The Works

[tryingtokeepmyfingers]

The other week there was discussion about used "The Works" (toilet bowl cleaner) for rust remover.... I guess I should have read the warnings before using it.... I did not figure it would be as strong and dangerous as it really is... nothing bad happened but it did eat a scotch bright pad I was going to apply it with...

just want everyone to be more careful then I was.... we all hear the warnings but sometimes disregard them

so eye protection, gloves, outside in a open air environment....

I learned my lesson and hopefully I will be more careful in the future

it did remove rust from the rusty plane in no time though....

 

[MarkE]

Do you still have all of your fingers? :gar-La;

 

[DanR]

I think the folks that market "The Works" are pretty shady. If you look at the ingredients the first one listed is "Hydrogen Chloride". I have never heard hydrochloric acid referred to as "Hydrogen Chloride". It seems like they are trying to hide the fact that this stuff is HCl.

 

[tryingtokeepmyfingers]

yea I must have misunderstood in the other thread that was talking about it and someone said it was just citric acid..... maybe I bought the wrong kind

either way I will try to be more careful and I still have my fingers at this time but I did burn the tips of too of them on the espresso machine earlier today but that is a monthly occurrence I guess

 

[Mike Davis]

I would like to try this "works". :dontknow:

 

[ck1999]

It is common for toilet bowl cleaner to be made out of acid either phosphoric or hydrochloric. And from what I remember almost all HCl on these types of bottles is hydrogen chloride. I guess they think it is better since it does not contain the word acid. However, most labels do clearly market the hazards.

If you think it stinks on derusting try it on aluminum!! Actually I would not recommend doing that. However, when using to derust steel you really need to neutralize the surface or it will "flash rust" back.

Chris

 

[tryingtokeepmyfingers]

However, when using to derust steel you really need to neutralize the surface or it will "flash rust" back.

Chris

how would you neutralize it ?

and do you know of anything safer to use ? not sure I like this experience unless I have to use it again ?

 

[ck1999]

I would say with an alkaline source preferably a synthetic Corrosion inhibitor. Not sure what is on the market as far as that goes. However, I would think something like purple cleaner or something similar make SURE NOT to use anything with Sodium Hypochlorite!!!!. You mainly want to make sure you have no more free acid on the part. I am not sure what others do when refinishing planes after they derust the parts. I would say you need to try an apply what ever finish within a day or so.

HCl is used because of the speed. You can also use citric acid, probably oxalic acid, phosphoric acid, or a chelated Caustic product there is also a neutral deruster (evaporust). However, they will work slower especially at Room Temp.

I know of some people you have used evaporust and like it, but I have not ever used it.

So what I would do is

HCl <-- or other acidic deruster
water rinse
alkaline rinse
water rinse
corrosion inhibitor (if nothing else WD40, wax, etc.) or other finishing steps.


Chris

 

[Mike Davis]

Is that Baking Soda?

failed chemistry... :swoon:

 

[ck1999]

Sodium Hypochlorite is bleach

Sodium bicarbonate is Baking Soda

chris

 

[Mike Davis]

But baking soda would neutralize the acid? Safely?

 

[Glennbear]

But baking soda would neutralize the acid? Safely?

Baking soda will neutralize the acid but directly mixed will cause foaming and fumes. Chris listed the best way to do things with minimal reaction:

HCl <-- or other acidic deruster
water rinse
alkaline rinse (baking soda)
water rinse
corrosion inhibitor (if nothing else WD40, wax, etc.) or other finishing steps.