Would a Tracksaw work?

[Ralrick]

We had a deck built 5 or 6 years ago using kiln dried lumber and the contractor 'butted' the decking boards up against each other. I had told him to space the boards when we were planning the project but he didn't. Anyway, fast forward to today and we get some 'puddling' in spots where the small cracks that are between the boards have filled up with some debris and the water can't drain. I have not found a good way clean out the cracks and I'm wondering if I could use a track saw to cut a wider gap in between each board.

I've never used a track saw so wondering if the tracks are very easy to align so I could get straight lines along the entire length of the deck and if the tracks are stable enough to stay in place without clamping?

Thoughts?

Here is a picture of the decking boards and I think you can see how tight they are together . . . .

 

[Bill Clemmons]

I don't have a track saw so I can't answer that question. My concern would be nails. Did he toe the nails in from the side like typical flooring? If so you may need to take that into consideration when choosing a saw blade.

 

[Henry W]

My concern would be the adjacent boards. Can the arc be small enough to make the cuts at the right depth, while not cutting into adjacent boards? Seems like a small blade (4.5"?) for a trim saw might be right; depending on the deck board width. Or simply use a small bladed trim saw against a straight edge; I realize this does not have the convenience of alignment that a tracksaw has.
A plunge router against a straight edge, using a narrow bit might be an option depending on the depth needed (if the dreaded nails can be avoided).
A multi-tool oscillating saw would be tedious, but would probably work - if depth of cut is adequate.

Ahhh - re-reading the original post, I realize my mistake. I thought you were only concerned about the ends of planks, but now I see it is all the way along the sides (that are butted together). Ignore the previous suggestions - track saw seems like the answer.

And yes Rick, that looks like a beautfiul place.

 

[Ralrick]

The boards are screwed down from the top so I don't think we should have a problem with hitting nails. I had considered unscrewing all the boards and relaying them but that seems like a huge effort - although I should have made the contractor do this right from the start as I noticed the mistake the day after he did the work. I was thinking the depth of cut would just be about 1/8 deeper than the deck boards and that would not hurt the strength of the deck joists.

 

[Kent Adams]

What a beautiful place Rick. Yes, a track saw would work perfectly for this. You can dial in the depth so as to cut very little of the stringers and joists. If your track is long enough and you apply some pressure, say with your knee, and are careful, you don't need the clamps. I can't tell exactly from your picture whether you mean the boards are butted end to end or parallel. If parallel, you have additional problems because they won't be rounded over with a track saw. You could use a router and track, like the Festool system if they are parallel. In that case, you'd probably need to secure the track. Each end of the Festool track has a hole in it for hanging. Those can be used to secure the tract to the boards, probably a small nail, bent over would do the trick, so as to make the holes less conspicuous. If your issue is parallel boards, I'd recommend removing them, space them and then cut the last board against the house to offset the spacing. Your deck, from the picture doesn't look too large for this to be a couple of weekend project. If you run into a problem with removing the screws, I'd use a special crow bar to pull them out and then use longer screws when you lay them back down. There is a special kind of crowbar, I can't remember the name of it but its sold by Lowes. Its wider than the typical crowbar and the "handle" is also wider. I have one of those and they work great. This advise is sort of a hack and others with more experience will give you better advice. However, if your issue is that the ends of the boards are butted against each other, then your in luck and a track saw will certainly make sort work of it, as long as the screws aren't toe nailed, then get a special blade for that. With that view, a little DIY, a beer and some music will make it a joy to repair, IMHO.

 

[Brogan]

Personally, I would lift and fix them again properly, with the required spacing between each board.

A lot of work yes, but the end result will be a lot nicer.

 

[nn4jw]

No matter what this looks difficult to me. Unscrewing and relaying the boards is going to be tough to get correct in those triangular sections and around posts. Cutting between the boards will leave sharp corners prone to splintering and be tough to run all the way up to obstructions.

I'll thow out this idea without having done it myself - just drill a few strategic holes between boards in the low spots to allow drainage. 3/8" maybe? Much easier.

 

[redknife]

I frequently use a track saw. I would have some concerns about the tracksaw approach here. The surface looks relatively flat, but I could imagine the track inconsistently contacting the wood. I’m not sure how that loss of friction would impact your cut. You would be slicing the very side of the board and I’m not sure if the forces could move your track. In many circumstances you don’t need to clamp the tracks, as the foam underside usually holds the track in place. Finally, deck boards tend to have curves and twists and I don’t know that would interact with the saw. All of that said, it may be fine if you are mindful of the unique cut environment.

 

[HMH]

Hi Rick,

I would actually think that unscrewing and re-laying may be MORE problematic, given that to make things look good from above, you'd want to re-use the same screw-holes, which w/ only a slight shift on the joist, (for the 1st couple of runs anyway), would likely then want to re-align w/ the existing holes in the joist, effectively creating a weaker connection.

A track-saw would likely work well if you can take the time to align the cuts lengthwise when you inevitably have to pick up and relocate the track along the decking board's length.

If better drainage is the goal, I like Jim's idea above of some strategic drain-holes.

Beautiful view regardless!

 

[JimD]

I use and like my track saw a lot and I think it would work. But it depends a bit on how straight these boards are. The track saw track is really straight. So if the boards are not that straight, the cut will not be totally in the gap between boards. But if they are straight enough, you should be able to cut between them and still have some of the curved edge of the boards remaining. The track saw blade is less than 1/8 wide.

I often cut without clamping, sometimes it is just not reasonably possible. You have to get in the habit of holding the track down and it helps if the surface is clean but it will work. I plan to cut another open skirt for a staircase, for instance, tonight. The track saw works great for this including the mitered cut for the riser. You have to finish the cut by hand but the track saw can do most of it. But I've found no way to clamp for this cut. I had to make 3 to get a good one for the first skirt but am hoping to get the next one first try. The issues with the two scrap ones were not the saw or the track slipping, it cut where I marked but I tried making a cardboard template and that didn't work well. Screwing the piece to the wall where the skirt goes worked much better. A straight edge across a couple stringers showed where the cuts needed to be.

The blades for track saws are kind of pricey. I'd probably get an Oshlun for this, it is the cheapest and still a pretty good blade. There should not be nails or screws in your path but....

 

[pop-pop]

Have you considered a jigsaw with a sturdy blade? Might be easier to follow the irregularities.

Like sawing the crap out of the spaces.

Or, if you could get it started, one of those short handsaws with hardened teeth from a BORG.

 

[Ralrick]

Thanks for the input guys. I had thought about drilling some draining holes but thought it would look too conspicuous as one of the areas that doesn't drain well is fairly central and large. I wonder if I could use the track saw but rather than doing the entire deck, could just do a few of the boards where there is draining problems. I think the straight cut would be less noticeable than holes and I don't think just being an 1/8" wide would ruin the edge round-overs on the deck boards. This all assumes I could get the track to align with the edges right in the center of the two boards.

If nothing else, I'll get a new tool out of the effort :rotflm: I've wanted a track saw.

 

[Wyatt Co.]

Jig saw or oscillating tool. No way I'd pull all that up and reposition it just for gaps.

 

[chris_goris]

Thanks for the input guys. I had thought about drilling some draining holes but thought it would look too conspicuous as one of the areas that doesn't drain well is fairly central and large. I wonder if I could use the track saw but rather than doing the entire deck, could just do a few of the boards where there is draining problems. I think the straight cut would be less noticeable than holes and I don't think just being an 1/8" wide would ruin the edge round-overs on the deck boards. This all assumes I could get the track to align with the edges right in the center of the two boards.

If nothing else, I'll get a new tool out of the effort :rotflm: I've wanted a track saw.

Do you pressure wash it regularly? that will blow out the debris between the boards. The contractor did the right thing laying them side by side bu tthe lumber mustve been completely dry when he laid it, typically it shrinks and leaves gaps

 

[Phil S]

I think I can help here as I have done this twice before.
The first time I started with my track saw but found the boards where slightly curved and the track was not. So I cut them freehand with a standard circular saw. I found the blade naturally wanted to follow the small gap between the boards and I found it very easy to guide the saw but it only cut a 1/8 wide space.

The next time I did this I decided to try my router as I wanted a wider space. I glued a triangular guide bar to the bottom of my plunge router. The triangle bar was lined up with the bit. All I had to do was set the router down with the guide bar between the boards, plunge the bit in and push forward. I think I used a 1/4 spiral upcut bit

The router was faster and easier to guide

I just looked thru my junk drawer but was unable to find that router plate - easy enough to make

If you do want to try a track saw. I happen to have one with two tracks that join together. You can give it a test drive

 

[mquan01]

Jig saw or oscillating tool. No way I'd pull all that up and reposition it just for gaps.

+1. A circular saw blade will super heat and warp very quickly (i know that from experience ) I know use my recip saw or pressure washer when I need to clean up in between boards.

 

[Tarhead]

Unless you're trying to justify a new saw, a standard circular saw on a plywood saw guide and some brads to hold it down would get this done. Just make shallow cuts to reduce the friction and work your saw has to do. You will be left with square edges you may want to round over. I have seen round over router bits with a brass pilot which would fit into the ~1/8" slot.

 

[tdukes]

I'm thinking in the long run, you be better off unscrewing them and relaying the boards. Cutting the gap will also leave exposed wood and you'll need to re-apply the stain.

 

[Gotcha6]

Another option for a wider gap would be to stack 2 saw blades on your circular saw, provided the blade washers will seat. Just be sure to stagger the teeth so they don't touch. Anything you do with a circular, jigsaw, or sawzall will leave a rougher surface to the edges than you now have

 

[Charlie]

See if a hacksaw or reciprocating saw blade will fit between the boards. If so, put a long handle on the blade so you can stand instead of having to bend over or be on your knees. If it works, clean the crud until you hit a joist, then rinse and repeat. You don't need to remove wood, just the crud.
I would think there would be some gap, but they are filled with crud as you said.
It works for me on my deck. I have pine needles that create the problem.