Looking at this for sharpening, as I dont do grinding wheels successfully, have any opinions?
WS3000 Woodworking Tool Sharpener
WS3000 Woodworking Tool Sharpener
Worksharp 3000
- Thread starter Ptofimpact
- Start date
I have one that I use for chisels and plane irons. I built an extended work surface that is co-planar with the top of the wheel, which I find helps. The Worksharp is especially useful for flattening the backs. If an edge just needs touching up, I’ll do it by hand on a strop or diamond stone, but the Worksharp definitely speeds up the bulk work.
I didn’t care for the angled tool holder that lets you sharpen with the underside of the wheel: I find it easier to use the top with a sharpening guide. I’ve also not attempted to use the Worksharp with any turning tools.
Maybe that helps a bit?
I didn’t care for the angled tool holder that lets you sharpen with the underside of the wheel: I find it easier to use the top with a sharpening guide. I’ve also not attempted to use the Worksharp with any turning tools.
Maybe that helps a bit?
I use that, I did not like changing sandpaper all the time so I found some diamond discs and glued them to the glass.
Then I bought an extra glass, now I have 5 diamond discs and a leather strop mounted on glass plates so changing grits is very quick and easy.
I do use the built in guide, it is accurate and angle changes are easy.
There is a little learning curve and you need a place to leave it set up but then it is very helpful for damaged blades.
Then I bought an extra glass, now I have 5 diamond discs and a leather strop mounted on glass plates so changing grits is very quick and easy.
I do use the built in guide, it is accurate and angle changes are easy.
There is a little learning curve and you need a place to leave it set up but then it is very helpful for damaged blades.
Thank you Mike
Yes thank you, anything I bring to a grinder becomes junk, my hope is to use for Woodturning tools, and will eventually get a rest of some type, but do want to try freehand.
That is Oneway.
I don't do any lathe work these days but I like my WorkSharp 3000. I don't use it a lot but I like the way it sharpens chisels and plane irons. I also use it for the knives on my old Ryobi planner. The planner came with a jig for sharpening and I made another for using the WorkSharp. Only takes a few minutes and saves a lot versus new blades. The Ryobi also has adjustments for sharpened blades that are a little narrower as a result. I also have the WorkSharp knife sharpener and I think it also is well engineered and works well.
Would like to see your Homemade for Worksharp, thanks.
I ran a woodworking school in Maine the last 8 years. Here's what my instructors had to say re. the Worksharp 3000:
Mike Pekovich: He thinks it is junk. I did not get much explanation but he said that other methods get a much flatter and sharper edge.
Alexander Garbovetsky: Loves it for curved carving tools. Alex has a wonderful system with his Worksharp. You can probably see that on his website. I will do a blog on this in the future as well.
I do very little "sharpening". 95% of my edge treatment time is honing/stroping. I use both a leather strop and a power method (MDF wheels impregnated with honing compound mounted on a buffer. I use 4 wheels and made 2 V-shapes and 2 different curve radii). If you keep your edges honed you will only rarely need to go back to sharpening with waterstones, Worksharp, or whatever.
Mike Pekovich: He thinks it is junk. I did not get much explanation but he said that other methods get a much flatter and sharper edge.
Alexander Garbovetsky: Loves it for curved carving tools. Alex has a wonderful system with his Worksharp. You can probably see that on his website. I will do a blog on this in the future as well.
I do very little "sharpening". 95% of my edge treatment time is honing/stroping. I use both a leather strop and a power method (MDF wheels impregnated with honing compound mounted on a buffer. I use 4 wheels and made 2 V-shapes and 2 different curve radii). If you keep your edges honed you will only rarely need to go back to sharpening with waterstones, Worksharp, or whatever.
Thank you
I can understand the view, him being a Purist, thank you
Even I can successfully sharpen turning tools with my OneWay grinding jig!
Before investing, look at Taylor Tools video on his similar system ( less than $50,) which a wood worker could duplicate easily. Substitute a disk of MDF for the Acrylic. If memory serves me correct, Klingspor stocks the arbor. If not, use a carriage bolt and nut. Go fancy, and add Formica to both sides of disk to make it easy peel. Stumpy nubs has a video on this system in use, plus the link to plans to build ramp for chisels
As others have said I like the Worksharp system but it is not by any means a complete sharpening system. For turning tools I use a slow speed Rikon with the Wolverine jig which I fine for turning tools most excellent and WorkSharp for my hand planes and chisels but I always follow up with hand planes and chisels on a wet system of wet/dry on glass plate. Wet sanding paper glued to a glass plate IMHO still the best method to getting a mirror/razor sharp edge without investing much money OK a good leather strop is well worth its money as well. Some have tried to convince me the Tormac system is the best but 600 to 3000 wet/dry on glass plate will get you a razor sharp finish. Just remember what ever system you decide to go with it takes time to perfect and once you take time to sharpen all the tools ALL WAYS touch up after every use and every tool will be sharp and ready.
I use the Worksharp for chisels, planes, and lathe tools. No angle guide needed. The key is to start with something big and use sharpie on the bevel until you can feel the tool stabilize and then rock it off again. Same thing for rounded gouges, just light touch on and off.
For knives I use a Spiderco Tri-angle sharpmaker and it is cheap, foolproof, and effective.
For knives I use a Spiderco Tri-angle sharpmaker and it is cheap, foolproof, and effective.
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