Turning Hickory

Wally

New User
Wally
I've never turned Hickory. A neighbor has Hickory cabinets and I love the figuring. How does it turn?
 

Dee2

Board of Directors, Vice President
Gene
Staff member
Corporate Member
If you get it within a week of being felled, moderately hard. If you wait longer, you may have to learn to sharpen carbide. I only use Hunter carbides tools, FWIW. They cut.

Pecan is hickory, BTW.

Looks great though.
 
Last edited:

Dee2

Board of Directors, Vice President
Gene
Staff member
Corporate Member
Hickory is like Turning, Keawe(Mesquite type tree) and Ohia.
Dee is right ! you learn to sharpen every hour or sooner ....
All are beautiful woods.
Every hour!? I sharpen more often than that on oak, elm sweet gum, maple....etc.
I did turn some eucalyptus last week and didn't sharpen at all for two bowls. I was also pretty much in a Hazmat suit.
 

petebucy4638

Pete
Corporate Member
I've never turned Hickory. A neighbor has Hickory cabinets and I love the figuring. How does it turn?
I recently turned a red oak blank that was laminated about fifty years ago. It was about as hard as any wood that I have ever worked with. Unlike a lot of woods where I could rough out the shape with less than perfectly sharp tools, I was going back to the grinder every fifteen minutes, on the finish cuts, about every seven minutes or so. On the hardness scale, red oak is 1290 and hickory is 1820. When you get above hickory in hardness, you are dealing with a lot of exotic timbers.
 

Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
Where is Locust on your hardness scale?


424CD021-B714-45CF-AF50-9E2F778D06EC.jpeg
 

smallboat

smallboat
Corporate Member
somewhere on here there is an album of photos from when I turned a bunch of hickory bowls a while back. It is hard wood but not difficult to turn. As Mike points out it finishes very smooth right off the tool. I made it an experiment to go through the entire project, I think 10 bowls, using only a bowl gouge and no sanding. I did a lot of sharpening but that was part of the motivation. Learn to sharpen and use that one tool.
 

danmart77

Dan
Corporate Member
Good luck with the hickory. I make windsor chair parts and turnings with maple. At one time I used hickory. Like the above comment about get it while its green. If you let it dry, you won't get a drill to go thru it. I turn between centers or spindle turn so my experience in different.
 

Dee2

Board of Directors, Vice President
Gene
Staff member
Corporate Member
An example for encouragement. This is pecan but you won't know the difference when turning. The bowl rim is 13.5" peak-to-peak. The foot is 7.5" diameter. Wall thickness is ~3/8". Turned this about 3 years ago.

No finish applied, yet. Sometimes I think why apply a finish.

Unknown-7.jpeg
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Dee2

Board of Directors, Vice President
Gene
Staff member
Corporate Member
That had to be some kind of fun cutting in those bowties on the side.
Cutting the bowties wasn't too bad. Kept the piece chucked on the lathe - before making the finish passes with the gouge. Lock the spindle with location at or near TDC. Hot glue a template firmly and securely to the bowl at the location where the bowtie goes. Be generous with the hot glue. Route out the mortise. Remove the template and cut the bowtie from the wood of choice. Clean up the mortise with a chisel being careful to keep everything 'square'. Slap some epoxy into the recess and place the bowtie. Clean up the squeeze out. If you use a contrasting color epoxy it sets off the bowtie. If you put painters tape around the mortise before gluing in the mortise, it makes the clean-up a bit easier, OBTW. Grind/sand down the bowtie flush with the bowl surface and finish turning the bowl. Light passes across the bowties.

Let me emphasize the template muse be attached securely to bowl - again, lots of hot glue. I recommend a professional grade hot glue gun also.
 

Craptastic

Matt
Corporate Member
Cutting the bowties wasn't too bad. Kept the piece chucked on the lathe - before making the finish passes with the gouge. Lock the spindle with location at or near TDC. Hot glue a template firmly and securely to the bowl at the location where the bowtie goes. Be generous with the hot glue. Route out the mortise. Remove the template and cut the bowtie from the wood of choice. Clean up the mortise with a chisel being careful to keep everything 'square'. Slap some epoxy into the recess and place the bowtie. Clean up the squeeze out. If you use a contrasting color epoxy it sets off the bowtie. If you put painters tape around the mortise before gluing in the mortise, it makes the clean-up a bit easier, OBTW. Grind/sand down the bowtie flush with the bowl surface and finish turning the bowl. Light passes across the bowties.

Let me emphasize the template muse be attached securely to bowl - again, lots of hot glue. I recommend a professional grade hot glue gun also.
Awesome! Thanks for the detail!
 

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