Which water based poly finishes do you use?

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BillPappas

New User
Bill
I am used to using either the Arm R Seal & Seal a Cell or BLO/Behlens Rock Hard Varnish...all wiped on. I would like to move to water based for my next project but have not used any in the past. I was wondering what water based poly finishes you folks use, how you apply the finish and if you like the results.


Thanks,

Bill
 

Makinsawdust

New User
Robert
I've used quite a bit of the Minwax polyacrylic. It is real easy to use by foam brush, rag or spray. Very forgiving. The only issue with waterborne finishes is the grain raise issue. Also, it does not yellow like oil poly's so if you want that look you will have to tint it with dye. I'm planning on trying some Target Coatings stuff, soon. Based on what I've been able to glean from some of the pro finishing forums almost everyone seems to love Target's products.
Rob
 

Alan in Little Washington

Alan Schaffter
Corporate Member
I shot all my shop cabinets with the Target using a Binks HVLP. A friend who has a small cabinet shop switched to Fuhr last year- he likes it better than the Target, plus it is a little cheaper. Neither of us have used the Gemini stuff but I have heard a number of guys like that too.

Benefits of waterborne over oil is that the WB is clear doesn't amber up, dries quickly* so great for production work, little-to-no VOC's (I shot in my shop w/o respirator), and is as hard as oil.

* I used a system and was able to shoot 20+ cabinet doors -BOTH SIDES- in less than 30 min. By the time the last door was done the WB stuff was dry enough to sand (I use abrasive pads) for the second coat. Here is the thread about it. Let me know if you want more details on the spraying method.
 

junquecol

Bruce
Senior User
I've been using Varathane's Diamond Floor finish for about fifteen years now. Use it on both floors and cabinets, especially the one for the YMCA's. Being clear, it doesn't add any color. I spray it with an Apolo HVLP. When I switched from using an air gun to HVLP, I cut amount of material used by more than 50%. With poly costing $50 a gallon, that is quite a savings.
 

Travis Porter

Travis
Corporate Member
I absolutely LOVE the waterbased lacquers and finishes from Target Coatings. I have sprayed them with a nice Fuji Q4 HVLP system and a cheap gravity fed HVLP conversion gun. I can spray 7 or 8 coats of it in an afternoon with no issues. Both guns give excellent results IMO.

David, if you want to try some out, you are welcome to come by and experiment.
I would have never thought spraying was so easy and pleasant until I did it.
 

alleng

New User
allen
i used minwax polycrilic on oak cabinents after using pickled oak stain.i think it did a prety good job,it did not yellow like oil. oh yea,it was a breeze to clean up. used a foambrush to apply
 

Nativespec

New User
David
Travis:

Thanks, I may have to take you up on that. I guess I am more concerned about durability and the color. If my bedroom furniture has oil base poly, should my current piece (a Morris chair) have oil base as well (all the bedroom is cherry)?

Thanks,

David
 

Alan in Little Washington

Alan Schaffter
Corporate Member
I think you will notice a big difference with cherry. The oil will penetrate and darken the cherry, the WB will not. I would go with the same finish you used on the other pieces. Durability of both is good.
 

DIYGUY

New User
Mark
Personally, I never go near poly of any stripe. Anything that goes on wood will eventually need to be refinished. If you have ever tried to take poly off you will know and immediately understand why it is so objectionable. I love old-fashioned finishes - oil and wax, or better yet, shellac. About the only time I would consider a polyurethane finish is if I will never, ever have to see the piece again. And even then my conscience will pang me. But hey, that's what makes the world go 'round and as usual, YMMV ...
 

Travis Porter

Travis
Corporate Member
I agree there is going to be a difference in color. Oil based poly's, varnishes, etc have more fo a yellow tinge to them than the waterbased. Most if not all waterbased finishes dry crystal clear.

If you want it to match, I would use the same finishing schedule as the previous pieces. My .02
 

DavidF

New User
David
I would second the target coatings stuff and also the fact that it is crystal clear. I use one coat of WB shellac under the Ultima Laquer on Cherry and it looks great. Another brush/wipe on I really like is "Ceramithane" from Highland hardware. With a coat of Hydrocote pre finish underneath it does add the warm look of oil and virtually avoids grain raising.

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=7459

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1243
 

BillPappas

New User
Bill
I shot all my shop cabinets with the Target using a Binks HVLP. A friend who has a small cabinet shop switched to Fuhr last year- he likes it better than the Target, plus it is a little cheaper. Neither of us have used the Gemini stuff but I have heard a number of guys like that too.

Benefits of waterborne over oil is that the WB is clear doesn't amber up, dries quickly* so great for production work, little-to-no VOC's (I shot in my shop w/o respirator), and is as hard as oil.

* I used a system and was able to shoot 20+ cabinet doors -BOTH SIDES- in less than 30 min. By the time the last door was done the WB stuff was dry enough to sand (I use abrasive pads) for the second coat. Here is the thread about it. Let me know if you want more details on the spraying method.

Alan - nice looking cabinets!

Based on all the positive feedback I have got to try going water based. I am tired of the fumes!

Thanks to all for the feedback.
 
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