Turning between centers

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johnpipe108

New User
John Meshkoff
I dabble in bagpipe making, which is a lot like making pens. The basic premise is the same, a hole is made in a piece of wood, and the wood is then mounted on the lathe and the outside turned around the inside.

How to drive the piece on the lathe after boring was what gave me trouble over the years; I used to turn a piece with the spur center, make my endbore start on the center of the same end so it would be concentric with the spur marks, and put the bored piece back on the spur center for turning. This usually meant trimming off the end with the spur marks after turning.

Well, I was doing it the hard way :eusa_doh:; I recently read a comment by pipe maker David Quinn about turning between centers, and realized there was a much easier method for turning a hollow piece. Just mount the piece beween 60 degree centers, and let the friction of the center provide the drive!

Here is a decorative end piece for a Uilleann pipe part; it has been re-mounted here for a photo pose after finishing:

Reg-cap-btwncntrs-dscf0598.jpg


This piece started as a turning square; a 7/64" hole was drilled through and each end of the hole was prepared with a center bit and mounted as shown. It was completely turned from the square between the live and dead centers as shown. The tools have to be kept sharp, of course, and light cuts taken, but it is surprising how much force is provided by the small drive area. Since every thing is turned completely between centers, it can be removed and re-mounted with perfect concentricity every time.

This technique can be applied to many projects; pens, lamps, pipes, even tiny beads. I needed to make a small bead for a tuning pin to go with the cap; I drilled a 3/32" hole for the brass pin wire through a 1/4" square x 1/2" long piece of teak, mounted the piece between the centers and quickly turned the tiny bead. It was not necessary to center prep the ends of the small piece for this.

I now use this method for mounting the square-bored pipes I'm now experimenting with, to turn their ends round. For tapered pieces with the larger end being too big for the diameter of the standard center, I turned a larger wood cone drive-center on a screw center.

Regards, John
 

BumoutBob

New User
Bob
Hi John, Been saving this picture for you. Was at a MD sheep and wool festival in early May and these folks were there. Nice beads on that piece you showed us. What tool do you use for turning beads. I like a 3/8" sq skew. Regular ones don't work for me. There are some live centers out there that would allow you to get more clamping force and keep your centering. However you have already got a system that works.
 

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Eaglesc

New User
Eagle
Some pen turners have been doing that for finishing only leaving the bushings in.
I would be learly of the centers exerting too much pressure on the tubes and distorting the size.
Where do you buy your instrument grade blackwood?
 

johnpipe108

New User
John Meshkoff
Some pen turners have been doing that for finishing only leaving the bushings in.
I would be learly of the centers exerting too much pressure on the tubes and distorting the size.
Where do you buy your instrument grade blackwood?

Well, I've never actually turned a pen, so it is probably easier to adjust pressure on a mandrel for such a thin tube. However, for any larger/thicker tubes in hardwood, it's a good method.

I've never yet had any blackwood, but would like to at some point; I don't know where to get it or how much it costs now. My pipes are in Mexican rosewood (all my hardwood right now is from the same 25 year old collection of scraps), so I made end fittings for the finished article from the same.

Reg-baritone-evolved-dscf0591.jpg



The bead, cap-plug, and the rings near either end of this piece are from that rosewood. The plug in the aluminum tube bass bar in the background is walnut.
I think that the wood for the piece in the original post may be birch; I found that wood as a pallet skid.


Regards, John
 

johnpipe108

New User
John Meshkoff
Hi John, Been saving this picture for you. Was at a MD sheep and wool festival in early May and these folks were there. Nice beads on that piece you showed us. What tool do you use for turning beads. I like a 3/8" sq skew. Regular ones don't work for me. There are some live centers out there that would allow you to get more clamping force and keep your centering. However you have already got a system that works.

Nice! I probably don't know the piper, but he looks like someone I should!

The piece in the original post was turned with a 1/4" round nose tool and right and left hand tools. I need to take some pix of my small tools to post; I made them from files (drawn temper, shaped, hardened to straw) based on the profiles given in Holstzapfel's "Hand or Simple Turning" for hardwood turning tools.

I don't get what you mean about other live centers? There is plenty of force for turning, even with a small bearing surface, between the existing dead and live centers.

Regards, John
 
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