Which table saw to buy

[AlexSwansboro]

So I have been looking at the
craftsman or 35505 10" saw.
I have also been looking at the Steel City 13 amp 10" table saw Model # 35990SS

I am also considering the porter cable 15 amp 10" table saw model number PCB270TS

Advantages and disadvantages for all are appreciated.

Thanks,
Alex

 

[Woodman2k]

What is your budget and what are you going to be doing with it?
Important info for making a choice.

 

[AlexSwansboro]

What is your budget and what are you going to be doing with it?
Important info for making a choice.

My budget is less than $700.00. I would like to use it to make cabinets, chests, drawers along with the rough cutting stuff.

 

[junquecol]

Craigslist is your friend. I have owned one TS with a universal motor in it. Never again. Watch CL for a used Delta contractor's saw. Basically there are only three designs. If you happen to luck up on an old one with the one piece cast iron trunnion / tie rod assembly, jump on it. You can expect to pay between $150, and $700 depending upon the saw, it's condition, and any "throw ins." You can also find Delta clones (Powermatic, Grizzly, Jet) in the same price range.

 

[manfre]

Definitely keep an eye on CL and the NCWW ads. While you're waiting for a deal/steal, you could do most things with a circular saw, router and guide rails. You may find that that is good enough for your needs, but at the very least it'll let you pass on lesser deals to get more bang for your budget.

 

[eyekode]

As Bruce said there are basically 3 types of saws:
1) worksite saws with universal motors (direct drive, do NOT use a belt).
2) contractor saws: belt driven, larger tables then #1, trunnion attached to the tabe, motor hangs off the back.
3) cabinet saw: larger in most every way. trunnion attached to the cabinet. These are easier to adjust, keep their settings better, and generally made better. But counter intuitively they actually take up less space then 2) because the motor doesn't hang out the back.

I would avoid 1). You can find used cabinet saws for your price range. But buying used you need to know what you are looking at. I bought a few used saws before and each one taught me something I didn't previously know about how things can go wrong .

My new rule for buying used tools is don't buy a tool that doesn't work well. For example when buying a table saw have the owner make a few cuts using the fence in plywood. The saw should cut easily and NOT burn the edges.

Best wishes,
Salem

 

[LeftyTom]

I have a Jet 10" tablesaw, model JWTS-10, and it a vast improvement over the Craftsman direct drive benchtop saw I had. It runs $630-$700 new; I got mine new a few years ago for $430 from Woodcraft.

An advantage of buying used is you will not have to put the saw together. Plus the "throw-ins" tell you a bit about the seller; good sign if these include Freud or Woodworker II blades, any jigs for making cuts.

Things to beware of: rust on the table. There is a big difference between the odd spot of rust from being stored in a damp basement and the top being covered in rust (as seen in some CL posts). That is a bargaining point, if you have the time and elbow grease to clean it up. If I am looking for a tool, I intend to use it immediately, not 3 or more weeks down the road. YMMV.

 

[Joe Scharle]

Look only for a cabinet saw, it'll make your life easier from the start. When your tools are not adding to your frustrations, you can concentrate fully on building.
I have the Craftsman 22124 or Zip Code saw. It is NOT a hybrid by definition, because the trunnions are attached to the cabinet just like the 5HP versions.

 

[ehpoole]

FWIW, you should be very happy with the Steel City 10" hybrid saw. I have an older (4-years now) Steel City 10" left-tilt [hybrid] cabinet saw. Unlike some, the trunion assembly is cabinet mounted, which makes adjusting the table's parrallelism to the blade quite simple compared to the more common table-mounted trunnion assembly.

If you go with the Steel City, make sure you purchase a model with their higher-end T-fence system, it is well worth the small extra you'll pay for it over the lower-end fence standard with some of their models.

Unless you have a specific need for a right-tilt saw, I would encourage you to seriously consider a left-tilt saw if you have a choice. Bevel cutting and such is easier/safer on a left-tilt saw (you never trap the offcut between the blade and fence with a left-tilt saw), plus you can always keep your fence on the left-hand side of the table which gives you the maximum range, even when bevel cutting panels. Just realize that some commercial jigs and miter gauges have to be disassembled and reverse assembled for left-tilt since they often come setup for right-tilt (it used to be that right-tilt was pretty much all the average consumer had to choose from).

By all means, feel free to purchase used if you prefer or it better fits with your budget. Just don't let fear of setting up a new saw be the determining variable -- the only 'difficult' step IMHO is the initial leveling of your extension tables -- not that big of a deal. Even a used saw needs to be thoroughly checked for proper setup because you can not just assume that the previous owner knew what they were doing when the set theirs up.

 

[Martin Roper]

$1100 Unisaw

That one would still be running strong long after you replaced a cheaper saw because you outgrew it. The only thing more expensive than buying the right tool once is buying it after buying the wrong tool first.

 

[Woodman2k]

Martin,
you have good taste ,That is the same saw that I have for sale on our site also.And your right, you will not ever kill the Uni .thanx,
Greg

Alex,
make me an offer with out the butcher block extension table.You can make your own out of whatever you would prefer and save some of your initial outlay.

 

[lbtripp]

Alex,

I have the Delta X5 left tilt Unisaw. I have used it every day for the last 5-1/2 years and love it.
I reset everything when I moved it 4 years ago and have not had to do anything since then. I build custom cabinets and furniture with it.

I agree with the others. Buy the best tools you can and they will last a life time. I've been buying tools for over 50 years now and are still using them because I bought the best I could find.

Here is a picture of my saw.

View image in gallery​

Lyell:icon_cheers

 

[SteveHall]

If you can be patient (maybe 3-4 months) I think you can find a very nice professional cabinet saw for your budget. There are some new factors making these kinds of saws more readily available in this price range.

For example, just a week or so ago, someone here posted a newish Delta Unisaw with a 50" Biesemeyer fence AND mobile base for $800. It had a little bit of surface rust which would require about an hour or two of work with some naval jelly. But it was a high quality cabinet saw that most of us would never need to go beyond, a set up in the $1,500 range new.

I'm expecting more and more of these kinds of saws to become available as the all-new Unisaw and SawStop models take over. Professional shops and high schools are willing to upgrade to the latest if for no other reason than liability protection. Even a number of hobbiests are willing to upgrade for the safety and/or convenience features that these brand new saws models offer.

This transition is a pretty monumental step in table saw history and is (IMO) forcing few-year old Unisaw models into the used market in record numbers. Their pricing is forced lower because of the increased demand for the new models--the used price has to be really low (50%) to tempt them to consider an old one.

 

[sightandsounds]

Be patient and watch Craigslist. I have the Porter Cable PCB270TS/ It's a decent saw but I have seen may on Craigslist, for the same amount or less, that I'd rather own.