Wiring Delta 50-760 for 220V

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nblong

New User
Bruce
Does anyone have any experience changing a Delta 50-760 dust collector over to 220V? I have the proper replacement switch but the wiring diagram inside the switch box cover is making me feel like a monkey trying to program a VCR. I can send pictures if anyone is interested. Thanks.:BangHead:
 

Alan in Little Washington

Alan Schaffter
Corporate Member
If the motor is in fact 110/220V and you have the diagram for both it should be easy. Each motor lead will have a number either printed on the insulation or on a band around that wraps around the insulation. Just follow the diagram- you will be connecting the appropriate wires together and the two power leads to one or a couple of the wires using wire nuts. The ground will be connected to either a ground wire or a screw lug and maybe both.
 

Glennbear

Moderator
Glenn
To expand upon Alan's advice :

115V= Leads 1+3 spliced and go to switch which is wired to hot side of
outlet.
Leads 2+4 spliced and go to neutral side of outlet
Green to ground

230V = Leads 2+3 spliced
Leads 1+4 to appropriate terminals on new switch
Outgoing cord from switch to 230V outlet
Green to ground

This info is from Delta 50-760 Document with diagram. YMMV :wsmile: since I have never rewired this machine. If in doubt consider grabbing an available electrician :wink_smil for help.
 

nblong

New User
Bruce
Many thanks for the advice but I'm still not clear. 2+3 spliced together matches the diagram inside the switch cover. However the switch Delta sent me has four terminals but if they're marked in any way I can't see it. Do I need to use all four as in 1 and 4 go to two of them and the hot & neutral go to the other two? If so, which ones? Or is it that 1+hot go to one and 4+neutral go to another. If so, which two? :icon_scra

Sorry to be such a bother but I'd rather not burn down my garage or my new toy.
 

scsmith42

New User
Scott Smith
Bruce, if the switch has four terminals, I would think that two of them would be your hot lines in and two would be the switched power out.

Do you have an ohm meter that you can use to check the circuitry on the switch?
 

Glennbear

Moderator
Glenn
Bruce, if the switch has four terminals, I would think that two of them would be your hot lines in and two would be the switched power out.

Do you have an ohm meter that you can use to check the circuitry on the switch?

Exactly my answer also Scott, The BORG has inexpensive meters and also a powered circuit tester made by Greenlee which I find invaluable. About the size of a penlight and tests for current by inductance (no metal contact needed) :wsmile: On a 220V circuit a receptacle has no "neutral" side both sides are hot and carrying 110V thus providing 220V . Do you have a 220V wired outlet ? When properly wired a 220V switch breaks the connection of both hot legs to the load (motor).
 
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Howard Acheson

New User
Howard
Just a quick question. Why did you need a new switch? Most manufacturers use a double throw/double pole switch on any device that has a dual voltage motor. If you had two wires from the motor going into the switch and two going from the switch to the plug, you had the correct switch already.

One final note. Be sure to use a black magic marker and color the end of the white wire to black to indicate that it is now a "hot" wire. Mark both the end at the motor and where it enters your switch as well as where it leaves the switch and where it enters the plug. That way no one will get hurt if they don't know that the voltage has been changed.
 

nblong

New User
Bruce
Glenn: Thanks for the correction. I should have said black and white instead of hot and neutral. Yes, I have a 20amp 220V circuit that I had installed so my table saw and dust collector could have their own dedicated power.

Scott: Yes, I have a meter. Should have thought of that myself!

Howard: Good advice about coloring the white wire. Thanks. Also, Delta's Web site specifies the switch that is required for 220V operation on the 50-760. The rep I spoke with couldn't help with the wiring but verified that I had to replace the switch.

Thanks for all the help everyone.
 
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nblong

New User
Bruce
In case anyone else needs to know, Glenn & Scott were right.:icon_chee Delta sent me a wiring diagram that shows the two hot lines into the switch, one to each of the lower terminals (i.e., the "off" side) and 1 and 4 out to the motor, each from one of the upper terminals (i.e., the "on" side). 2 and 3 are spliced together and ground is ground of course. The switch makes/breaks the connections between the upper and lower terminals.

Thanks again everyone.
 
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