What would you do in this situation?

[TracyP]

I am in the stages of cutting the slots in the rails and stiles for my end tables where the plywood side panels will ride. I went to the Hardwood Store Of NC and purchased the plywood for the side panels of the end tables. Purchased 1/4 inch ply which in reality is not quite 1/4. I thought that buying from them I would get a closer to 1/4 piece of ply:BangHead:. I can purchase undersized bits or take up the space with some material placed in the grooves. What is the best way to accomplish this task? I have put a lot of time and energy (and waiting in between due to surgery) into these tables and don't want to mess it up at this mid to late point in building them. Any and all advise would be greatly appreciated:help:.

 

[DaveO]

I generally cut the gooves for a plywood panel on the table saw. Two passes is all it takes to sneak up on the proper width. How are you joining your rails and stiles? I use a stub tenon and groove for flat plywood panels.

The groove can be cut through on the table saw and then the stub tenon on the rails made to fit the plywood width groove.

If you have used another joinery method you might have to cut stopped grooves. In that case I would turn to the router table with a bit smaller than the desired groove width and sneak up on it that way

Dave

 

[McRabbet]

Tracy, if the slots in the rails and styles run end-to-end of each piece as they usually do, I would cut them on my tablesaw. Use some scrap stock of the same thichness to set the fence so you end up with overlapping passes when you reverse each board. Start with the blade set to the middle of the board -- a 1/8" groove will result even if you turn it end for end and cut again. Move the fence out 1/16" and it should cut a 3/16" groove. Continue with the same board until the plywood fits. If the blade is set too far from the fence, the groove may be too wide, so adjust it back a little. Coninue with scrap pieces until the plywood fits with no rattle.

You can move the fence either way doing this, just remember which way you've started and start with the groove in the middle. Obviously, you need to set the correct depth.

 

[TracyP]

I generally cut the gooves for a plywood panel on the table saw. Two passes is all it takes to sneak up on the proper width. How are you joining your rails and stiles? I use a stub tenon and groove for flat plywood panels.

The groove can be cut through on the table saw and then the stub tenon on the rails made to fit the plywood width groove.

If you have used another joinery method you might have to cut stopped grooves. In that case I would turn to the router table with a bit smaller than the desired groove width and sneak up on it that way

Dave

I am going to use stub tenon and groove for the rail and stile joinery. How do you accomplish the smaller groove needed for the less than 1/4 plywood. I still have the factory blade on my Ridgid table saw and I think the kerf is 1/8 and two passes to cut the groove will equal 1/4. Do I need to purchase a thin kerf blade or will the glue take up this small space that is left?:BangHead:

 

[DaveO]

Set your fence to rip a groove down the center of the stock. Then shift it over just a hair, so when you make two cuts the groove is just slightly wider than 1/8". And adjust from there. A couple of passes with some scrap stock the same width as your frame stock will result in a groove of the desired width. Just keep in mind that any adjustment of the fence will be half of the overall groove width. I have a set up block that I made once I dialed it in dead on. I use it to get me really close and then fine tune it with a few cuts on scrap.
Once you have the right fence setting, you can cut all your stock. Two passes with either face on the fence will give you a centered groove.

Clear as mud..huh???

Dave

 

[TracyP]

Rob and Dave. That makes perfect sense. I tend to try and over-complicate some things when I try to plan it. Thanks for the help:help:, it is really appreciated.

 

[DaveO]

That's what we're here for. You've given me a purpose for being :wwink:

Dave

 

[TracyP]

That's what we're here for. You've given me a purpose for being :wwink:

Dave

:icon_thum:eusa_danc:wav:

 

[Woodman2k]

Tracey,
I have the set of metric/undersize plywood router bits if you can use a router to do the job.You could use Dave's method with an 1/8 saw blade then clean the slot with the router bit to final size.

 

[TracyP]

Tracey,
I have the set of metric/undersize plywood router bits if you can use a router to do the job.You could use Dave's method with an 1/8 saw blade then clean the slot with the router bit to final size.

Greg, Thanks for the offer. I may take you up on it. I am going to start with Rob and Dave's method and then if cleanup of the groove is needed I will be in contact with you. Where did you get your bits from? I feel the urge to buy something soon.:rotflm:

 

[Bas]

When you cut the grooves for the plywood panels, don't make them too tight! It's nice when the stub tenons are a little 'stubborn', that makes the dry fit less of a circus act. But, if the plywood is too tight, and you add the glue, the panel will swell up and no amount of pounding with the deadblow will get it in alignment.

BTW, I used the exact same method Dave described. It was also shown on episode 1 of the Woodsmith Shop. It's pretty much fool proof. But, make sure you have all your stock cut to length and width before you start doing the grooves and tenons. It's a lot of work getting the right fence- and blade adjustments, you don't want to do that twice (or three times.....).

 

[CarvedTones]

...no amount of pounding with the deadblow will get it ...

You obviously need a bigger hammer.

:rotflm::rotflm::rotflm::rotflm::rotflm:

 

[Kicbak]

I don't own a tablesaw so I use a plywood T&G set. It came with 2 undersized plywood slot cutters. I find the one closest to the size of the plywood and use that. Then I use the other tongue cutter for the ends rails.

like so

 

[Travis Porter]

I don't own a tablesaw so I use a plywood T&G set. It came with 2 undersized plywood slot cutters. I find the one closest to the size of the plywood and use that. Then I use the other tongue cutter for the ends rails.

like so

I like your sled! Did you make it or buy it?

 

[Kicbak]

Bought it when Rockler had it on sale. This was right after I got my router table and didn't seem to have skills yet to build one. Even so I would most likely buy one on sale again as just the price of the plate, handle, toggle clamps were about the same price as the entire thing. I had to mess with it some to get it to hold the wood square to the fence but nothing much else.

 

[Nativespec]

I like to use a downcut spiral router bit of a smaller size and run the stock in both directions to center the cut. It might take some testing to get the width correct.

David