad hatchet and a froe. Don't have them yet, but I'm a lookin!
 

dkeller_nc

New User
David
Just my thought, but if you're not interested in green wood (i.e., from the log) woodworking, it doesn't make a lot of sense to use an axe or a shingling hatchet in the shop. I have several, both antiques and new high-grade ones, but I use them to rough out riven blanks from logs for various purposes, and for carving if I'm doing something fairly large.

Mike's right that the antiques generally need to be closely examined to determine if they're usable. Often, the ones in the best condition aren't usable because the blade wasn't tempered properly and the edge either chips out immediately or rolls over. That can be corrected by annealing, re-hardening and then re-tempering. But the mass of the iron's large enough that you need some experience with a forge to do it right - a blowtorch won't cut it as it doesn't put out enough heat.
 

Gofor

Mark
Corporate Member
I use a double-bit for felling small stuff and limbing bigger ones (green). I use a single bit for splitting and and sometimes for chopping to length, altho I use saws for most of the length work. I have a hewing ax that was my grandpa's, and the head was in fairly good shape. I had to put a handle on it and did not get it aligned with the flat side of the blade, so I need to re-handle it. Because of the misaligned handle, I have not been able to do much with it (at least I'll blame it on that for now :embaresse).

I did find that after spending some time getting the edges shaped and sharp, they are much easier to use and stay sharp even in oak. I have had both the double bit and chopping axes for well over 20 years, so they are of decent quality even tho bought in a hardware store.

Go
 

Jerome B

New User
Jerome
I picked up a hatchet that is flat on one side> I don't know what one would call it, but I have found it right handy for quickly paring off unwanted wood, say on a tapered leg.

Jerome
 

froglips

New User
Jim Campbell
I notice a commen comment, how to tell if an new axe is good, and an old axe is a keeper or worn out.

Could you elborate on how to tell the difference? What to look for?

Thanks to everyone for their input.

Jim

I have a few small hand axes, some felling axes a small worn out hewing ax and a real hatchet. There is a difference!

Wetterlings is as good as Granfors if you can hand select and you are willing to invest a bit of time with a belt sander. I have the proper equipment and knowhow if you want to set one up to use for carving. I have seen Granfors lately that are not up to their famous quality standards. You really must hand pick or be ready to send back until you get a good one.

A small hewing ax is good if you work one side only, sometimes I switch hands so I use a standard ax.

A hewing ax is easier to control on a flat surface, the edge is shaped like a chisel.

They are pretty darned expensive new and usually worn out when found in the wild.

We can maybe fine turn what you have and work on technique some to help you decide if you want to spend a couple hundred bucks on a better ax.
 

Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
A hand forged carbon steel ax of good design and well made is the best.

That would be an older Gransfors or a similarly made Swedish or German model. Some early American axes were exceptional as well, Norlund is one brand. But, brand is not the be all, end all. I have seen poorly made axes from top names.

Cast steel, stainless steel and almost anything made in China for export to the USA are the worst.

Look for an ax that is not abused as in hammer marks on the poll, chips in the edge, deep pitted rust.

If it is not hung you should be able to hold it loosely in the eye, tap the face of the blade and hear a clear ring like a bell. If it goes "thud" it is cracked, a dull ring may indicate bad heat treating.

A new file should cut the edge with some effort. If it shaves off lots of metal easily the blade is too soft.

What I find most of the time is a blade that has been ground and ground until there is too steep an angle on the blade, little blade left, ground poorly or ground too fast and heated to the point that the temper is ruined. Most of the time it is not worth the effort to correct.

I like to find nice old ax heads with no handle and little rust for really low prices. They can easily be cleaned up, sharpened and rehung.
 

Ozzie-x

New User
Randy
I'm not an axe expert like some of the collectors I know. But if I wanted an axe or hatchet, you can't go wrong with an old Collins, True Temper, Kelly, Plumb, Bluegrass, Keene Kutter. Stick with the major old names and you don't have to worry about quality, tempering, etc., they will be at least decent. The old Kelly's and True Tempers would be my first choice, Kelly, True Temper and Plumb made edged tools for a lot of different companies and hardware distributors including Keene Kutter, Bluegrass, Simmonds, Marshall Wells, Montgomery Ward, Sears Roebuck, and many many more. If you know what to look for, you can tell who made the rebranded tools. The only tempering I would worry about would be really old edged tools or old blacksmith made tools. Also, years ago the threat of fire was a bigger concern than it is now. Any old tool that shows signs of having gone through a fire, pass it by (if you want to use it) because the tempering will be shot, unless you want the hassle of retempering it.

I still have my old Collins axe from when I heated with wood and it is an excellent axe. I also have some other True Tempers, Kelly and Bluegrass that are nice axes, and an oodles of various hatchets. I have a boat anchor single bit polled axe from Lowes that I use for logging. For most folks (including me), the making fine furniture usually doesn't involve an axe or hatchet, but maybe I'm just too nit-picky. I sometimes make sawmill slab benches and such, and use hatchets on those. I always sharpen axes with a file, never grind them, they are after all a fine edged tool. Last item- good wooden handles for axes, hatchets, hammers, etc are getting hard to find because there's only one wooden handle plant left in business I think.
 

Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
Yeah, they are in Tennessee right? Can't remember the name. They have two lines. Good second growth hickory handles.

Of course most any real wood worker can make a handle, it's usually not worth his time, but if they get any harder to find...
 

Ozzie-x

New User
Randy
The company is O.P. Link. They have been making handles for many many years. They had several plants at one time, and I think all of them are closed except for one. I know the Salem Indiana and Kentucky plants are closed and maybe both of the tennessee plants. The remaining plant may be in Missouri or Arkansas. is for sure closed. I think both of the Tennessee plants were closed, and the remaining plant is in Missouri or Arkansas. We used to get a lot of the seconds here in this area from the Tenn plants, some of them were pretty decent handles but you had to pick through them closely.
 

Ozzie-x

New User
Randy
Thanks Mike, that's good to know and a nice website with some interesting info. Glad to see there's another handle maker still out there.
 
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