I have not, but I think that they are a great idea for lower powered routers or router plates that don't have a large enough opening for a horizontal RP bit. I know my Freud bit barely clears my plate hole. My only concern would be keeping the work piece stable and steady on it's edge. Maybe a sled would help with that.
I used one a lot, although I was milling exterior wndow sills with it (it has a straight profile). I added a tall fence to my router setup and used feather boards. It worked well.
A Vertical Raised Panel Bit is well-suited for a router table with a fixed speed router or where the insert opening won't accept a large diameter conventional raised panel bit. However, to insure safe operation, you must use a high fence to support the vertical panel and feather boards to keep it tight to the face of that fence. I use conventional horizontal bits on my router table (it has a Milwaukee 3-1/2 HP variable speed router), but I made the sliding jig shown below for making Shaker-style panels on my table saw. The easiest method is a high fence. As an alternative you could adapt my style of sliding jig to a router table that had a miter slot on the left side away from the bit. Move your router table fence back out of the way to allow this sled to move down the miter slot against the bit from the left side so you are not climb cutting. The clamping caul will hold the panel in place and you can feed it through safely. This jig has a miter runner that can be adjusted to position the unit the appropriate distance from the blade (or bit). You could set the jig parallel by using your fence, move the fence out of the way and then raise the bit to the correct height and then slide the jig/panel past the bit. Safe way to do it so the panel stays secured.
I use them in a horizontal router table. I wouldn't recommend them in a vertical router table unless you have an extended fence, good feather boards and do light passes.