Thin spindle work.

[Chaz]

I have to start production turning a 3/8" spindle, turned down from 5/8" and 12" long.

Normally I'd do something like this with a skew. I'll sharpen it on a 120 grit belt, which I find to be more than adequate in most cases. 3000 rpm.

Normally, a spindle that thin will produce a lot of chatter, and it's difficult to get the spindle straight and true. The far end will wobble all over.

I've been futzing with a sharper skew at a slower head speed. Sharpen the skew to 220-400 grit. Slow the head speed to > 1000rpm. The slower head speed will need a sharper tool. Initial test work shows far less chatter, better control, and the sharper skew peels finer and easier.

Has anybody else tried this? What did you find out?

 

[bob vaughan]

Thin, wippy spindles are a pain. I use the old time method of a leather glove on the left hand to act as a steady. It takes a little practice but it can be done. Last time I used it was when I was doing some Harry Potter wands for a themed birthday party for a granddaughter.
Lousy photos but its all I got. Hope someone does better.



I've got a dowel maker from Woodcraft that I use for long (20"±) dowels when precision is needed.

 

[Mike Davis]

Thin, wippy spindles are a pain. I use the old time method of a leather glove on the left hand to act as a steady. It takes a little practice but it can be done. Last time I used it was when I was doing some Harry Potter wands for a themed birthday party for a granddaughter.
Lousy photos but its all I got. Hope someone does better.

View attachment 220270 View attachment 220271 View attachment 220272

I've got a dowel maker from Woodcraft that I use for long (20"±) dowels when precision is needed.

Those are beautiful wands. I’m sure the kids were awestruck.

 

[Mike Davis]

When I need to turn really thin I like to start with larger stock. I use my 3/4 inch bowl gouge and start at one end, working one to two inches at a time down to finished size and never going back. A little sanding after all is turned and I’m through.

 

[Raymond]

My favorite was an oval skew sharpened up to 400 grit and turned at 1,700 rpm. I must say I never turned any less than 14 inches long if I was going that short of a work piece - I would always cut off what I didn't need from the head stock end of the work.

 

[chris_goris]

I have to start production turning a 3/8" spindle, turned down from 5/8" and 12" long.

Normally I'd do something like this with a skew. I'll sharpen it on a 120 grit belt, which I find to be more than adequate in most cases. 3000 rpm.

Normally, a spindle that thin will produce a lot of chatter, and it's difficult to get the spindle straight and true. The far end will wobble all over.

I've been futzing with a sharper skew at a slower head speed. Sharpen the skew to 220-400 grit. Slow the head speed to > 1000rpm. The slower head speed will need a sharper tool. Initial test work shows far less chatter, better control, and the sharper skew peels finer and easier.

Has anybody else tried this? What did you find out?

you say "production", how many are you producing? I would setup some sort of live tooling instead, maybe a bosch colt router and a straight cutter on a simple giude?. Take the whip out of the equation as well, slow your lathe way down and use it as more of a positioner.

 

[Wilsoncb]

Those are beautiful wands. I’m sure the kids were awestruck.

They look magical to me.

 

[bob vaughan]

Thanks for the kind words. While it wasn't 'production' turning, it was tedious and took way more time than I thought warranted for making party favors. But on the other hand, that's what we Grandpas do and generally do gladly.

 

[Chaz]

you say "production", how many are you producing? I would setup some sort of live tooling instead, maybe a bosch colt router and a straight cutter on a simple giude?. Take the whip out of the equation as well, slow your lathe way down and use it as more of a positioner.

In my shop "production" is doing several dozen items by October. That may not seem like a lot, but I also have to make several dozen of several other items. I'm using lower speed to reduce the whip and that works fine, actually. However, that comes with another problem. Using a skew, I get these, I call them "micro catches". The skew doesn't peel right. I suspect its technique and/tool - related.

I'm getting a C&S, 1" skew in the next couple of weeks. I'm wondering if a 1/2" might help

 

[Raymond]

The skew doesn't peel right. I suspect its technique and/tool - related.

I'm getting a C&S, 1" skew in the next couple of weeks. I'm wondering if a 1/2" might help

I used a 1" oval (today is referred to as a radiused cutting edge) for many years. It took me quite a while to master the skew and even afterwards there were always a few catches when my attention wondered from the task at hand. It takes a lot of practice to keep that tool and your technique sharp. Stick with the 1"skew until you master it before going to a smaller width, you will be glad you did. Don't give up, Chaz, it is well worth the effort.

 

[bob vaughan]

However, that comes with another problem. Using a skew, I get these, I call them "micro catches". The skew doesn't peel right. I suspect its technique and/tool - related.

Maybe blame the wood. I've done some repetitious turning in various woods over time and some species just pick out with a skew when doing a straight cut. Also, some growths of the same species will have gnarly fibers that dig out with a skew no matter how sharp or what profile. Osage is an example of a picky species with a skew, but there are others also. In those cases, I just have to use what's called a spindle roughing gouge and sand.

What species are you turning and do you have a sample of the profile that we could look at?

 

[Mike Davis]

I just have to use what's called a spindle roughing gouge and sand.

Is that the same as a European spindle gouge? Wide and flatter than our roughing gouge?

I bought a 30mm Robert Sorby #839H Continental Spindle Gouge like this for the baseball bats I made and found it works great for small spindles as well.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004HZ49HY?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details

 

[Chaz]

Maybe blame the wood. I've done some repetitious turning in various woods over time and some species just pick out with a skew when doing a straight cut. Also, some growths of the same species will have gnarly fibers that dig out with a skew no matter how sharp or what profile. Osage is an example of a picky species with a skew, but there are others also. In those cases, I just have to use what's called a spindle roughing gouge and sand.

What species are you turning and do you have a sample of the profile that we could look at?

If I understand your request, here is a picture of one of the items.

This is a "supported spindle" used for spinning yarn. It's about 11" x .875"


The pointy end is where the trouble lies, of course. The whip starts about half-way out. Like I mentioned earlier, lower speed - 1200 rpm max - helps. So does the skew or gouge being very sharp.
This one is Hard Maple. Most of the stock I'll be turning will be that. I also want to turn a dozen or so student-grade spindles out of poplar. I also have plans for Walnut and Purpleheart (most of our customers are women, and they LOVE stuff made out of Purpleheart).

 

[bob vaughan]

That's a tough one in anybody's book. Two finished ends doesn't help. Steadying the spindle with a gloved hand will be the best bet for those whippy sections. Practice, practice, practice. That's the only way I know of to achieve a successful outcome.

Maybe a small drill powered sanding disk to blend the bumps and grooves.

 

[pop-pop]

Maybe a small drill powered sanding disk to blend the bumps and grooves.

Sandpaper turning, the saving grace!

 

[Bear Republic]

What about creating a mini steady rest? That could help support the spindle, if it wouldn't get in the way.

 

[Chaz]

Maybe a small drill powered sanding disk to blend the bumps and grooves.

Yessir! I have a Foredom-like rotary tool from Harbor Freight that is strategically positioned near my lathe. I combine that with a 1" sanding pad and use 30mm discs for blending, smoothing and even carving. I use it all the time, mainly for smoothing and removing sanding lines.

Even with course paper, using to true takes time, and I would prefer not to have to rely on that.

I believe I mentioned that I had ordered a 1" skew from C&S. Well, it came yesterday. They use M42 HSS on their tools. It takes a very fine edge and holds it longer than other steels. It's 3/8" thick and has a 3/4" round tang. It weighs a ton. It's a beast. In spite of the weight, and once you get used to it, it's easy to control. I turned one of those spindles I'm doing and found that it works with much less whip than my Sorby. I suppose the greater mass of the tool has something to do with it.

And, of course, sandpaper. LOLz.

 

[Chaz]

Sandpaper turning, the saving grace!

But, but, but ...... isn't sandpaper cheating?

 

[Chaz]

What about creating a mini steady rest? That could help support the spindle, if it wouldn't get in the way.

That is an option I've considered.

I made one a couple years ago. It didn't work all that well. The design was wrong. I've been toying with a new design, but won't be able to really devote any real time to it until November. It should make a cool winter project.

 

[petebucy4638]

I have to start production turning a 3/8" spindle, turned down from 5/8" and 12" long.

Normally I'd do something like this with a skew. I'll sharpen it on a 120 grit belt, which I find to be more than adequate in most cases. 3000 rpm.

Normally, a spindle that thin will produce a lot of chatter, and it's difficult to get the spindle straight and true. The far end will wobble all over.

I've been futzing with a sharper skew at a slower head speed. Sharpen the skew to 220-400 grit. Slow the head speed to > 1000rpm. The slower head speed will need a sharper tool. Initial test work shows far less chatter, better control, and the sharper skew peels finer and easier.

Has anybody else tried this? What did you find out?

For thin spindle work, I use a collet chuck whenever possible. Collet chucks hold the work more securely and hold the alignment well too. There are steady rests that can help with thin work, though they add more steps to the process of turning the project.

I have turned thin stock with a skew. In this case, I would probably use a thinner skew. That said, I have had good luck turning cylinders and tapers with a very sharp spindle roughing gouge. I sharpen all my tools with a 600 grit CBN wheel. I also hone them by hand with a medium diamond stone between session on the grinder. Using a gloved hand can be very useful too. Good luck.