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Opinions on this are going to vary.
I was using Freud thin kerf teflon coated blades, but have since switched to 1/8" blades when I added the Biesemeyer splitter to my saw. Since then, I have been using Forrest WW II blades.
My recommendation is to get a good quality (Freud, Forrest, CMT, or Amana) combo blade.
I was using Freud thin kerf teflon coated blades, but have since switched to 1/8" blades when I added the Biesemeyer splitter to my saw. Since then, I have been using Forrest WW II blades.
My recommendation is to get a good quality (Freud, Forrest, CMT, or Amana) combo blade.
I have used a Freud combo blade but recently aquired a WWII TK, and it has been the best blade I've used so far. I have heard great things about Freud newest combo blade release that's very similar to the WWII. I use a Freud Glue-line rip blade for heavy ripping operations and it lives up to it's name very well.
Dave
Dave
I have never used a Bosch circular saw blade although I have several of their power tools. I would suspect it is rebranded.
Amazon had the Forrest on sale for $64 last month with free shipping and may do it again before long.
Amazon had the Forrest on sale for $64 last month with free shipping and may do it again before long.
Like most, I have a collection of blades. It seems that woodworkers are no different than golfers, or fishermen. Always searching for something that will make us better at our game. I have two WWII's, two Freud 50 tooth combos, two DeWalt 50 tooth combos, two DeWalt/ Delta 7657- 40 tooth general purpose blades, several Oldham 40 tooth, GP blades. and some Dewalt 80 tooth, SCM blades. Depending upon which is on the saw, it is my favorite blade. The Delta 7657 can be gotten from Lowes for $39.99. It comes with a 30 day satisfaction gaurrentee. Don't like it, take it back. Proabaly the least used of the above bunch is my WWII's. I'm not as IN LOVE with Forrest as some others are. Slightly overprice for what you get. I have cut literally MILES if 3/4 birch ply with the DeWalt 80 tooth blades. One day, I may send one of them back for sharpening, but not yet.
The bosch pro series I was referring to more info here.
http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/bprobldsrvu.html
http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/bprobldsrvu.html
I have the Systimatic 40 tooth glue line rip and their dado kit-both are great.
http://www.justsawblades.com/systimatic/contact.htm
http://www.justsawblades.com/systimatic/contact.htm
No doubt I'd pick the Ridge Carbide TS2000 (what I have) or Forrest WWII. Pay the extra couple bugs and get a great blade ... it's worth it! (Note: there was a good thread a while back on this exact topic -- http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2685&highlight=ridge+carbide)
Jon,
You probably already know this...
The blade is only one part of the cut, albeit an important part. Do check the alignment of track, to blade, to fence. Making them parallel improves the cut, decreases the burn, and improves the safety of the operation.
Ray
You probably already know this...
The blade is only one part of the cut, albeit an important part. Do check the alignment of track, to blade, to fence. Making them parallel improves the cut, decreases the burn, and improves the safety of the operation.
Ray
They look really light weight (little carbide). I'd invest in a good blade to last and has been put to the test!
Ray's point is very very valid. Just because it is a fairly new saw and just because Tom Hintz had it and babied it, mean very little. Transporting the saw opens it up to being out of adjustment. Making sure the blade is parallel to the miter slots and square to the table along with the alignment of the rip fence is key.
Just thought I'd add my 2 cents worth.
I've used Forrest blades for years until they started loosing teeth..both the WWI and WWII lost carbides. They'd been sharpened many times so maybe they just wore out. I don't know where the pieces went, but I don't think my polycarbonate safety glasses would have stopped them. I sent them back to Forrest, thinking they would replace them, but Forrest just brazed new carbides back on. The weld was so poor I won't use them anymore. I still think the Forrest 80 tooth Duraline HiAT is the best I've found for plywood.
My radial arm is sort of built into my wall wood storage rack, so only gets used for rough right angle cuts, but I've found the Freud teflon negative hook angle cross-cut blade doesn't "ride up" on thick boards.
The Tenryu Gold Medal 40 tooth thin kerf was my favorite until I warped it. By the way if you're using thin kerf blades and use a stabilizer, make sure you use one on both sides. Forrest doesn't tell you this but guess what happens when you sandwich a thin blade between a 4 or 6" disc and a 2" collar flange...and the blade get's hot? Some sharpeners have a sort of high pressure roller machine that will flatten the blade body again, but if your cross-cuts are suddenly getting more chip out at the back then they used to, don't assume it's just not sharp anymore. You can easily get 20 mils of run-out on a warped blade. You can check it by holding a good straight edge against the body and point up at a light. My Forrest blades used to make glass smooth cuts but not anymore.
The latest WWSupply catalog shows a Delta arbor nut/flange assembly, with a machined flange the same diameter as the saw arbor (their number 36-660), for $36. Looks like a good idea for stabilizing, and it fits most saws.
My favorite cut-off is now the new Ridge Carbide Superblade..thin kerf, with virtually no chip-out. Ridge isn't well known but take a look at the awards they show on their web-site.
My favorite rip is the Freud teflon 24 tooth anti-kick back blade..I forget the number.
My Forrest dado set used to be good, but no one can seem to get them back to their original flat bottom cuts. I just got the new Amana dado set, and it's terrific...flat bottoms and little chip out. :-D
Blab,blab,blab...'nuff said.
Don
I've used Forrest blades for years until they started loosing teeth..both the WWI and WWII lost carbides. They'd been sharpened many times so maybe they just wore out. I don't know where the pieces went, but I don't think my polycarbonate safety glasses would have stopped them. I sent them back to Forrest, thinking they would replace them, but Forrest just brazed new carbides back on. The weld was so poor I won't use them anymore. I still think the Forrest 80 tooth Duraline HiAT is the best I've found for plywood.
My radial arm is sort of built into my wall wood storage rack, so only gets used for rough right angle cuts, but I've found the Freud teflon negative hook angle cross-cut blade doesn't "ride up" on thick boards.
The Tenryu Gold Medal 40 tooth thin kerf was my favorite until I warped it. By the way if you're using thin kerf blades and use a stabilizer, make sure you use one on both sides. Forrest doesn't tell you this but guess what happens when you sandwich a thin blade between a 4 or 6" disc and a 2" collar flange...and the blade get's hot? Some sharpeners have a sort of high pressure roller machine that will flatten the blade body again, but if your cross-cuts are suddenly getting more chip out at the back then they used to, don't assume it's just not sharp anymore. You can easily get 20 mils of run-out on a warped blade. You can check it by holding a good straight edge against the body and point up at a light. My Forrest blades used to make glass smooth cuts but not anymore.
The latest WWSupply catalog shows a Delta arbor nut/flange assembly, with a machined flange the same diameter as the saw arbor (their number 36-660), for $36. Looks like a good idea for stabilizing, and it fits most saws.
My favorite cut-off is now the new Ridge Carbide Superblade..thin kerf, with virtually no chip-out. Ridge isn't well known but take a look at the awards they show on their web-site.
My favorite rip is the Freud teflon 24 tooth anti-kick back blade..I forget the number.
My Forrest dado set used to be good, but no one can seem to get them back to their original flat bottom cuts. I just got the new Amana dado set, and it's terrific...flat bottoms and little chip out. :-D
Blab,blab,blab...'nuff said.
Don
Tuchwud, I have been seeing more and more on Ridge carbide, Tenryu, and Guhdo for that matter and all of it positive. Where are you buying these jewels?
Travis,
I bought the Ridge blade direct from Ridge Carbide in NJ.. I was having them match a 3/4"round-over to their 1 1/2" diam rabbeting bit (I use for my rocker leg/seat joints) and saw they had a special on it for $90. The Superblade is the same TS2000 that Jeremy referred to.
I see Amazon has the Tenryu for $88 (reg. $120). I think I paid $95 for mine last Fall. Both of these blades are in the same class IMHO.
http://www.amazon.com/Tenryu-GM-25540-Diameter-Carbide-
Cheers,
Don
I bought the Ridge blade direct from Ridge Carbide in NJ.. I was having them match a 3/4"round-over to their 1 1/2" diam rabbeting bit (I use for my rocker leg/seat joints) and saw they had a special on it for $90. The Superblade is the same TS2000 that Jeremy referred to.
I see Amazon has the Tenryu for $88 (reg. $120). I think I paid $95 for mine last Fall. Both of these blades are in the same class IMHO.
http://www.amazon.com/Tenryu-GM-25540-Diameter-Carbide-
Cheers,
Don
J
jeff...
I like Lenox wood master C's
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