Tip for fixing those dents and dings

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Mtnman

New User
Talley Pollard
I don't know about most woodworkers, but when I am building small projects that have a top, bottom, and sides, like a small counter top spice cabnet, I like to fine sand the parts before assembly and glue up.
I was doing the final assembly when the whole cabnet slipped from my hands and fell over onto a table next to my workbench and then toppled onto the floor.
Much to my dismay, there were several dents and dings in the top and side edges of the cabnet due to the fall. It was not possible to sand out the dents without changing the dimensions and ruining the look of the cabnet. Naturally I was very upset with myself for screwing up the piece.
After brooding over it for some time and trying to think of how I could fix it, I remembered reading some where that dents and dings are really just wood that has been compressed by a blow and can be restored by swelling the wood back to it's original shape.
To do this you merely put a small amount of water on the dent (I used an acid brush to apply the water) and wait. Sure enough the dents and dings came out in about 15 minutes. This probably works best in porus soft woods like pine that I was working with.
So maybe you already knew this, but I'll bet there are some that did not. I just wanted to say that it saved the day for me and I hope others can benefit from this tip.
Good luck and good woodworking! Mtnman
 

mshel

New User
Michael Shelley
Mtnman said:
I don't know about most woodworkers, but when I am building small projects that have a top, bottom, and sides, like a small counter top spice cabnet, I like to fine sand the parts before assembly and glue up.
I was doing the final assembly when the whole cabnet slipped from my hands and fell over onto a table next to my workbench and then toppled onto the floor.
Much to my dismay, there were several dents and dings in the top and side edges of the cabnet due to the fall. It was not possible to sand out the dents without changing the dimensions and ruining the look of the cabnet. Naturally I was very upset with myself for screwing up the piece.
After brooding over it for some time and trying to think of how I could fix it, I remembered reading some where that dents and dings are really just wood that has been compressed by a blow and can be restored by swelling the wood back to it's original shape.
To do this you merely put a small amount of water on the dent (I used an acid brush to apply the water) and wait. Sure enough the dents and dings came out in about 15 minutes. This probably works best in porus soft woods like pine that I was working with.
So maybe you already knew this, but I'll bet there are some that did not. I just wanted to say that it saved the day for me and I hope others can benefit from this tip.
Good luck and good woodworking! Mtnman


Tally,

As the old saying goes, "Been there done that, just don't have the "T"shirt to prove it. :lol: Stuff happens once in awhile and you just have to make the best of the sit-e-ation which it sounds like you did. Glad to see that you decided to make NCWWr's part of you life. Lots of good down home folks here and an abundance of knowledge. Look forward to seeing some of your work.

Mike
 

DaveO

New User
DaveO
That is a great tip. I will have to keep that in mind if I ever dent my wood.:lol: :lol: Thanks for sharing!

Dave:)
 

rbdoby

New User
Rick
Ain't it amazing how wood reacts to water! I learned that trick when I work in a furniture factory when I was in college. Instead of water they actually spit on the dent.
 

mturi

New User
Mark
I also read that a hot iron over the dent will help raise it. Just place a slightly damp cloth over the dent and lay the tip of the iron over it. I tried it once and it seemed to work pretty good.
 

Mountaincraft

New User
William
If it isn't finished, wet it and heat it out with an iron. It will come back. Control (somewhat) the wet part with masking tape and apply with a wet rag fragment (in contact) and allow to soak in for a time dependent on the tightness of the wood grain. Red oak 2 to 5 minutes; maple 10 to 15; ipe never. The iron doesn't need steam, the water has to be in the wood prior. A small veneering iron will do fine. Don't burn the wood to much. If finished, 10 times as careful.
 

cmartinson

New User
chad
mturi said:
I also read that a hot iron over the dent will help raise it. Just place a slightly damp cloth over the dent and lay the tip of the iron over it. I tried it once and it seemed to work pretty good.
Used to do the same thing in a cabinet shop. Works great with maple and cherry. Just a spray bottle, damp towel and a household iron. Setting it on steam is even better. Just remember not to hold still and lift & check frequently because sanding off burn marks is no fun.
 

Monty

New User
Monty
Good tip! Thanks for sharing.

Of course the water will raise the grain... I think I would wait a while until the wood is good and dry again before sanding down the raised grain. Otherwise you might end up with a small dimple again when the wood shrinks back down!
 

Steve D

Member
Steve DeWeese
Yep, got that T shirt in the drawer too.:lol: I've used the iron and damp cloth with very good results. I'm sure spittin' would work too, jest be careful bout the chawin tabaccy :lol:
 
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