Thank you Rob. I need all the help I can get.
Workshop to make burial urns
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Thank you Rob. I need all the help I can get.
I don't have any way of knowing what the demand is going to be. It's a learning process, but I will ask the National Cemetery director for an estimate when we meet.
The purpose of the project is to insure no veteran's cremains get buried in a cardboard box, as happens, in the National and State Veterans Cemeteries. This is due to the veteran being an indigent, or their family cannot afford the cost of an urn. Urns can be delivered to a funeral home if the above guidelines are met, and internment is in the veteran's cemeteries.
The reason for the words, NOT FOR SALE, means just that. Although the majority of funeral directors are highly reputable and honest, this eliminates the chance of an unscrupulous funeral director from selling the urn. As for the rest of the wording, the engraving is being donated, and the engraving comes at a cost to the donor, and probably needs to be as brief as possible.
I hope this answers some of your questions. Thank you for asking, your opinion and comments are valued.
Jeff, have you received Rob's wording? Will that work? Because the bottom is removeable, attached with 3 screws, perhaps we could get them made, then bring them to you for engraving. There is also the thought of engraving the insignia of each service branch on a 4 x 4 x 1/4" piece to glue to the top, and attach when the urn is to be used, thus minimizing the inventory of urns. I'd welcome your thoughts.
Bruce
Bruce - that's helpful thanks.
Assuming I understand the design correctly, i) the top is permanently attached during the construction, ii) the ashes are placed in from the bottom, then iii) the bottom is screwed into place by the funeral director/rep using the 3 SS #8 screws mentioned in the bill of materials ?
-Mark
That is correct Mark. Thank you for verifying that. Now go get 'em brother!
If someone could do a tutorial on the build process , I would be able to do a couple when I have a time to get into the shop and work.
its hard for me to get to gathering to help.
Instead of "Not For Sale" how about "Donated By NCWoodworker.net". Just a suggestion to make the wording more acceptable.
Charley
Charley
I am twext and tween. I think the Not for sale part is needed. Yes donated by is great however that would not stop one being sold to other than whom we make these for. At least if marked NOT etc the possible buyer would see the NOT and stop to question.
Bruce; I bin a thunkin, RUN RUN :}, How do you feel about pocket screws and glue to hold the tops down? I am a belt and suspenders kinda guy
we dont know how long these will sit and a good chance the wood to warp. At least screws and glue should prevent that.
Bruce; I bin a thunkin, RUN RUN :}, How do you feel about pocket screws and glue to hold the tops down? I am a belt and suspenders kinda guy
we dont know how long these will sit and a good chance the wood to warp. At least screws and glue should prevent that.
I hear you.
I checked my shop yesterday and I have a fair supply (for a hobbyist) of wide white oak. I spent some time yesterday sketching joinery options for the lid to the sides. If I can find some shop time this week I'll try to record construction as I go along.
-Mark
Although you asked Bruce, I'm going to jump in since I was thinking about this.<snip>
Bruce; I bin a thunkin, RUN RUN :}, How do you feel about pocket screws and glue to hold the tops down? I am a belt and suspenders kinda guy
The top is quite wide (8.75" across the grain) and I think it might be asking a bit much to expect the top-to-sides joint not to expand/contract.
Quick calc:
Flatsawn white/red oak has a coefficient of 0.0037
Worst-case moisture content change: 10% (from say 6% MC to 16% MC) (see Note 1)
Width: 8.25" (see Note 2)
Maximum change = 0.0037*10*8.25 = 0.305" or about 5/16"
There are two side-to-top joints that will see this much movement, so each joint needs to withstand 1/2 the total amount or 5/32"
Accommodating 5/32" of wood movement seems like a risky proposition for a hard-curing PVA glue ? Maybe epoxy or another glue would do better. Intuitively, it seems like a pocket-screw could accommodate this much movement - maybe wallow the hole in the side a bit.
Another option is a purely mechanical joint like figure 8 clips:
http://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/sl20001/#.VSPeuI10zcs
Thoughts ?
-Mark
Note 1 - from http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/108898/calculating-for-wood-movement
Note 2 - the top has a total width of 8.75", but we only care about the 8.25" that will rest on the sides.
Would gum wood work for this?
If so I have a couple hundred board feet some is 12 inch wide.
I would donate nearly all of it just would like to keep a few boards to use for a project.
If so I have a couple hundred board feet some is 12 inch wide.
I would donate nearly all of it just would like to keep a few boards to use for a project.
In case you haven't seen the other post, I have made sample engraved examples. The bottom is 2" in diameter and just requires a 2" forstner bit to install. The top one will be glued to the top of the urn. It has a rope edge cut around so it will look great attached to the top. here are the pictures.
I think gum wood would work just fine. Now if we can get a workshop organized we've got the material. Thank you Mike, for the generous contribution.
Bruce Et Al : For anyone who does not possess pocket screw equipment I am well equipped having just upgraded my shop with the new Foreman . I know I am kinda out in the woods LOL here in Zebulon but, if a few folks want to head out this way, we could make components, for lack of a better term and then assemble at your leisure back at your places. Just a thought y'all welcome anytime
. I know I am kinda out in the woods LOL here in Zebulon but, if a few folks want to head out this way, we could make components, for lack of a better term and then assemble at your leisure back at your places. Just a thought y'all welcome anytime
Those are beautiful Brad.
But the top medallion takes us in the direction of not being able to finish the boxes until the background of the deceased is known. Something like a JIT delivery process, or the National Cemetery needs to maintain a stock the different medallions and assemble 'as-needed'.
At the risk of showing my ignorance, is there a common symbol for all US Armed Forces, so as to allow the boxes to be delivered to the Cemetery as finished units and avoiding the stocking problem ?
Again, beautiful work.
-Mark
installing the branch piece on the top will not be a problem. We are going to make enough of each so that all that will have to be done is attach it to the top of the urn. We are looking at using double sided tape so all it will be is a peel and stick process to personalize it for the branch served in. keeping them stocked is not a big deal as I will have the file ready to go so when more are needed I will just make them and forward them to who ever is running the project. To my knowledge there is no one size fits all emblem.
Brad, regards the 2" dia, how close a tolerance can you maintain? NOT busting just wondering if taking the 2" as nominal and doing a fostner @ 2" will there be enuf clearance so the emblems do not have to be put in with a gentle mallet :}
When you have a production blank or emblem can I get a couple to test setup? I have one urn ready in shop to go
thanks
Jack
PS: I can get a 2 1/16 fostner bit :} wood this be enuf clearance?
When you have a production blank or emblem can I get a couple to test setup? I have one urn ready in shop to go
thanks
Jack
PS: I can get a 2 1/16 fostner bit :} wood this be enuf clearance?
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