Which sawblade for plywood and radial arm saw?

[DaveD]

Ok, here is the situation. Need to make a big bookcase out of about 12 sheets of mahogany plywood. 8 of those sheets are 3/4". May make a 2nd one too. Lots and lots of ripping and crosscutting involved.

Going to use a 30+ year old craftsman 12" radial arm saw. The saw is tuned up and tight tolerance wise. 5/8" arbor.

Was thinking of buying the Forrest Woodworker I 12" blade, 20 degree ATB, 5 degree face hook, 60 tooth, 1/8" kerf and the 7" Forrest blade stabilizer ($120 + $24) to do all the cutting with. Anyone have experience with this specific blade on a radial arm saw?

BTW, A TABLE SAW IS NOT AN OPTION.:eusa_naug

So is this a good blade? Can anyone offer a better alternative (that you have used)? What about the Freud blades? I can't make head or tails of their recommendations though. I need no tearout (within reason) on the crosscuts.

I have on occasion put a 10" blade on the saw. That would be an option if it means better cuts.

Help me spend my money to buy the right blade.

 

[4yanks]

Forest's WWI is the only saw blade I know of that is made specifically with the RAS in mind. You could probably use any quality 12 " blade with a negative hook angle and be OK. But I don't think you could do better than the WWI.

 

[walnutjerry]

Was thinking of buying the Forrest Woodworker I 12" blade, 20 degree ATB, 5 degree face hook, 60 tooth, 1/8" kerf and the 7" Forrest blade stabilizer
Help me spend my money to buy the right blade.

I do not have a masters in saw blades however--------I have had really good results on plywood with a blade that has what they call "triple chip grind". I had virtually no splintering on the exit side of the plywood either ripping or cross cutting (where tear out or splintering usually occurs).

Perhaps someone with a broader knowledge base on blades can/will pick it up from there.

Jerry

 

[Charles M]

Dave,

I recommend a HiATB blade with low hook angle for plywood and melamine. The Freud version is the LU80R010 which is 38° bevel, 2° hook, 96T and 1/8" kerf.

Edit: Sorry, I gave you the item number for the 10". You will want the LU80R012 and the 1" to 5/8" bushing is the BL71MCE9.

 

[DaveD]

Thanks Charles. I ended up ordering the Freud 12" blade you recommended and the bushings. I'll let everyone know how it all works in 3 or 4 weeks.

What made me pick what I did.....
'Noise' about Forrest blades (on the internet) was higher than I would have expected
More teeth just seems like they have a better chance at smooth cutting (everything else being equal)
Both Forrest and Freud blades cost about the same
and last, but by no means least, was Charles willing to represent his companies product and make a good recommendation. I latched on to a Freud catalog and looked at ALL their blades (there sure are a lot of them).

I was disappointed that the local woodworking stores didn't seem that knowledgable about saw blades. About all they knew (a little) about was about the half dozen or so they stocked and those were 10" ones (with one or two exceptions).

 

[Charles M]

Dave,

I am confident you will like it. One caution that you likely don't need to hear is to be sure there is absolutely no heeling as this can lift the veneer at the back of the blade as you cut.

 

[DaveD]

By no heeling do you mean that looking down on the blade from above that the blade edge near the fence and the edge farthest from the fence needs to be in the same plane (not 'crabing' is a term I'd use here). front to back (90 degrees to the fence)?

If that's it then I got that covered. Will check all adjustments with a dial indicator. Going to try to use my newly acquired 2-4-6 blocks for setting up the 90 degrees plumb for the blade to the table.

Can you tell I'm a tool junkie?:mrgreen: I'm not paranoid about the settings but I like new tools to play with. :mrgreen: I used to do my own front end alignments on a crew cab dually I had.:roll:

 

[Charles M]

I never thought of using the term "crabbing" but I think that would also describe it. Sounds like you have it covered :icon_thum

 

[DaveD]

Just a followup to bring closure to this thread. The LU80R012 Freud blade that Charles M recommended is one super blade.

There is no tearout when crosscutting the mahogany veneer 3/4" plywood. It also does a glass smooth cut on both croscutting and ripping Mahogany lumber.

And all that is with a .010 'crabbing' on the blade (in 12") that I couldn't tune out of the radial arm saw. The .010 isn't the blade being out, its the machined (no adjustment) 90 degree detent on the motor housing.

Thanks again.:icon_thum