Hey folks,
Here was the previous thread that described how I procured this Bamboo plywood.
http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/showthread.php?t=50205
So the Plyboo was very flat, stable, dense, and took a 1/8" radius easing bit just fine with minimal precautions against tearout.
Due to the cost of this stuff I'm pretty sure I measured at least 5 times before making any cuts.
I have an ~ $50 delta decent blade on a 3HP grizzly and it moved through that blade with ease and only a minimum of burning.
I did a rough cut of drawer fronts to within 1/8" and then a final cleanup passes of 1/16" or so.
IIRC, I did not put the rectangles through a final jointer pass but rather went straight to the carbide 1/8" roundover to ease all edges and then finally some some light ROS to finish off.
Since all edges and faces are eye pleasing to me there is no edge banding needed anywhere.
Waterlox applied to raw bamboo.
IIRC. there are about 3 brush coats of Waterlox plus 2 wipe on/off coats. No stain of any sort.
The cabinet is about 9.5' wide so I could not match bamboo grain across the entire width of unit. You can probably tell that the left and center stack come from one sheet whereas the right stack is from a second sheet. Contemplated a random placement but that didn't look as good in my opinion. There will be a desk that somewhat obscures the right stack so I went with this layout.
On the front edge of main countertop I did a glue up for double thickness.
You will notice here that the top and bottom cores are bookmatched by simply cutting 2" wide strip off the countertop width and matching it back up to the main top surface. There was quite a bit of contemplation as to if I should indeed book match it like this or to shift the lower strip left or right a bit and make them unmatched. I chose matched. The vertical separator is a simple a 3/4 x 3/4 strip that I edge biscuited to the plywood carcass to make the front more interesting (IMHO) and to also allow me more adjustment play room in fudging the 9 drawers up/down/left/right. The Pyboo had no issues with biscuit joinery and Titebond 2.
The top (and bottoms) of the drawer edges naturally reveal the core banding when you open drawer.
You can also notice what the sides of the drawer fronts look like. Not near as interesting but certainly pleasing enough.
Full color RGB LED lighting was inlet into undersides of display dividers of the cabinet.
I placed LED tapes into 1/2" wide x 3/8" deep aluminum U channel and then screwed those U channels into dados on the undersides.
This picture is taken from low angle, normal height people don't see LED elements.
The colors are distorted due to camera and lighting and such.
The cost is about 40$ for LED tape and power supply incuding remote control with infinite color control and customizable presets.
Full Blue
Full Red
Full Green
Here was the previous thread that described how I procured this Bamboo plywood.
http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/showthread.php?t=50205
So the Plyboo was very flat, stable, dense, and took a 1/8" radius easing bit just fine with minimal precautions against tearout.
Due to the cost of this stuff I'm pretty sure I measured at least 5 times before making any cuts.
I have an ~ $50 delta decent blade on a 3HP grizzly and it moved through that blade with ease and only a minimum of burning.
I did a rough cut of drawer fronts to within 1/8" and then a final cleanup passes of 1/16" or so.
IIRC, I did not put the rectangles through a final jointer pass but rather went straight to the carbide 1/8" roundover to ease all edges and then finally some some light ROS to finish off.
Since all edges and faces are eye pleasing to me there is no edge banding needed anywhere.
Waterlox applied to raw bamboo.
IIRC. there are about 3 brush coats of Waterlox plus 2 wipe on/off coats. No stain of any sort.
The cabinet is about 9.5' wide so I could not match bamboo grain across the entire width of unit. You can probably tell that the left and center stack come from one sheet whereas the right stack is from a second sheet. Contemplated a random placement but that didn't look as good in my opinion. There will be a desk that somewhat obscures the right stack so I went with this layout.
On the front edge of main countertop I did a glue up for double thickness.
You will notice here that the top and bottom cores are bookmatched by simply cutting 2" wide strip off the countertop width and matching it back up to the main top surface. There was quite a bit of contemplation as to if I should indeed book match it like this or to shift the lower strip left or right a bit and make them unmatched. I chose matched. The vertical separator is a simple a 3/4 x 3/4 strip that I edge biscuited to the plywood carcass to make the front more interesting (IMHO) and to also allow me more adjustment play room in fudging the 9 drawers up/down/left/right. The Pyboo had no issues with biscuit joinery and Titebond 2.
The top (and bottoms) of the drawer edges naturally reveal the core banding when you open drawer.
You can also notice what the sides of the drawer fronts look like. Not near as interesting but certainly pleasing enough.
Full color RGB LED lighting was inlet into undersides of display dividers of the cabinet.
I placed LED tapes into 1/2" wide x 3/8" deep aluminum U channel and then screwed those U channels into dados on the undersides.
This picture is taken from low angle, normal height people don't see LED elements.
The colors are distorted due to camera and lighting and such.
The cost is about 40$ for LED tape and power supply incuding remote control with infinite color control and customizable presets.
Full Blue
Full Red
Full Green
