VFD inverter has given up the ghost now what help.

[Jerome B]

The VFD on my 3520A Powermatic has decided to not work after the move to the new garage. After 15 years and a move I guess it is to be expected. So the question is "What do I do Now?"

The VFD iniverter has been discontinued. In poking around the internet I see that I can buy a refurbed one straight from China. I feel a bit uncomfortable doing that. Besides I need the darn lathe for a project that is due soon. I can buy an updated version of my VFD, but I have now idea what to get. And I understand that if I get a new one it will need programming done to it. I haven't done programming since high school in 1985. Help. Suggestions.

Thank you

 

[Michael Mathews]

Before you jump to conclusions, how do you know that it's done, finished, kaput? Did you let the magic smoke out of the box? Is it showing you any codes on the display? Many times there are simple things that cause an inverter not to work but can be easily remedied. You said you moved. So is this the first time you've attempted to power up the lathe in the new place? Does the outlet have the correct power requirements?

 

[walnutjerry]

The VFD on my 3520A Powermatic has decided to not work after the move to the new garage. After 15 years and a move I guess it is to be expected. So the question is "What do I do Now?"

The VFD iniverter has been discontinued. In poking around the internet I see that I can buy a refurbed one straight from China. I feel a bit uncomfortable doing that. Besides I need the darn lathe for a project that is due soon. I can buy an updated version of my VFD, but I have now idea what to get. And I understand that if I get a new one it will need programming done to it. I haven't done programming since high school in 1985. Help. Suggestions.

Thank you

I have been wrestling with the same problem for over a month now. I called Powermatic only to find out that inverter is no longer available and PM can not sell me a replacement. It is a distributor part and you have to order from a distributor. They did give me a link to a site that you can order from but they have none in stock-----may be April before they will be available. The cost? 950.00 plus shipping. I will look for the link and try to send it to you by private message. If you come up with a solution please let me know-----I will do the same for you.
Good luck with it.

 

[Jerome B]

Before you jump to conclusions, how do you know that it's done, finished, kaput? Did you let the magic smoke out of the box? Is it showing you any codes on the display? Many times there are simple things that cause an inverter not to work but can be easily remedied. You said you moved. So is this the first time you've attempted to power up the lathe in the new place? Does the outlet have the correct power requirements?

Great questions. The new setup has the right power connections. I tested it and it is live. The VFD is dead as a door nail. And the cover that connects the programmer to the circuit board won't stay on. A puff of smoke would have been a nice signal. Being that it is 22 yrs old I am assuming that it has reached the end of it's life span.

 

[Jerome B]

I have been wrestling with the same problem for over a month now. I called Powermatic only to find out that inverter is no longer available and PM can not sell me a replacement. It is a distributor part and you have to order from a distributor. They did give me a link to a site that you can order from but they have none in stock-----may be April before they will be available. The cost? 950.00 plus shipping. I will look for the link and try to send it to you by private message. If you come up with a solution please let me know-----I will do the same for you.
Good luck with it.

I found several OEM of the VFD on Ebay but they seem to all be directly shipped from china. I don't feel comfortable doing that. I Want to be able to return it if it doesn't work.
I got the following suggestion by Keegan Watson on the facebook page for NC Woodworker. https://www.aawforum.org/community/threads/powermatic-3520b-vfd-replacement.14784/. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073WWG9BS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share The posting has the programming and the wiring for the Lapond VFD. I am thinking of trying it.

 

[blackhawk]

Do a search on the AAW forum. I believe there are a few threads on this topic over there.

 

[walnutjerry]

I found several OEM of the VFD on Ebay but they seem to all be directly shipped from china. I don't feel comfortable doing that. I Want to be able to return it if it doesn't work.
I got the following suggestion by Keegan Watson on the facebook page for NC Woodworker. https://www.aawforum.org/community/threads/powermatic-3520b-vfd-replacement.14784/. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073WWG9BS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share The posting has the programming and the wiring for the Lapond VFD. I am thinking of trying it.

I had looked on ebay also. when I looked at "about the seller" it said they did not ship internationally.

 

[Rick Mainhart]

Hi Jerome,

Some troubleshooting suggestions (based on past experience repairing VFDs):

1. Ensure the fuses are good by measuring the voltage at the load end.
2. If you have a 3-phase VFD that is running on one phase, you may well have incorrectly connected the power. Check the manual, and ensure you have connected the single phase power to the correct terminals. For general information, most VFDs require low voltages generated by a separate power supply that is connected to two of the three input phases (typically L1 and L2). If you connected either incoming power leg to L3, your low voltage power supply isn't going to run. In your case, your 240 VAC should connect to terminals "R" and "S" as shown in the installation instructions (page 28).
3. Check the operator's controls and ensure the switches work correctly and are connected as shown (again, page 28).

I don't see any OEM information on the drive ... if you can, take a few photos of the VFD with and without the front cover and perhaps a clue will show up.

Hope this helps.

Regards,

Rick

 

[Skymaster]

Just for squats; since it moved, check for loose parts or wires, then REALLy blow the heck out of it to removes any old dust,chips etc, Get a can of electronic cleaner, spray the heck out of all connections, let dry try again

 

[kserdar]

Will a Omron 3G3MX2-A2022-E inverter work as a replacement?

 

[Michael Mathews]

another thought with the age, it's possible you lost a capacitor. Do you know what a blown cap looks like? If you can identify a bad one, you might be able to un-solder it and solder in a new one. Caps don't last forever and they're the one's to go over time. If you'd like, remove the VFD and I can take a look at it for you. I'm in NW Chapel Hill right near exit 266 off 40.

 

[Jerome B]

I'm sorry that I did not get back to this thread earlier. I did not see the new responses.

 

[Jerome B]

Hi Jerome,

Some troubleshooting suggestions (based on past experience repairing VFDs):

1. Ensure the fuses are good by measuring the voltage at the load end.
2. If you have a 3-phase VFD that is running on one phase, you may well have incorrectly connected the power. Check the manual, and ensure you have connected the single phase power to the correct terminals. For general information, most VFDs require low voltages generated by a separate power supply that is connected to two of the three input phases (typically L1 and L2). If you connected either incoming power leg to L3, your low voltage power supply isn't going to run. In your case, your 240 VAC should connect to terminals "R" and "S" as shown in the installation instructions (page 28).
3. Check the operator's controls and ensure the switches work correctly and are connected as shown (again, page 28).

I don't see any OEM information on the drive ... if you can, take a few photos of the VFD with and without the front cover and perhaps a clue will show up.

Hope this helps.

Regards,

Rick

Thanks for the suggestion. I am printing the manual out as I type.

 

[Jerome B]

Will a Omron 3G3MX2-A2022-E inverter work as a replacement?

I don't know. I am going to try the Lapond VFD. I found the program directions for it.

 

[Jerome B]

another thought with the age, it's possible you lost a capacitor. Do you know what a blown cap looks like? If you can identify a bad one, you might be able to un-solder it and solder in a new one. Caps don't last forever and they're the one's to go over time. If you'd like, remove the VFD and I can take a look at it for you. I'm in NW Chapel Hill right near exit 266 off 40.

Good question. I found a not god awfully expensive replacement. I am looking at replacing the 22 yr old VFD while I have it down for repairs. Thank you for the offer.

 

[walnutjerry]

The VFD on my 3520A Powermatic has decided to not work after the move to the new garage. After 15 years and a move I guess it is to be expected. So the question is "What do I do Now?"

The VFD iniverter has been discontinued. In poking around the internet I see that I can buy a refurbed one straight from China. I feel a bit uncomfortable doing that. Besides I need the darn lathe for a project that is due soon. I can buy an updated version of my VFD, but I have now idea what to get. And I understand that if I get a new one it will need programming done to it. I haven't done programming since high school in 1985. Help. Suggestions.

Thank you

How is the lathe repair going? My son just ordered the replacement VFD for my 3520A

 

[Jerome B]

How is the lathe repair going? My son just ordered the replacement VFD for my

It worked!! The surgery worked even though the lathe had a questionable surgeon.

I followed the directions from the AAW forum thread that I posted earlier. I also watched this video

It was really helpful in understanding the programming part and to not stress over it so much.

 

[petebucy4638]

Great questions. The new setup has the right power connections. I tested it and it is live. The VFD is dead as a door nail. And the cover that connects the programmer to the circuit board won't stay on. A puff of smoke would have been a nice signal. Being that it is 22 yrs old I am assuming that it has reached the end of it's life span.

We have a 42" range that has a gas cook top and electric ovens. When the control board failed, I quickly discovered that the old board had been discontinued. It is a really nice range just to take it to the dump because the control board is not available. After a little research on the internet, I found that there is a cottage industry of small repair shops that specialize in discontinued appliance and tool electronics. I sent the defective board to one of them and for $85.00, plus shipping, they replaced the defective relays, cleaned up a couple of cold solder joints, and the range is as good as new.

Repairing component boards is not a big deal for people who work on these things, just as long as a proprietary chip has not been fried. Just like with ham radio gear, the failed parts are commonly available capacitors, relays, resistors, etc.. You might be able to find someone online who works on the board for your lathe. Just a thought!

 

[Jerome B]

We have a 42" range that has a gas cook top and electric ovens. When the control board failed, I quickly discovered that the old board had been discontinued. It is a really nice range just to take it to the dump because the control board is not available. After a little research on the internet, I found that there is a cottage industry of small repair shops that specialize in discontinued appliance and tool electronics. I sent the defective board to one of them and for $85.00, plus shipping, they replaced the defective relays, cleaned up a couple of cold solder joints, and the range is as good as new.

Repairing component boards is not a big deal for people who work on these things, just as long as a proprietary chip has not been fried. Just like with ham radio gear, the failed parts are commonly available capacitors, relays, resistors, etc.. You might be able to find someone online who works on the board for your lathe. Just a thought!

Thanks for that helpful information

 

[patlaw]

Repairing component boards is not a big deal for people who work on these things, just as long as a proprietary chip has not been fried. Just like with ham radio gear, the failed parts are commonly available capacitors, relays, resistors, etc.. You might be able to find someone online who works on the board for your lathe. Just a thought!

I do board-level troubleshooting, but there's no way to know if I can be of service without seeing the unit first. It's usually not possible to get a schematic diagram for units such as these, so there has to be a certain amount of skill and a great degree of luck to fix them. Having said that, anyone who has a problem with an electronic piece of equipment is welcome to contact me. One member contacted me about a problem with two speed controls. One was fixed, one was not.