Triton 3 1/4 HP Router

[AlexSwansboro]

I saw, through one of you guys, that Woodcraft has the Triton 3.25 hp router on sale. I am interested in this router mostly for use as a router table router. The videos on the woodcraft website illustrate that the router can be raised and lower from above the table with the use of a crank shaft thing.

First, do any of you have this router? Second, does that crank shaft thing come with the router? Lastly, if I am building a router table, do I need to get a router table plate through which the crank shaft would go raise and lower the router?

 

[BKind2Anmls]

I have the router and it does come with the above the table crank. If you use another router plate, you will need to drill a clearance hole. It also comes with the bent wrench.

 

[AlexSwansboro]

I have the router and it does come with the above the table crank. If you use another router plate, you will need to drill a clearance hole. It also comes with the bent wrench.

Do you like the router?

 

[tryingtokeepmyfingers]

I saw, through one of you guys, that Woodcraft has the Triton 3.25 hp router on sale. I am interested in this router mostly for use as a router table router. The videos on the woodcraft website illustrate that the router can be raised and lower from above the table with the use of a crank shaft thing.

First, do any of you have this router? Second, does that crank shaft thing come with the router? Lastly, if I am building a router table, do I need to get a router table plate through which the crank shaft would go raise and lower the router?

I have the earlier version of the router and I think that adjustment is great without having the crank. It would not be a big selling point to be because it is a great router for the table anyway. I love the bit changing with one tool and the locking spindle.

 

[SteveHall]

I have one in a table. I don't use a top crank, just reach in and adjust height with the gross and fine adjusters.

It's a great router: plenty of power, great dust collection, and easy to change bits from above. I used it a few times as a hand-held and it has a smooth plunge but is a bit heavier than the 1 HP types I'm used to for hand-held.

I was expecting something less despite reading good reviews everywhere. The cheap orange plastic cover belies the quality underneath. (Quite unusual these days, usually it is the other way around!) I also couldn't understand why it was so much cheaper than the comparable big PC + lift combination that competes with the Triton's features. I thought I was missing something, but the Triton and in-built lift system have been very reliable for me for about three years.

Great router, I would buy mine again in a second.

 

[merrill77]

I've had mine for maybe 7-8 years now and I love it. When it was my only router, I used it for everything, but now I use it exclusively in the table. My version didn't come with an above-the-table crank. I've thought about upgrading, but since I like to be eye-level when making height adjustments anyway, grabbing the coarse or fine adjusters seems like it is actually easier than an above-the-table crank handle. Changing bits is really easy with the collet extended above the table and the spindle locked automatically. The safety switch lockout is a nice feature, too. I'd buy it again, especially at the current prices (IIRC I paid $280 back then).

 

[golfdad]

:eusa_dancI am the same as most of theothers...I bought mine before they had the above the table crank but you really dont need it....the 1/4 turn blade lock is killer and it has plenty of power. My worm gear went out in mine last month after several yrs of hard use...They sent me the new parts free...I didnt realize how good this router is until I had to put my old one back in for a couple weeks....

 

[Bob Carreiro]

Great router! I just ordered my 2nd one today from Woodcraft for $199 plus free shipping (sale ended yesterday, but they still gave me the sales price).

A few weeks ago, my other one bit the dust. It lived in the table. The model I had didn't have the above table height adjustment, so I coupled it with the Router Raizer. The Router Raizer blew the retaining cap off the router and it lost it's height adjustment ability. I could raise & lower it by hand and lock it into position, but "fine-tuning" the height was a struggle. So with the new one, the height adjustment is built in. And YES, you will love the auto lock when the bit is raised full height. You only need one wrench for bit changes. I've plowed out raised panels in one pass and the router didn't flinch.

Aluminum router plates are about $20.00 bucks. You'll have to drill the wrench hole, but directions come with it. It's easy.

You're gonna love this router!

 

[jamie]

I will offer a different opinion-

I have one in my table and I hate it. It came with a collet reducer rather than a different collet for 1/4" bits. No matter how tight you make the collet, the smaller bits crawl out.

 

[tryingtokeepmyfingers]

I will offer a different opinion-

I have one in my table and I hate it. It came with a collet reducer rather than a different collet for 1/4" bits. No matter how tight you make the collet, the smaller bits crawl out."

do you have the rubber grommet in the bottom that Sommerfeld sells that keeps everything from bottoming out ?

 

[SteveHall]

I have one in my table and I hate it. It came with a collet reducer rather than a different collet for 1/4" bits. No matter how tight you make the collet, the smaller bits crawl out.

Jamie, you might check to make sure you have a true 1/4" collet reducer rather than an 8mm. The Triton is made in a metric country and I seem to recall either my neighbor or I (we both have the Triton 3.25) getting a metric collet/reducer instead of the imperial out of the box. (An 8mm would almost work on a 1/4" shank if over-tightened.)

I've never had a bit slip and about half mine are 1/4" shanks.

 

[merrill77]

I will offer a different opinion-

I have one in my table and I hate it. It came with a collet reducer rather than a different collet for 1/4" bits. No matter how tight you make the collet, the smaller bits crawl out."

do you have the rubber grommet in the bottom that Sommerfeld sells that keeps everything from bottoming out ?

I also have used the 1/4" reducer many times without any problem. I make sure neither the collet or bit are bottomed out when I tighten it up.

 

[merrill77]

Aluminum router plates are about $20.00 bucks. You'll have to drill the wrench hole, but directions come with it. It's easy.

I'll point out to the OP that if you are building a new router table, then there is no need for a router plate at all when you can change bits so easily above the table. Particularly if it will remain in the table. Besides the expense, this saves a lot of time when building the router table surface. I have no plate in my current and previous tables. I tried it without the insert plate when building my second table to save a little time, thinking I'd come back and cut out the space for the insert later, but never found a need for it. When I built my current table, I left it out of my plans entirely.

 

[Bob Carreiro]

No router plate?

How do you attach the router, Chris, screw it into the top from below? How about a bit hole? One size fit all type-a-thing? Sounds interesting.

 

[merrill77]

No router plate?

How do you attach the router, Chris, screw it into the top from below? How about a bit hole? One size fit all type-a-thing? Sounds interesting.

Yup, just a few countersunk screws from above. No time wasted leveling the router plate and I never have to worry about stock catching on the edge of it. Here is a picture of the top of my table (taken in progress):

Depending on the thickness of the top, you may need to rout out an area to provide enough clearance to get a wrench on the collet above the table. My table top is 1 3/8" thick, IIRC, so you can see that I needed to do that:

I have never had a table with the reducer plates to put around the bits. So far, I've never felt a need for it. I'd be out of luck if I wanted to spin a big panel-raising bit. But I would likely go with a vertical panel-raising bit for safety, anyway.

Chris