Tool question - Straight edge for table saw top alignment

ConwayCustoms

Rory
Senior User
Hello all,

I tried searching the forum for precision straight edge, but I couldn't find anything related to what I was looking for. Maybe I was searching in the wrong location? Wouldn't be my first time...

OK.. down to business...

As some of you are aware, my replacement SawStop will be arriving very soon. Once it arrives, I'd like to precisely align the table top as best as I can.

I do not have experience with precision straight edges (Example - DIN 875-00), so I'd like to know what you think about the following:

Criteria:
24" - 36"
Under $100, if that is possible
Wanting Starrett precision without Starrett pricing :D

  1. (A little on the higher price) Amazon.com
  2. (Very reasonable price, but is it worth it) https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-25355-Inch-Straight-Edge/dp/B076ZYJPGR/
  3. (I don't really need a 3-piece, or a 50", but figured I'd put this on the list) https://www.amazon.com/Anodized-Aluminum-Straight-Straightness-Machinery/dp/B07H4235V3/

Opinions on the above, or recommendations, etc.

As always.. thank you all for your help, information, direction, etc.


Rory
 

FredP

Fred
Corporate Member
i have a starrett 48" you can borrow short term if its just a one time use thing. im between youngsville and franklinton.
 

HMH

Heath Hendrick
Senior User
I personally have a 24” straightedge from Woodpeckers.

Pretty inexpensive comparatively, but it is aluminum, so protect it. I do/ did use it to setup my TS if I recall, but didn’t obsess too much. It did reveal a couple thousands “dish” in the table of my saw that has never effected me, and I’d have never known it otherwise, but annoys me now that I DO know, so be careful there, ha.

I like the 24” for checking boards off of the jointer/ planer, where the 36” would just be a little “ unwieldy” for the smaller stuff I tend to do. Ymmv.
 

Oka

Casey
Corporate Member
I use a 24" straight edge Steel ruler and my Dial Caliper. With those 2 I can adjust it almost perfect.

My rip fence has delrin on it and it has a .002-.004 deviation front to back. But it is the plastic not the saw or the fence
 

tvrgeek

Scott
User
I don't think the wings need to be that perfect. Only the main top. I just use a cheap 6 foot level from HF to get my outfeed pretty close. For smaller stuff, I have a couple decent 18 inch steel rules, ( e-bay) and for really small stuff, some 8 inch aluminum bars that were very precisely machined. A 12 inch sped square as it will bridge the throat plate for setting 90 and 45 on the blade. Scrap wood to verify my miter gauge using a 4 cut test.

I guess a really good bar is handy to verify the machining once. I have heard of lessor brand tops being slightly warped.
 

Bas

Recovering tool addict
Bas
Corporate Member
Bas,

What length is preferred, when setting up the table saw?


Thanks!
It kind of depends on the table saw. I like the 36", but 24" would probably work too. Obviously longer is better/ more accurate, but that's tempered by the fact that longer is more unwieldly. I use my straight edge for other things as well, like checking the flatness when building my assembly table, jointer fence, etc. and the extra length helps.
 

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